Reflections and plans for 2020

Don't you love the tradition of looking back on the sewing year that just came to an end? So let's dive into my best 5 makes, my top 5 misses, and.....o, wait. Who am I fooling? I only documented the grand total of 5 garments here in 2019!
The picture above shows what I added to my winter wardrobe, a Knipmode sweatshirt and a Knipmode designer dress. Both big hits and often worn.

And here's my summer output: a Zadie jumpsuit, a summer version of the Blackwood cardigan and a Burdastyle top. Again all incredibly popular wardrobe additions!

And, although a bit silly given the numbers, the annual pie chart sorted by pattern company.

On the upside I can celebrate a 100% success rate, but what happened to all those plans?? 

In short: life. 

As you may remember I started the year with an improved sewing room layout, a sorted stash and a new sewing machine. I was not very satisfied with my sewing in 2018 and wanted to make more adventurous choices. And I did! A year ago I could not have imagined sewing a jumpsuit and actually LIKING it. Both the plaid dress and floral top are new to me styles as I have been experimenting with different shapes.

The sewing room layout worked like a dream and after some cursing and threats to throw the new machine out of the window we became best friends. We bonded over working with many different fabrics. I sewed with sustainable fabrics from Enschede Textielstad, made a silk blouse, a linen jacket, cozy sleepwear in double knit jersey, experimented with decorative stitches and am now working on a boiled wool winter coat. My new Bernina passed every test with flying colours!

So I did in fact sew more than I showed here. But if it isn't recorded on the blog, it didn't happen.

Last year wasn't the best of years for me health wise. It's one thing to be sewing when on antibiotics or painkillers, but posing for blog pictures is something else. So one of my plans for 2020 is to deal with this this back log as soon as I can and have all my sewing notes up here, well documented and in a safe place. Those sticky notes in various notebooks drive me crazy! I hope the weather will be cooperative to take decent blog pics, and if not I do have some indoor action shots of a few of those garments that will have to do.

Of course I have a long list of sewing plans. (And too much fabric, as you didn't think I only bought fabric for five lousy projects, right?) First I'm going to pick up where I left a month ago with my winter coat. I made a muslin, altered the pattern where needed, cut all three layers and basted fashion fabric and underlining together. Somewhere in the mess that is my sewing room there must be a pile of lining pieces waiting to be marked....

When my coat is finished I hope to fill a few wardrobe gaps. I could use some summer dresses, tops, pants and sleepwear and I have a lovely fabric waiting to become a spring coat. I'll keep working on improving my sewing skills, both online in the Susan Khalje Couture Sewing Club and in real life as one of my birthday gifts is a workshop with a tailor. I'm really looking forward to that.

Here's to a wonderful and creative new sewing decade where we make all our sewing dreams come true!

A plaid designer dress

It's only the first of February and I've already matched last year's dress production! And what's more, I've made an A-line dress (last worn by me in the late 70s) and I used a plaid fabric. I've checked my wardrobe and this is officially the only plaid garment I own. So, quite adventurous for someone who made too many safe sewing choices in 2018. In retrospection I worked on automatic pilot last year and got a little bored by my own sewing. For instance, that one and only dress I made last year was my sixth version of Vogue 8379. All the more reason to do things differently this year!

 I want to try new silhouettes, work with a wide range of fabrics, colours and prints and use different pattern brands. It's been ages since I've sewn Burda or Butterick, to name a few.

And of course I'm going to sew ALL the dresses.

KM1811-21

The pattern I chose for my first dress of 2019 is a Knipmode designer dress from the 'Jurken van Janice" collection. It appeared in the November 2018 magazine and is also available online as pdf or paper pattern in European sizes 34-54 (bust 83-131 cm / 33-52 ", hips 92-138 cm / 36-54 ")

What caught my attention were the pretty design details. The bodice is cut on the bias, sleeves on the straight grain. A collar with ties and fringe at the bottom of the sleeves. There were no specifics given for the fabric that was used for the sample and I had a length of wool blend suiting that looked like a perfect match. I made a quick toile, mostly to check dart placement and to determine on the length so I had the best possible start for matching the plaid.

