The continuing story of a French jacket

Fifteen months ago I took a break from working on my French jacket. It was meant to be a spring/summer jacket and once I had missed the time slot other sewing projects seemed more urgent. The jacket was carefully packed away in a box, together with thread, chain and every bit of leftover fabric. I hoped to pick it up again last March, but by then coral coat fabric had taken over my sewing room. Fast forward one year and the French jacket is back on top of my sewing list!

This is where I left it. Bodice seams were closed, sleeves cut and ready to be constructed. Once that's done it will be time to make a few design choices. I'm considering several neckline options and I'm still not sure whether I want patch pockets or not. Whenever I'm thinking about the different options I feel like I can't choose properly without envisioning the overall picture. And for that I definitely need to decide on the trim.

The jacket may have been out of sight for fifteen months, it was often on my mind. I experimented with the selvedges, used different fibers for crochet and visited haberdashery shops during the quest for the perfect trim. Wherever I went, from Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Utrecht to Liege, Edinburgh, Prague and Bratislava, I always had a quilted square of boucle in my handbag. No luck. Navy looked boring, white was either too white or too yellow-ish, mixing navy and white resulted in a overly classic look. If only I had enough fabric left to make fringe!

The more I thought about it, the more I realised I'm probably more in love with the lining than with the main fabric. And then I remembered the Chanel ensemble I admired two years ago at an exhibition in The Hague.

What if  I incorporated a tiny strip of that colourful lining in a trim? My fabric isn't as loosely woven as the example fabric, maybe layering will work?

Since last week my options doubled. Can you believe my luck when I unexpectedly stumbled upon a bolt of the same boucle? I had last seen that fabric for sale in 2014 and back then it sold out fast. I quickly bought enough to start experimenting with fringing bias strips as well!

Lots of things to try out during the upcoming long weekend!

Bootstrap Fashion 42379, a cowl neck knit top

Although I was planning to work on a more challenging project, a chain of events made me change my sewing plans. More on that later. I needed a simple project, made from stash fabric as there was no time for fabric shopping. Maybe it was finally time for spring sewing? But then it started to snow again and I brought out a lacy wool knit fabric. Now what to make? While looking for a pattern I ended up at the Bootstrap Fashion website. For those of you not familiar with this brand, amongst a lot of other services Bootstrap offers custom fit sewing patterns. You enter your measurements and about ten minutes later you can pick up a made to measure PDF pattern from your inbox.

This cowl neck pattern came close to what I was looking for, except for the sleeve and hip bands. Not very hard to make a few changes and browsing the Bootstrap site made me want to try the patterns. I entered my height and measurements for bust, underbust, waist, hip, upper arm as well as fit adjustments like bust apex height, arm length, shoulder width and more.

The line drawing was the only image available. No artist's impression, and as far as I could see no one ever mentioned Bootstrap 42379 on the internet. So if there's only one image, it'd better be correct! 

Enter confusion. The line drawing shows a center back seam, which is nowhere to be found in the layout picture. To get an idea of the depth of the neckline I checked the red pattern piece above. It suggests the lowest point of the neckline is at the same height as the bottom of the armscye. Nice! 

After printing and assembling the pattern I was in for a surprise. No center back seam, and the back bodice pattern was much wider than the front bodice. I carry most of my weight on the front, and the 3D-illustration of my torso (gulp) showed I'd been very honest when I entered my measurements. What happened? Was the back seam planned but later omitted, without removing the seam allowances? Nope, the notches of the cowl seemed to match fine! 

Speaking of the cowl: the neckline was 7 cm higher than the layout image suggested. And wasn't that cowl on the tiny side? I warily started sewing. 

Hmmm. I made a test cowl from a scrap of jersey. Just as I thought, not very impressive.

And certainly not looking like the line drawing. 

So I changed the finished height of the cowl from 14 to 34 cm. Why 34? That was all I got ;)

Better! Now what about the fit? I had to remove 6 cm at the hip, the shoulders are a bit too wide and although I added the equivalent of the length of the removed hip band to the bodice the overall look is shorter, and certainly less fitted than the line drawing suggested. 

So what's the verdict about the pattern? It doesn't look like the line drawing. The bodice, shoulders and sleeves are too wide for a fitted top, the cowl (before my adjustments) looked like a droopy collar and I don't like seams showing up in the line drawing that are not in the actual pattern. There is no way to tell if the pattern was meant to look oversized and the line drawing was off, or the drawing was right and the pattern was off. 

