Friday, 20 October 2017

Concord tee with statement sleeves



Hi everyone! Can you believe I completely forgot to write a post about my most worn garment of late summer / early autumn? Like always, it started with the fabric.




I found this wonderful eyelet jersey during an early summer sale at the fabric market. At first I wanted to make a sleeveless top but quickly decided this fabric was too good to use for a garment I could only wear incidentally during our chilly summer.

I went through my sewing magazines and although I liked the look of all patterns with statement sleeves most of them had rather high necklines. That's when I brought out my favourite v-neck version of the Cashmerette Patterns Concord t-shirt. I measured the circumference of the sleeve hem and drafted a full circle extension.
Well, maybe it had to do with the white eyelet but everytime I looked down I felt I was wearing my grandmother's lampshades.
When I redrafted the flounce to a half circle the proportions were much better.




I opted for a catch stitched hem for the bodice and narrow hand-rolled hems for the sleeves.

Apparently a white top was just what was missing in my closet as I've been wearing it as often as I could!



During our holiday in Belgium.....(best hotel carpet ever!)



While at work, interviewing the owner of a shoe shop for the local newspaper......



Partying with Joliet Jake Blues....



Getting ready for a walk in the beautiful city of Leuven....



And after said walk. Happy smile caused by the contents of that bag next to me.
Y'all guessed right. Fabrics!

Happy weekend!


Tuesday, 17 October 2017

Review Knipmode November 2017



I know, I know. I promised to keep up with the Knipmode reviews. Let's just say life got in the way. I did miss a few, although I managed to sew something from the October supplement while it was still September. Will show that in one of my next posts.
Anyway, with chaotic sewists like me in mind Knipmode decided to make the November issue the party special, giving us plenty of time to work on that Christmas outfit. Or plenty of time to procrastinate and get distracted by other shiny patterns of course.


Pattern overview


Looking at the pattern overview I was a little underwhelmed, feeling that this collection of dresses, jackets and pants could easily have been a regular collection for any month of the year. Apparently it's all about the fabric choices.





Lots of shiny jaquards, here used for a bomber jack and matching skirt. On the right the festive looking suit from the cover. Although at first sight the jacket appears to have lapels it is in fact a jacket with asymmetrical closure worn open.





On the left another version of the same jacket, now in velvet. Wrap dress with a slight a-line skirt in velours de panne, a straight skirt version of the same dress in embroidered stretch velours and a kimono style dress. I haven't seen the new fabric collections in real life so I'm really looking forward to finally do some fabric shopping tomorrow. I absolutely love velvet and I'm glad it's back!



Don't you think that jumpsuit looks stunning? Been there, done that in the 80s but I can so see my daughters in this outfit! Not sure about the dress. I think it will look lovely as a summer dress in a floral print but it's looking a rather plain in this silver stretch lamé.



This formal evening dress was a plus size reader's request. Once again Knipmode failed to use a plus size model while so many readers are begging them to do so.



Lovely use of fabrics for a jumpsuit and top in tulle with little golden polka dots and a party dress in sparkly golden jersey with a black print.



This month's designer dress is again very simple and not standing out from the rest of the collection but I do like the style. I may be tempted to make it if I can find a pretty silk.


So far my top choice from this issue is the wrap dress.


I have a, ahem, significant birthday coming up in a few weeks time. Isn't that the best excuse to make a new dress?


Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own. Photocredits: Knipmode

Thursday, 5 October 2017

The last of summer sewing?



During a brief sunny spell I finally managed to take a few pictures of my latest sewing endeavours. Warning: haste makes waste. Just remember that when you watch this blurry pics it's not your eyesight that's letting you down, it's mine. The sun caused reflections in my glasses, so I took them off. And then when I checked these pictures they looked perfectly fine to me. Gah!




See what happened? My camera focused on the roses instead of my new top.




I bought this gauzy knit fabric a few years ago because I loved the royal blue colour, but didn't really know what to do with it. It is transparent and rather clingy. Then I saw swing tops popping up all summer and I decided to hack the Cahmerette Concord pattern and add a bit of swing.
I used the midlength with my favourite elbow length sleeves, like I did in this earlier version. For that extra summery feel I changed to a double v-neck.






