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Thursday, 17 January 2019

Review Knipmode January and February 2019 and a giveaway



Back by popular demand: the monthly review of pattern magazine Knipmode. A double edition, because although we're barely two weeks into 2019 I'm already two months behind!


Pattern overview Knipmode January 2019

The January issue offers a few winter coats, as well as jackets and cardigans.



The long camel coat comes with separate pattern pieces for a large detachable faux fur collar for a dramatic look. The line drawing for the jacket on the left (#25) suggests more of a flare in the peplum than the sample shows, something that is seen more often lately. (I just put the toile for a Knipmode blouse aside where the statement sleeve wasn't making much of a statement at all)

Plenty of useful basics in this issue, some of them are pictured in a 'seven days, seven ways' mix & match collection. Nice way of showing how to make a capsule wardrobe by choosing coordinated colours and fabrics.



This month's designer dress (21) is on trend with Victorian style pintucks, bowneck and puff sleeves. Not sure why the designer chose a busy cat print for such a detailed design?



The new quick and easy category is aimed at young beginners. The dress and hooded cardigan share the same pattern pieces and there's also a sweater version with a cowl in the mix. I like this idea of offering an easy to fit pattern with the option to learn new skills like adding pockets or a zipper on the next version.



A sleek jersey dress, a romantic skirt and high waisted stretch pants with a side zipper. All nice patterns that could be wardrobe staples when paired with the right fabric.



For me the January highlight was the sweater dress on the left. So much so that I'm already wearing it as we speak. I made a sweater version in a pine green sweater knit and that zippered neckline is wonderful.


Read on for a giveaway of the January magazine!


But first more on the February edition.




This issue seems to be in the 'love it or hate it' category. On social media readers are either saying they want to make absolutely everything, or they won't bother to take out the pattern sheets at all. 
I'm surprised by these strong reactions as so many different styles made it into this magazine.
The first impression is that of a rather sporty vibe.



A solid active wear collection. At least the accessories suggest this is meant to be worn in the gym. 
Or not?



Hybrids? The most puzzling of this lot is the dress on the right, which has a kangaroo style pocket that goes all the way from waistline to hem. Imagine your phone ringing at knee level! Not to mention diving down your skirt to track down tiny dog treats. 




And now for something completely different: Parisian chic. A classic dress, Chanel style jacket, also in a longer robe manteau version, and a silk pussy bow blouse.




And in the miscellaneous section there are several pants, tunics and skirts.

Last but not least the designer dress (21). A beautiful wrap bodice and a pretty ruched skirt.





Earlier I mentioned a giveaway. One that marks a special, albeit forgotten, occasion. 
I completely forgot to celebrate my first lustrum as a blogger! 
In September 2013 I started my blog, mostly to document what I made and as a way to remember the pattern adjustments I made. Blogging may be a wee bit more time consuming than writing on a sticky note, it's also much safer. I've never lost my project notes again!

Five years ago I could never imagine I would still be blogging today. And I certainly could not foresee how this blog would lead to meeting so many wonderful sewing friends from all over the world, both online and in real life. 

To celebrate this milestone I will send a copy of the January Knipmode magazine to one follower of this blog who is brave enough to trace, who is not easily scared by pattern pieces without seam allowances and who will fearlessly tackle that other (sorry!) minor roadblock, formed by Dutch instructions.


Just let me know if you're in for the challenge, I will send worldwide.
Your comments and support are always much appreciated. Thank you all so much for following along!


Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copies and all opinions are my own. Patterns are available as pdf or printed pattern in the Knipmode webshop. Photocredits: Knipmode







Saturday, 5 January 2019

Five changes that will affect my sewing in 2019



This is what my sewing room looked like at the beginning of 2018. Many things have changed, both in- and outside the sewing room and these changes will all affect my sewing in the coming year.

I'm not much of a planner so I thought that instead of doing a #makenine or show a list of patterns I want to make any time soon I'd tell more about those small and not so small changes to picture the context of my sewing choices for 2019.

#1 Changing the layout of my sewing room



At the beginning of the year mr Foxgloves helped me create a cutting table by changing the legs of one of my tables for Ikea Skarsta sit/stand height adjustable legs. More on that here.
This makes me more productive as my back doesn't need a few days to recover from tracing or cutting.

What else could be improved? I'd been using this room for six years and I decided it was time for a comprehensive evaluation. I started by moving the furniture around.



The L-shape worked much better! I always thought I wouldn't like looking at a wall but I was wrong. It feels like my workspace has doubled, since I can use the cutting/handsewing table for extra bits and bobs while I'm sewing.



I also moved my sewing books. They were out of reach behind the ironing board, not the best place for easy access. So I moved some wooden boxes with older pattern magazines to that spot and now have my reference books right where I need them. It only took me six years to come up with this brilliant plan.