Everything came together well until I constructed the collar. Note to self: Shortcuts will backfire. Always include collar to test model!

Per the instructions I used lightweight fusible interfacing and the collar collapsed. I tried extra interfacing, a layer of silk organza and even a strip of horsehair canvas but the collar still looked limp, no matter what. I could make it look like the Knipmode sample for five seconds, but the slightest movement would throw the neckline off. 

I checked social media for other versions of this dress and everyone mentioned the same issue with the collar, except for sewists that were using a more firm fabric like ponte. But then of course the fabric lacked the drape needed for the bias cut bodice. 

I took the collar off and tried a few different options, like a cowl and an asymmetric collar. Nothing looked good, or in line with the rest of the design. I slept over it and then decided to go for what looked like the most obvious route. I reduced the neckline width by taking in the raglan seams and finished the neckline with bias tape and more fringe.

The dress is unlined. If I made it again I would probably use some type of very lightweight underling for the bodice, although it wears well as it is.

Making the fringe required some patience as this fabric has such a fine weave.

The threads were pulled out with a pin, right up to a line of zigzag stitches, placed to stop any further unravelling. And then I made another layer because I wanted more volume. For the sleeves I made a double strip and used it as a facing. The strips were serged together, stitched on the sleeves with right sides together and then understitched on the inside of the sleeve. A little press was enough to skip the topstitching as I liked the clean look of the pattern matched plaid and fringe.

Inside (left) and right side of the sleeve hem

Although this dress is not my usual style and I absolutely prefer brighter fabrics and some kind of waist definition, I quite like it. The plaid was a nice experiment but it feels a little too classic for me, especially when styled with pantyhose and heels. Tights, ankle boots and a chunky necklace make it work and I've already worn it for a variety of occasions. Apart from the initial collar issue it was a joy to make and the fabric was lovely to work with. 

Many thanks to Mr Foxgloves for patiently taking pictures in the snow and to the Furry Assistant for being the best support act during this production.

On to the next sewing adventure!

Casual winter wear: a half zip sweatshirt

Winter is here! And what better time to model your new sweater than during a snow shower?

When the January issue of Knipmode arrived there was one pattern that immediately attracted my attention. It reminded me of one of my all time favourite sweatshirts and I had not seen anything like this pattern in the last decade. At the same time I noticed many RTW brands carrying this type of half zip sweater, which was reassuring as apparently the style was on trend and I was not just recreating an image from the past.

KM1901-15 is online available as pdf or printed pattern in the Knipmode webshop.

Although it looks very comfortable as a dress as well (and I've seen a few pretty versions with contrasting fabric for the under collar pop up on Instagram), I really wanted a sweater version first. I'm not of fan of pockets in knits so I just cut off the pattern at my desired length.
It was easy sailing from there on, as the oversized nature and dropped shoulders meant that there were no fitting issues of any kind. The only adjustment I made was lengthening the sleeves with 5 cm, and then taking 1 cm off again after the final fitting round.

The fabric is a lovely pine green cotton knit with a brushed back. It is almost impossible to capture the shade, as inside it looks rather grey and in the garden it is, well, as green as the taxus and pines in the backdrop.

I'm pleased with the metal zipper as it provides a subtle focus point, like adding piping to the collar. This was one of the first garments sewn on my new machine and it was a perfect project to try out different feet, play with presser foot pressure and practice topstitching with the wider feed dogs. Very happy so far!

Back view

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Side view

I prefer to wear the collar open and I like the look of some of my scoop neck Concord and Plantain tees underneath. 

But when it's -8 Celsius it's nice to zip up!

Whatever the weather, happy weekend!

Review Knipmode January and February 2019 and a giveaway

Back by popular demand: the monthly review of pattern magazine Knipmode. A double edition, because although we're barely two weeks into 2019 I'm already two months behind!

Pattern overview Knipmode January 2019

The January issue offers a few winter coats, as well as jackets and cardigans.

The long camel coat comes with separate pattern pieces for a large detachable faux fur collar for a dramatic look. The line drawing for the jacket on the left (#25) suggests more of a flare in the peplum than the sample shows, something that is seen more often lately. (I just put the toile for a Knipmode blouse aside where the statement sleeve wasn't making much of a statement at all)

Plenty of useful basics in this issue, some of them are pictured in a 'seven days, seven ways' mix & match collection. Nice way of showing how to make a capsule wardrobe by choosing coordinated colours and fabrics.