In the end I do like the result but I feel that has more to do with the pretty fabric than with the pattern.

Bootstrap has not convinced me yet, but now that I've made an account and saved my set of measurements I may try some patterns for woven fabrics in the future. 

Although the daffodils make it look like spring, I still need a warm top for chilly dog walks!

Now there's something else I'd like to discuss about this pattern. When I was looking for other cowl neck top images to compare the size of the cowl with, it suddenly hit me that this pattern (at least the line drawing) was the spitting image of Sewaholic's Renfrew, view C. At first sight the only difference is the center back seam (remember, that same one that isn't really there). I've never seen the pattern pieces of the Renfrew, so I may be wrong, but even the sleeve and hip bands look similar. I've seen patterns on the Bootstrap site that obviously were designer knockoffs like this Armani jacket. Now what if Indie pattern companies start copying other small companies' designs? Is it the same? Or does it feel a bit awkward?
I'd like to hear your opinions on this one!

This will be my last winter sewing. I do have some plans for spring sewing, but I'm not sure if they're going to happen.
You see, Mr Foxgloves has a hobby too. I like cutting fabrics, he likes cutting wood. Ten days ago he had an unfortunate encounter with one of his lumberjack toys and we ended up in the Emergency Room. He cut a tendon, had surgery and ended with his hand in plaster.

He's not allowed to drive a car, so for at least the next six weeks I'll be the Chief of Transport, Operator of Buttons and Shoe Laces and Head Gardener of Foxgloves Manor.
Not sure how much sewing I can squeeze in. But mr Foxgloves is on the mend and we keep smiling!

See you later!

PS Thanks for the lovely comments on my previous post. I hope to catch up on blog reading and IG soon!

Sewing room swoon!

I'm sitting in my sewing room, reading an article in a magazine......about my sewing room. I'm tempted to do a 'spot the ten differences'-game. I notice a different variety of tulips, some extra pattern magazines on top of the shelves, red thread cones on my overlocker showing the progress on the pattern I'm tracing in the magazine picture. So meta!

A few months ago I received a mail from Amy Thomas, the editor of UK-based Love Sewing magazine. She wondered if I'd be interested in having my sewing space appear in the Sewing Room Swoon feature in the magazine. In case you wonder how the UK's no.1 sewing magazine spotted a Dutch room, Amy (of the Almond Rock blog) follows my Instagram feed. I incidentally post pictures of the room, mostly during challenges like #bpsewvember or #sewphotohop.

So far it had never occurred to me to write a blog post about my sewing room set up. Yet I like a good peek into sewing spaces! In fact, all of you out there provided so much inspiration when I was searching the internet for storage and lay-out ideas for my first dedicated sewing room. Who knows, maybe someone would like to see my fabric stash or my button organization? Amy's request was just the little push I needed to take some decent pictures (easier said than done on a dark and drizzling January day). And here it is, a pretty compilation of my happy space. Thanks, Love Sewing!

For someone who works in publishing it has been a very useful experience. How often did I think people got a little carried away when I wrote an article about them? Relax, it's only the newspaper! And here I was, impatiently looking forward to seeing the pictures of the room I'm sitting in on a daily basis. I'd already seen the pdf's of the spread, but  I just couldn't wait to see the article in print. So exciting! Food for thought and lesson learned :)

Love Sewing issue 24 page 44

Love Sewing issue 24 page 45

I'll write a follow up post soon with more pictures and details. But that will have to wait. I have a shiny new magazine to read!

Finished Vogue 1465, a Donna Karan jacket

Vogue 1465 is an unlined jacket with princess seams, two-piece sleeves and a shaped front hemline with mitered corners. Wait a minute! If it's unlined, why do I need a meter of lining? Well, for this: 12+ meters of bound seams! 

As I wrote in this post I used a high quality ponte for the jacket and a darker tone Bemberg lining to cut the bias strips for the Hong Kong seam finish. The binding took a while, but I thoroughly enjoyed the process. You could discuss the use of binding ponte seams. It won't fray, or curl, so if you want to cut corners you don't need to finish your seams at all. Yet for me it is taking this pattern from a cardigan to a jacket. It's not just a pretty looking inside, the bound seams add a bit of structure. As a follower on Instagram put it: it helps the fabric to stay authentic in its drape.