 I adjusted the neckband in order to make mitered v's instead of folding one end over the other.




I think I could have added a bit more width for more swing, but at least my jeans button is not poking through my top as it would have done with a regular shaped tee.

Although technically summer is over and the garden is already starting to show those beautiful autumn colours I'm still in denial. Luckily the 'no white after Labor Day'-rule doesn't apply here since our Labour Day is on May 1st!




Whatever your season looks like, happy sewing!

Edited to add that the white jeans were refashioned. They had been hanging in the back of my closet for years because the waistband was a bit tight and the legs were somewhere in between flared and straight. I slimmed the legs below the knee and used the extra fabric to insert tiny triangles in the waistband. I'm very pleased with the result, well worth the effort!

Saturday, 2 September 2017

Review Knipmode August 2017



The August issue of Knipmode can best be described as the pre-fall collection. Brrr, fall? It feels like summer still hasn't started properly in The Netherlands. It's been a strange season so far!





What's new? All patterns shown in the magazine used to be included on the tracing sheets. But not anymore. Three patterns, the ones marked with the red and and purple dot, have to be downloaded as pdf, free with a code included in the magazine.

It looks like Knipmode is hoping to spark more interest in their pdf patterns, which I can understand. But it's my opinion that by doing it via the magazine they're barking up the wrong tree.

Traditionally Dutch sewists are tracers. My grandmother traced, my mom traced and now my daughters also trace their patterns. Pattern magazines are available in most supermarkets and bookshops and they're cheap. A single copy of Knipmode will set you back 7,99 euro for about 25 new patterns. My subscription costs only 3 euro per magazine. Even when there's nothing in the magazine that I want to make I consider that 3 euro money well spent as I like to read about trends, look at new fabric collections and accessories.
The price of a single pdf pattern is 4,95 euro. Very reasonable, compared to the prices of other pattern companies. But compared to the price of the magazine it is steep.
I have never bought a Knipmode pdf and it's not likely I will do so as long as the magazine is around.

I do buy pdf patterns from companies in Australia and the US. No postage and instant gratification makes it worth my while to go through the tedious printing and taping process. I can absolutely see how that could work the other way around and sewists from other parts of the world would love to buy Knipmode pdf's instead of waiting for the magazine to arrive.
 I contacted Knipmode two years ago to inform them about the growing amount of messages I got from sewing friends all over the world who couldn't find their way around the Knipmode website. It is rather difficult to order a subscription or pattern when you don't speak Dutch. Wouldn't it be wise to make an English version of the website? I never got an answer to this email. Typical. Lately Knipmode is spending money on nondescript vlogs in Dutch, excluding foreign sewists even more.
The recent launch and blogtour of the English edition of Belgian pattern magazine La Maison Victor got a lot of attention in the online sewing world. Maybe it's time for Knipmode to reconsider the navel gazing and start making the site and shop more user friendly for those of you that would love to try the patterns but are discouraged by the Dutch language.

In the meantime Dutch readers are not impressed by Knipmode's move. I've seen comments by readers saying they don't have access to a printer, others don't consider the pdf's free because of the cost of toner and paper. The editoral staff insists the free pdf's are extra patterns that couldn't be placed on the tracing papers. Fact checking: the August 2016 magazine contained 26 patterns. August 2017: 25 patterns + 3 pdf + 1 knitting pattern, At first glance there are indeed more patterns, however, some are just different views of the same model. Obviously top 2 is a shorter version of dress 1 and as far as I can see the only difference between trousers 3 and 4 are the pockets, to name a few.
We'll see how this evolves.

On to the collections!


A classic collection in ivory and camel. From left to right cardigan 13, dress 15 and and jacket 7, skirt 12 and top 24. I do like the seam lines of dress 15, although the details are hard to see.




Another version of dress 15, skirt 20 and top 2 and dress 18. More on top 2 later on.



Jacket 5 (left) has an interesting collar and asymmetric zipper. As much as I like the look, I do have some reservations about this pattern. The jacket is unlined, which I don't find very comfortable to wear considering it's made of faux leather. When you take a close look at the dress in the middle you can see that it's made from the same pattern. I don't know about you, but I like my jackets to have more wearing ease than my dresses! Trousers 10 (on the right) are on my shortlist.