Next. Well, you can't overhaul the sewing room and ignore the fabric collection, right? So I took everything out.

#2 Sorting and measuring my fabrics



Back in the days when the systems weren't as refined as they are now, I had my colours done and one of the things I took away from that was that blue was a good colour for me. Over the years I bought all kinds of blue fabric. I loved them all, but they didn't all love me back. I found out the hard way when 100+ hours of handsewing on a Chanel jacket ended in a garment that looked better on the hanger than it did on me.

Last year I scheduled a new appointment with a colour consultant who asked me to bring a few garments. I bended the rules a little by bringing a suitcase of potential garments in the form of fabrics. She had never had a dressmaker come in for a consult before and we had some interesting discussions about the freedom to create your own style and the challenges that come with making a garment from scratch. She acknowledged it was a waste of precious sewing time to work with fabrics that did not fully suit me and we tackled that suitcase, one piece at the time. At the end of the day I knew the distinction between warm and cool blue, muted, bright and dark blue and what worked for me and what didn't. And of course I learned a lot about other colours, colour depths and levels of contrast as well.

I used my newfound knowledge to sort my stash. I put fabrics aside to use for toiles and donated a few pieces to friends with different colourings. Some of these fabrics had been there for two decades and I knew I'd never use them. Can you picture me in beige? Me neither.

While all the fabrics were out of storage I thought I might as well measure everything before it went back into the closet. I now have a binder with swatches, lengths and other relevant information of all pieces. After 42 years of collecting fabrics the penny finally dropped.




My fabric cabinet is an old baby dresser that is 60 cm deep. I fold the fabrics over a piece of cardboard to make the best use of the limited space.




The curated collection. Not perfect yet, but slowly getting there. (These are all woven fabrics, there's also a smaller cabinet with knits)


#3 Joining Susan Khalje's Couture Sewing Club

Then, at the end of the summer, I realised I didn't challenge myself enough sewing wise. As nice as it is to have well fitting tees and cardigans in my wardrobe, making them hardly gives me a sense of accomplishment. I wanted to learn new skills and make better use of the skills I already have. Right at that time Susan Khalje launched her Couture Sewing Club. I jumped on board immediately!




So far it's been wonderful to be part of this group and I have learned a lot, both from Susan and from other members. The reason I have not started my first project, a couture skirt, has to do with yet another set of changes.


#4 Weight loss

In July I made a few lifestyle changes. As a result I have lost over 10 kg/22 lbs during the second half of 2018. Although I don't think I look that different, I can go in and out of my jeans without using the zipper. I have put off using my best fabrics for a while, but now I really need to make a few things that don't fall down when I move. The question is: will I make a fitted skirt, at least one that fits temporarily, or shall I wear wrap dresses until I know where my waist measurements will end?


#5 A new sewing machine

While I couldn't decide on what to make next I made another big change, at least for me it is. After sewing on my (mechanical) Bernina 1030 for 31 years I bought a new Bernina 570 QE.



Here she is, right after the unboxing ritual. Protective plastic and all, oops.
It's my first computerized machine, and there most definitely is a learning curve. We gave each other the side eye more than once, but after a few weeks I can say we're bonding.




I've made a start on creating a stitch library and am now exploring the endless possibilities of this beautiful machine. Dual feed, adjustable and automatic presser foot pressure, the pivot/hover function, it's all new to me. I'm working my way through the manual and I found a workbook and plenty of videos online, which is a nice way to get acquainted with this machine at my own pace. My dealer suggested I'd schedule my lessons at a later time so we wouldn't waste one-on-one time on the basics that I could easily find out myself. Sound advice! I'm creating a little list with subjects I'd like to delve in deeper during my lessons. I will write a sewing machine review, as some of you have asked for on Instagram, in a few weeks time when I hopefully master all ins and outs.

Now how will all these changes influence my 2019 sewing plans?

With the improved sewing room flow, sorted stash and new machine everything is ready for action!
The weight loss means I need to take in my clothes where possible and start building a new wardrobe later on. Ideally I'll alternate quick and practical projects to fill wardrobe gaps with more involved projects and I aim to use couture techniques on a few timeless pieces.

I'm really excited about this new sewing year!


Monday, 31 December 2018

My year in patterns



This is what my sewing year looks like in line drawings. The bare bones of what I made.

It's interesting for me to look back on this very last day of the year as what I made is always a reflection of what my year looked like. I sew what I wear and I wear what I sew.
So if I made sleeveless tops that's a sign of a warm summer, or a holiday in southern Europe (actually both, in 2018) No new evening wear or party dresses means there were few formal or festive events this year. No coats, as my winter coats were still in good shape and I barely wore coats during summer.