This month's designer dress (21) is on trend with Victorian style pintucks, bowneck and puff sleeves. Not sure why the designer chose a busy cat print for such a detailed design?

The new quick and easy category is aimed at young beginners. The dress and hooded cardigan share the same pattern pieces and there's also a sweater version with a cowl in the mix. I like this idea of offering an easy to fit pattern with the option to learn new skills like adding pockets or a zipper on the next version.

A sleek jersey dress, a romantic skirt and high waisted stretch pants with a side zipper. All nice patterns that could be wardrobe staples when paired with the right fabric.

For me the January highlight was the sweater dress on the left. So much so that I'm already wearing it as we speak. I made a sweater version in a pine green sweater knit and that zippered neckline is wonderful.

Read on for a giveaway of the January magazine!

But first more on the February edition.

This issue seems to be in the 'love it or hate it' category. On social media readers are either saying they want to make absolutely everything, or they won't bother to take out the pattern sheets at all. 

I'm surprised by these strong reactions as so many different styles made it into this magazine.

The first impression is that of a rather sporty vibe.

A solid active wear collection. At least the accessories suggest this is meant to be worn in the gym. 

Or not?

Hybrids? The most puzzling of this lot is the dress on the right, which has a kangaroo style pocket that goes all the way from waistline to hem. Imagine your phone ringing at knee level! Not to mention diving down your skirt to track down tiny dog treats. 

And now for something completely different: Parisian chic. A classic dress, Chanel style jacket, also in a longer robe manteau version, and a silk pussy bow blouse.

And in the miscellaneous section there are several pants, tunics and skirts.

Last but not least the designer dress (21). A beautiful wrap bodice and a pretty ruched skirt.

Earlier I mentioned a giveaway. One that marks a special, albeit forgotten, occasion. 

I completely forgot to celebrate my first lustrum as a blogger! 

In September 2013 I started my blog, mostly to document what I made and as a way to remember the pattern adjustments I made. Blogging may be a wee bit more time consuming than writing on a sticky note, it's also much safer. I've never lost my project notes again!

Five years ago I could never imagine I would still be blogging today. And I certainly could not foresee how this blog would lead to meeting so many wonderful sewing friends from all over the world, both online and in real life. 

To celebrate this milestone I will send a copy of the January Knipmode magazine to one follower of this blog who is brave enough to trace, who is not easily scared by pattern pieces without seam allowances and who will fearlessly tackle that other (sorry!) minor roadblock, formed by Dutch instructions.

Just let me know if you're in for the challenge, I will send worldwide.

Your comments and support are always much appreciated. Thank you all so much for following along!

Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copies and all opinions are my own. Patterns are available as pdf or printed pattern in the Knipmode webshop. Photocredits: Knipmode

Sewing for men: a bomber jacket

Sewing menswear is one of my favourite things to do. Finding interesting patterns is often the hardest part, so I was very happy to see a men's capsule wardrobe pop up in pattern magazine Knipmode last year.
The April 2017 issue had a pattern for a bomber jacket that I wanted to make straight away. Well, sort of. It only took me 18 months to actually start ;)

KM1704-23

The pattern is still available as pdf or printed pattern here in the Knipmode webshop

When I'm sewing for mr Foxgloves I always need to make length adjustments. He is 1.96 m tall and the pattern is drafted for 1.84 m. So before ordering the zippers I made flat pattern adjustments, followed by a muslin.

The muslin gave rise to mixed reactions. On IG someone mentioned it would make a nice garment for a 80-year old, while others (including mr F) liked it. Given the lack of plaid matching - amongst other flaws - I decided that no husband of mine would be seen out in public in this garment. I had to act fast and deconstruct it immediately, as mr Foxgloves had already declared this his perfect gardening jacket.

We had a little debate about the best length for a bomber jacket, which was settled when we saw the tv weather man sport two different bomber jackets on consecutive days. We agreed that one was obviously too long, while the other version was just right.

