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Tuesday 20 August 2019

A Blackwood cardigan with 3/4 sleeves



One day I woke up with the urge to sew something yellow. Don't ask me why, as I hadn't worn yellow in ages, but I'm glad I listened to that inner voice.




This sight made me smile everytime I entered my sewing room.

The only fabric I could find in a shade that worked for me was a lightweight cotton jersey. So the fabric determined what I would make: Blackwood cardigan #5.


Blackwood cardigan by Helen's Closet

I started with big plans. The long version with trumpet sleeves, or ruffles? When I draped myself in the fabric the amount of yellow was ... overwhelming, so I decided to make the shorter version. Statement sleeves were still an option. 

I had made the shorter version twice before and did not like how the horizontal line of the wide bottom band hit me at the high hip. So the first change I made was cut the bottom band the same width as the front bands. Then I added the difference to the length of front and back bodice so the overall length stayed the same.

For the sleeves I experimented with a half circle flounce, a pleated band and a gathered ruffle, all starting just below the elbow. None of it worked. The Blackwood has rather strong and clean style lines with those parallel front bands and the 90 degrees angle with the hem band. Just doesn't blend well with a softer sleeve finish. So I made the next logical change and cut sleeve bands that had the same width as the other bands. And all of a sudden it looked like a balanced hack!




I've shared most of my thoughts about this pattern in earlier posts (Blackwood 1&2#3#4) and I like how they all look so different. This summer edition gets tons of wear. The short sleeves are very practical in the kitchen and in the garden (see top picture). Instead of a static photo shoot I'll end with a few action shots of this new favourite.  




During a city trip, with a sleeveless Ottobre top and Cashmerette Ames Jeans.




Enjoying music and Mexican food at a bluegrass festival



And in the sewing room, celebrating the first anniversary of Sewover50.

Speaking of the Sewover50 birthday, a small group of sewists was interviewed by Susan Young and I was one of them. You can read the interview here if you're interested.

That's it for now. My head is spinning with sewing plans and summer is coming back at the end of this week. No fall sewing for me yet!

Till later!

10 comments:

  1. Great jacket. I like the 3/4 sleeves. I've been sewing a lot of yellow lately and enjoying the brightness it adds to the day

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    1. Thank you. Yes, yellow is the perfect antidote to dreary days!

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  2. I always enjoy your blog, not only for the beautiful garments that you create for yourself but also your beautiful garden. The yellow jacket is perfect for you and I'm so encouraged that you were able to react to your creative inner voice. Thank you for sharing.

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    1. Thank you. On the blog the garden s just the backdrop for blog pictures. On Instagram I share a little more, like bouquets from the cuttinggarden and food from the kitchengarden.it's also my log: when I see it's 50 weeks ago that I picked the blackcurrants it is time to prepare for this year's harvest!

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  3. love the changes you made and it looks great on you!

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    1. Thank you! For the next version I'm thinking about contrasting bands.

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  4. Your cardigan is perfectly balanced. AND...the colour is so cheery!

    You've brought up such a good point...that sometimes you just need to play around with proportions and scale. And you know it, when it's right!

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    1. Thanks Sue. It was a good lesson in comparing how I envisioned things in my mind versus reality!

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  5. I love yellow too and your topper looks great on you .I like the simplicity of it..

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