In 2018 I made twenty garments. Nineteen for me, one for mr Foxgloves.
Let's take a closer look. I won't bore you with a ton of links but if you want to go to the original blogpost you'll find the links on the top of this page under 'Sewn'.



Clockwise:
1) a pink Knipmode sweater (KM1801-25) with a lovely neckline. It's soft, warm and comfortable and I wear it a lot.
2) The black midi skirt Knipmode KM1711-08) is not worn that often, but it's a timeless classic and good to know it's there I want something dressy.
3) A pair of black Cashmerette Ames Jeans. It initially had wrinkles at the back of the leg, an issue that was fixed by taking the legs apart (imagine ripping serged-stitched-topstitched seams, all black on black), reducing the length of the back leg above the knee and adding the same amount at the hem. Worked incredibly well, worn very often.
4) Simplicity 1563. Very happy with the decision to line this robe with satin. Feels luxurious and I've worn it every morning, except during heatwaves. By far the most worn garment of 2018!




5) McCalls 6436, a button down shirt in viscose. No gaping at the bust, by far the best fitting shirt I've owned in the last decade. Note to self: make a plain version next year.
6/7) Two Helen's Closet Blackwood cardigans. Wardrobe staples.
8) A Cashmerette Concord Tshirt hack. V neck in the front and back with ties. An absolute summer favourite. The only downside: the rayon knit is growing and the shirt got longer and longer with each wear. I need to take up the hem when it comes out of winter storage.
9/10) Two knit tops from Ottobre 2/2014. The tops are lined, which gives them a very clean finish. Both tops are mostly worn under jackets or with a cardigan, perfect layering pieces. If I make them again I will alter the armholes and go down a size.



11) Vogue 8379. A wrap dress in a loud floral print. Definitely a winner!
12) A breezy blouse, Knipmode KM1708-24. Can't wait for the first sunshine to wear this again.
13/14 Two Helen's Closet Blackwood cardigans. The pink version is the least succesfull of the four I have made this year. The cotton jersey has barely enough stretch for the pattern. The emerald version is the best of the lot. Lovely colour that goes with everything and a super leightweight drapey rayon.
15) Fail! Nice Knipmode pattern, peasant blouse KM1803-103, beautiful broderie Anglaise in the most perfect royal blue. Just not a winning match between pattern and fabric.



16/17) Two renditions of the Cashmerette Concord T-shirt. A nightgown, finished with lingerie elastics. A refashioned blue and white tee with elbow length sleeves. Both in heavy rotation.
18) A navy Deer and Doe Plantain shirt. Very basic, very useful around the house.
19) Menswear! A Knipmode bomber jacket (KM1704-23). Mr F likes it, but due to my unseasonal finishing of this light summer jacket in late autumn it did not get much wear so far.
20) A peplum top, Knipmode KM1803-12. Nice pattern, lovely print but sadly the fabric is not wearing well as it is prone to snagging and pilling.


All in all a rather succesfull year with one fail out of 20 garments, and two cases of disappointing fabric. All garments but one (the failed peasant blouse) have been worn often or very often or probably will be worn often in the right season. In addition to the 19 items I've sewn for myself I only bought one pair of RTW jeans.

To keep my wardrobe balanced it's good to look at what I did NOT sew this year. I already mentioned the lack of coats, also no jackets for me. Next year I need a new winter coat and I can certainly use a few jackets. With just a single dress and a single skirt sewn in 2018 I'm looking forward to sewing more skirts and dresses next year! 

It's only a few years ago that I started sewing with knit fabrics on a regular basis. Things have changed, his year the knits are winning.



And finally some statistics for the patterns I've used:


O dear, that's not adding up to 20! Knipmode should be 6, but it's New Year's Eve and the traditional 'oliebollen' are waiting for me so this will have to do.

Thank you all for following along and for your support, helpful tips and wonderful comments.
Being part of this worldwide sewing community has truly broadened my horizon!

Happy New Year!



Friday, 21 December 2018

Sewing for men: a bomber jacket



Sewing menswear is one of my favourite things to do. Finding interesting patterns is often the hardest part, so I was very happy to see a men's capsule wardrobe pop up in pattern magazine Knipmode last year.
The April 2017 issue had a pattern for a bomber jacket that I wanted to make straight away. Well, sort of. It only took me 18 months to actually start ;)


KM1704-23

The pattern is still available as pdf or printed pattern here in the Knipmode webshop

When I'm sewing for mr Foxgloves I always need to make length adjustments. He is 1.96 m tall and the pattern is drafted for 1.84 m. So before ordering the zippers I made flat pattern adjustments, followed by a muslin.