For the outer shell I used a navy cotton twill. The jacket is half lined and there was a request for a colourful paisley lining. I searched high and low but couldn't find it. We went for a flannel plaid in matching shades of blue from the stash, but there definitely needed to be more colour on the insides. Hong Kong seam finishing was the way to go!

When you go to the trouble of sewing over 9 meters of Hong Kong seams it's nice to see the recipient appreciates your efforts!

See?

The pattern has a few nice details, like padded and quilted shoulder yokes, large pockets and a smaller zipped pocket on the left sleeve.

Except for the length adjustments and adding a hanging loop I didn't change a thing.

The tiny pocket is perfect for a bank card or some coins and is used on Saturday morning's bike run for freshly baked buns.

What more is there to say? Perhaps you're wondering about arm movement?

Check!

The back?

Yeah. When your model starts frolicking around you know the session is over.

One last one, just because.

Mr Foxgloves is very happy with his jacket and I'm planning to sew for him more often. On weekdays he's always wearing serious business attire so it's nice to have casual garments with a fun and personalized twist.

Ehm, did I mention serious business attire??

Happy holidays!

A floral peplum top

As some of you will know I'm a gardener who often disappears from the blogosphere during the summer months. Summer is for the foxgloves, winter for the thimbles. Except, this year we had what felt like a never ending summer, followed by an Indian summer, and then some more fine days. Less sewing, but lots of outdoor fun!
On one of these glorious days in early autumn we were invited to a garden party in the woods.

I always struggle when part of the dress code says casual. Casual, casual chic, business casual....Definitely not a party dress and heels, but also not my lawn mowing-type casual outfit. Invite me for a formal event and I immediately start planning and sewing an outfit, but I've been terrible at this casual stuff all my life.
For this occasion inspiration finally came from a piece of floral fabric.

A scuba knit with a pretty digital rose print on a dark navy background. It was my first time working with scuba and I did not know what to expect. Because I did not want to break up the pattern in too many places I started looking for a top with cut on sleeves.

Knipmode KM1803-12

This dolman sleeve top from Knipmode March 2018 (available as pdf) more or less fit the bill. This type of top can look massive on me, but I liked the fact that the waist seam would probably provide a hint of waist definition. I cut center front on the fold and skipped the drawstring. The line drawing suggested extra length in the front, but the pictures of the finished garment showed that the front became shorter than the back when the drawstring was used. There was hardly any extra length in the front bodice so I figured I could use that scant centimeter to serve as a tiny built-in FBA.

I did my usual 1.5 cm low neck base adjustment, made the V neck 1.5 cm higher and added 4 cm to the hem.

I mentioned it was my first time working with scuba and I can safely say it'll be the last time as well. Pressing was a nightmare! Scuba is spongy and it was not easy to get a nice and sharp V, not even with the firm use of a clapper. But the biggest disappointment was that this fabric is rather prone to snagging. Luckily I was not yet aware of that fact during the first outing of this top.

The location of the party was so beautiful. We arrived at this dreamy forest (glad I wasn't wearing heels!)

After a short walk we reached an open spot with the entrance to one of the most fabulous gardens I've ever seen. A beautiful cutting garden, a maze formed by Verbena plants, a small open air theatre, stunning ponds, sculptures and a large glasshouse. The garden once was part of an estate that was destroyed during the 1944 Battle of Arnhem. Only the foundations of the large country house remained, and part of the garden walls. Fifteen years ago a group of volunteers started restoring the garden. They did an amazing job and created a peaceful oasis on what once was a battlefield in a region where many lost their lives during airborne landings and fights for strategic bridges.

One more picture of my new top with a gorgeous backdrop of magenta Phloxes.
I always find it funny to see myself from the perspective of Mr Foxgloves, like I instantly shrink 8 inches!

It's been a long and wonderful summer, even though sewing was on the back burner.
Now, with the garden set safely stored in the shed and the chimney sweep's job done I think it's time to officially declare the garden season over and snuggle up in my sewing room.
Or? Even on the 10th of December there are still a few roses and marigolds in bloom, and I picked raspberries for lunch!

 December 10, 2018 chez Foxgloves