This month's designer dress looks nice and trendy, but again very simple.



I've seen some lovely versions of dress 23 pop up on social media. I expect this dress to show up soon on the blog of my Bavarian sewing pal Chris at https://handmadebychris.wordpress.com/



At the beginning of the year I set myself a challenge to sew more Knipmode patterns. At the moment I'm experimenting to improve the bodice fit. Knipmode drafts for a B-cup, which means I need a serious FBA as I'm wearing a H-cup. I'm considering making pattern adjustments to these three tops, from left to right top 2, top 17 and top 24. The first one is a knit pattern, the other two are for woven fabric. With horizontal darts, diagonal seams and shoulder pleats these patterns all need a different FBA approach.



So far I finished a muslin of top 2. Not too bad, but a little snug. I'll check again when I've had more time to deal with the inevitable extra pounds I took home from my culinary Belgian holiday.

To be continued!


Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own. Photocredits: Knipmode


Thursday, 20 July 2017

Review Knipmode April, May and June 2017


At the beginning of spring I stopped reviewing new Knipmode magazines. For no particular reason, other than being busy. Recently there were few signs that people might be missing these reviews. In a discussion at the Curvy Sewing Collection site it was mentioned that there used to be much more information on pattern magazines available before bloggers shifted from blogging to Instagram. I decided to check the stats for my blog to see if anyone was actually reading my reviews. Guess what?  This week alone over 250 people read the old post about the August 2016 issue, I presume most of them were looking for news about August 2017. The biggest surprise of all was the number one search entry: книпмоде. Coming from a Russian sewing forum. Hi there!
So I thought I might do a quick recap of recent months to see what's new. Today it's April, May and June, later this week July and August. All patterns can be downloaded as pdf here.


The regular April issue had some useful patterns, but nothing that really caught my eye. One of the new trends: lingerie inspired tops and dresses. What do you think? I'm afraid it will make me look like I've lost my marbles and forgot my dressing routine. Does a slipdress worn over a shirt become a dress?


My favourite item in this issue was again the menswear. This pattern is already traced to make for mr Foxgloves in a wonderful navy twill.

Bomber jacket

The April supplement was a bridal special, containing a three piece bridal gown and several pretty dresses for wedding guests.

Dress, overskirt and top

Colourful and summery dresses for all guests, except for the poor mother of the bride who is all buttoned up in beige.




May was the month we'd all been looking forward to ever since Knipmode announced a new designer collaboration. De jurken van Janice (dresses by Janice) is a new monthly feature. The dresses are accompanied by an instruction video on the Knipmode YouTube channel. Ready for the first 'designer dress'?


Not a top notch first impression, to put it mildly. The only thing distinguishing this dress from a regular Knipmode pattern is the use of a finer fabric. (The feature is sponsored by a higher end fabric shop). In fact this dress looks like a simplified version of for instance dress # 1 from April (check the pattern overview above). The designer tells us this dress was inspired by the 30s charleston style. Blahblahblah. Curious to see where this is going.

The rest of the May issue has a patriotic vibe with red, white and blue, tulips and orange. Both the colour and the House of Orange as once again a collection is inspired by Queen Maxima.






June was all about dresses. The bodice of dress 5 (below in orange, second from the right) has interesting seam lines. The pink dress on the left (14) is not an A-line dress but has a waistband behind the models arm.



One of the benefits of delayed reviews is seeing some of these patterns pop up in the blogosphere.
Camelia made a lovely version of the dress on the left (#10), you can find her blogpost here


June designer dress
The designer dress (26) looks somewhat more interesting than last month's, but apart from the slightly more glamorous styling it's not really different from the rest of the dresses in this issue.

All patterns come in EU sizes 34-54, except for the bikinis

Polo shirt
Menswear comes in European sizes 46-58 and is drafted for a height of 184 cm.

Well, that was a long and picture heavy post! Another catch up post will follow soon and then it's back to monthly reviews. And sewing of course! I have a few unblogged items waiting for pictures but unfortunately my iron broke down and I'm not ready for a wrinkle fest.
To be continued!

Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own. Photocredits: Knipmode