This pattern comes with excellent instructions. It's all in the details. The front of the jacket extends into the back collar and the continuous hem is finished with four rows of topstitching.

After doing a test run for the topstitching I basted the hemline first. With four rows of topstitching you can't afford being 1 or 2 mm off or it will immediately show in the spacing between your rows.

Here's another design element that is not only pretty, but also functional. The quilting results in a firm hem that keeps its shape. I've read some reviews of other ponte jackets, like Grainline's Morris, where the shaped hem keeps curling, despite working with a facing. This DK method works like a dream. 

Still sharp after a long day and two train journeys! (Why is it so hard to take pictures of red fabric?) Sorry for the crappy phone pics, but with hail storms going on this will have to do!

When my jacket was finished some unexpected shoulder issues occurred. I had made my usual forward shoulder adjustment, checked the slope angle and everything looked fine. After wearing it for a few hours I noticed some bunching that had not been there before. I checked my fitting books, still no clue. I had a light bulb moment when I studied the pictures. Sometimes they tell a different story than the mirror! When you look at the line drawings the collar follows the line of the princess seams.

Now when I'm moving around my collar moves too, adding up to an inch to the shoulder line! On the hanger the shoulder just drops, on me the extra fabric causes wrinkles on top of the shoulder joint.

I'm not sure if it's an inevitable side effect of the front extending into the back collar, or if adding a smidge at the collar would help. But then I looked at the picture of the original and thought: 'Who am I to outsmart Donna Karan' and from now on it's called a design feature ;)

I should mention the pattern is running large. I usually prefer a tighter fit, but once I started wearing this jacket I didn't want to take it off. So comfortable!

I've been wearing my jacket all weekend. First to have gin and tonic with my youngest daughter, pairing it with straight black jeans.

The next day I joined my other daughter to the ballet in Amsterdam. Changed my pencil skirt for dressy trousers after checking the weather forecast. Sigh.

Don't you love that view from the theater over the river Amstel?

Speaking of ballet: here's a public service announcement! Tonight, February 23 starting at 20.15 hrs CET,  a live stream of Dutch National Ballet performing Mata Hari will be available in 44 countries on Mezzo tv.

You can check this page to see details and repeat broadcast schedules. Well worth watching!

Review Knipmode March 2016

The March issue of Knipmode is all about top trends must-have items for spring/summer 2016. At least, according to the editor's introduction. After reading the magazine from cover to cover and over again I find the content of this issue more classic than fashionable.

Palazzo pants, midi skirt, kimono

Maxi dress, flared pants, jumpsuit

Oversized shirt, 7/8 pants, trenchcoat

Also in the must-have collection: a blazer, a shift dress, culottes, a boho blouse, a vest, a cardigan and a denim shirtdress. A bunch of useful, but not jaw dropping patterns.

Any personal must-haves? Yes, I think I'll give pants #5 a go. It has good style lines, a nice curved waistband and a back leg seam, providing extra fitting opportunities.

Same pants as the green crepe, now in stretch denim

The bonus spring special is sponsored by a big fabric supplier. It's a vehicle to showcase new fabric designs that often overwhelm the garments and usually are not my cup of tea. Looking at the line drawings I can see the attraction of some of the patterns, like tunic 105.

Back to the regular issue. The midi skirt #8 (pictured above in Vlisco print) is a maybe for me. I'm not utterly convinced by the design with two flat pleats on the right side and a box pleat on the left side. There is a risk of the asymmetry ending up looking unintentional. (Below the shorter version)

When the right fabric comes along I'll give this kimono sleeve shirt a try. Gardeners can't have enough simple shirts!

I saved the best for last.

This DKNY inspired skirt (#27) prompted mr Foxgloves to donate one of his pinstripe jackets (one of many that started out as suits, but survived the matching pants) so that I could do that 'Great British Sewing Bee- refashion thing'. I may take him up on his offer, for the fun of trying.

My favourite pattern-of-the month must be this dress:

I've already earmarked a pretty cotton sateen for this stunning pattern!

What would you make from this issue?

Vogue 8379, the wrap top

Ever since I finished this lace skirt back in 2013 I was struggling to come up with outfit ideas. I love this skirt (Knipmode 1312-04, blogged here) but it didn't go with anything in my closet.