The muslin gave rise to mixed reactions. On IG someone mentioned it would make a nice garment for a 80-year old, while others (including mr F) liked it. Given the lack of plaid matching - amongst other flaws - I decided that no husband of mine would be seen out in public in this garment. I had to act fast and deconstruct it immediately, as mr Foxgloves had already declared this his perfect gardening jacket.

We had a little debate about the best length for a bomber jacket, which was settled when we saw the tv weather man sport two different bomber jackets on consecutive days. We agreed that one was obviously too long, while the other version was just right.




For the outer shell I used a navy cotton twill. The jacket is half lined and there was a request for a colourful paisley lining. I searched high and low but couldn't find it. We went for a flannel plaid in matching shades of blue from the stash, but there definitely needed to be more colour on the insides. Hong Kong seam finishing was the way to go!




When you go to the trouble of sewing over 9 meters of Hong Kong seams it's nice to see the recipient appreciates your efforts!


See?

The pattern has a few nice details, like padded and quilted shoulder yokes, large pockets and a smaller zipped pocket on the left sleeve.






Except for the length adjustments and adding a hanging loop I didn't change a thing.




The tiny pocket is perfect for a bank card or some coins and is used on Saturday morning's bike run for freshly baked buns.

What more is there to say? Perhaps you're wondering about arm movement?




Check!

The back?



Yeah. When your model starts frolicking around you know the session is over.

One last one, just because.




Mr Foxgloves is very happy with his jacket and I'm planning to sew for him more often. On weekdays he's always wearing serious business attire so it's nice to have casual garments with a fun and personalized twist.

Ehm, did I mention serious business attire??




Happy holidays!



Tuesday, 11 December 2018

A floral peplum top




As some of you will know I'm a gardener who often disappears from the blogosphere during the summer months. Summer is for the foxgloves, winter for the thimbles. Except, this year we had what felt like a never ending summer, followed by an Indian summer, and then some more fine days. Less sewing, but lots of outdoor fun!
On one of these glorious days in early autumn we were invited to a garden party in the woods.

I always struggle when part of the dress code says casual. Casual, casual chic, business casual....Definitely not a party dress and heels, but also not my lawn mowing-type casual outfit. Invite me for a formal event and I immediately start planning and sewing an outfit, but I've been terrible at this casual stuff all my life.
For this occasion inspiration finally came from a piece of floral fabric.




A scuba knit with a pretty digital rose print on a dark navy background. It was my first time working with scuba and I did not know what to expect. Because I did not want to break up the pattern in too many places I started looking for a top with cut on sleeves.


Knipmode KM1803-12

This dolman sleeve top from Knipmode March 2018 (available as pdf) more or less fit the bill. This type of top can look massive on me, but I liked the fact that the waist seam would probably provide a hint of waist definition. I cut center front on the fold and skipped the drawstring. The line drawing suggested extra length in the front, but the pictures of the finished garment showed that the front became shorter than the back when the drawstring was used. There was hardly any extra length in the front bodice so I figured I could use that scant centimeter to serve as a tiny built-in FBA.

I did my usual 1.5 cm low neck base adjustment, made the V neck 1.5 cm higher and added 4 cm to the hem.




I mentioned it was my first time working with scuba and I can safely say it'll be the last time as well. Pressing was a nightmare! Scuba is spongy and it was not easy to get a nice and sharp V, not even with the firm use of a clapper. But the biggest disappointment was that this fabric is rather prone to snagging. Luckily I was not yet aware of that fact during the first outing of this top.

The location of the party was so beautiful. We arrived at this dreamy forest (glad I wasn't wearing heels!)




After a short walk we reached an open spot with the entrance to one of the most fabulous gardens I've ever seen. A beautiful cutting garden, a maze formed by Verbena plants, a small open air theatre, stunning ponds, sculptures and a large glasshouse. The garden once was part of an estate that was destroyed during the 1944 Battle of Arnhem. Only the foundations of the large country house remained, and part of the garden walls. Fifteen years ago a group of volunteers started restoring the garden. They did an amazing job and created a peaceful oasis on what once was a battlefield in a region where many lost their lives during airborne landings and fights for strategic bridges.






One more picture of my new top with a gorgeous backdrop of magenta Phloxes.
I always find it funny to see myself from the perspective of Mr Foxgloves, like I instantly shrink 8 inches!

It's been a long and wonderful summer, even though sewing was on the back burner.
Now, with the garden set safely stored in the shed and the chimney sweep's job done I think it's time to officially declare the garden season over and snuggle up in my sewing room.
Or? Even on the 10th of December there are still a few roses and marigolds in bloom, and I picked raspberries for lunch!

 December 10, 2018 chez Foxgloves