A few months ago I took the skirt with me on a fabric shopping spree and found some fabulous fluffy fabric in blush pink.

Instant outfit! I like the mix of textures and shine!

Now what to make? The fabric came with some challenges: I wanted to make a fitted top with as few seams as possible, preferably without facings to avoid bulk, and no topstitching. When I was putting away Vogue 8379 after finishing my jungle wrap dress it occurred to me this pattern was fitting the bill! I traced new skirt patterns with a skirt length of 15 cm and went straight ahead. Cutting was a nightmare. Pink fluff ended up in my nightgown, on the dog's ears and in my coffee, but other than that it was quick and easy.

I omitted the facings, just turned the seam allowances under and hand stitched them down. I lengthened the sleeves by about 10 cm and made sure my ties were long enough. Ha! A fox is not caught twice in the same snare ;)

I used the double stitched seams again, so no need to go out for matching serger thread. I kind of like this finishs, at least I do on knit garments without lots of negative ease and not too much tension on the seams.

(Slightly out of focus) double stitched seam

Finding the right spot to take pictures wasn't as easy as it is when I'm wearing my usual bold and colourful garments. Suddenly those trees growing out of my head became the stars! Arghh, so much easier in summer when the backdrop is all green. Just as I was about to give up the light changed and the sky turned into a matching shade of pink.

Artistic or what? Now I'm off to de-fluff the premises!
Happy sewing!

Vogue 8379, the jungle edition

Wooooooahhhhh! While my first V8379 ended up a bit plain and boring, the remake can be described as...well, the opposite. In fact my camera had trouble focusing on the leopard-roses-tropical birds-mix, and the same goes for the human eye. You just don't know where to look in this dazzling print. The pictures were taken on a rather dark afternoon, the flash went off resulting in slightly washed out colours, in real life the fabric is vibrant!

The fabric is a cotton/viscose mix, the pattern is Vogue 8379, a classic wrap dress I made two years ago in solid blue.

What I like best about this pattern are the diagonal soft pleats coming from the waist. They provide nice shaping, releasing extra fabric at the bust without messing with the neckline.

Because of this feature it is gently skimming the curves, which on me is a better look than wrap dresses with a large amount of negative ease at the bust. 

The pattern comes with two sleeve variations: a short sleeve and bracelet length with cuffs. I was short on fabric so the cuffs weren't an option. Without cuffs the sleeves looked a bit wide so I narrowed them below the armscye and shortened the sleeves till just below the elbow.

The fabric had been in my stash for over a year and I knew I would not be able to buy extra in case of emergency. It was very slippery and during an overlocker test run it didn't behave very well, making me think the sewing machine was the safer option.

The instructions mentioned double-stitched seams. Stich along the seam line, stitch again 1/4"(6mm) away in seam allowance; trim close to the second stitching. This results in seams that at first glance look like French seams, but without the bulk coming from the extra fold. I had never used it before, but it looks really good.

I left out the facings, as I knew from the first time I used this pattern that there was no way to let them stay inside.

Neckline turned under and stitched

When I read Debbie's review of the Cashmerette Appleton wrap dress over at Stitches and seams I made a note of her brilliant idea to interface the ties and copied it for this dress. Works really well!

Speaking of the ties: they ended up really short. Of course this may have something to do with the state of my waistline, but that should have been taken care of by sewing up the correct size. Right? When I checked the pattern I noticed a grading issue. Only half of the difference in waist size was added to the next size up. Which would of course be correct if the ties were knotted at the back. But when you tie it as in the envelope drawing, the right tie goes all the way around the waist and the left tie about three quarters. With a difference of 33 cm/13" between the smallest and the largest size this is rapidly adding up, so check it! Adding to an already finished tie is no fun. Ask me how I know ;)

I am very pleased with this dress that is putting a smile on my face everytime I see it. I'm already planning a next version! 

That's about it. As I mentioned a few days ago this dress was inspired by Jungle January, and although finished in time, due to jungle weather conditions it was only ready to join the big parade on the fourth day of Ferocious February.

Thanks to Anne of Pretty Grievances for hosting another fabulous Jungle January! This one is for you Anne, a salute from the exotic woodpecker that is now residing on my right upper arm. Beep beep!