Hi! It's been a while! In my previous post I was standing in the snow having zero intention of putting this blog on halt for over six months. But then a string of unrelated medical issues interfered with my plans. I kept sewing, but it's not hard to imagine that when you're on a diet of painkillers and antibiotics taking selfies is not high on the list. I'm as good as new now and happy to be back!
At the beginning of the year I promised myself to make 2019 more adventurous sewing wise. Ah, little did I know... Well, I did manage to make a few unexpected choices in recent months. Who knew I'd want to sew a jumpsuit? I checked, and the last time I did was in 1982!
I think it was the wrap that got me interested in the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory. My wrap dresses are firm favourites, so why not try something related?
My measurements put me in a size 20 and I decided to make a quick toile.
Uhm, no. Unfinished and unpressed, as I was about to throw it in the bin at this stage. I decided to give mr Foxgloves a good laugh first but much to my surprise he saw the potential of this garment. The verdict: overall too big, fabric on the heavy side and 'weird spoilers' above the bust. All excellent observations!
I decided to go down a size, do a small FBA and add darts. I found the fabric of my dreams during a trip to Rotterdam. It's a drapy rayon from Schroder modestoffen.
Apart from the FBA / bust darts I made a few other changes. I used lightweight interfacing to give the ties a crisp look and angled the ends. I also changed the finished width of the ties from 3 to 4.5 cm for better proportions and lengthened them by 10 cm.
Sizing down was a good call, and perhaps I could have gone down another size. Hard to tell with these loose fitting styles. When does a wide leg turn into a too wide leg?
Despite the FBA and bust darts there is still some folding above the bust. Probably inevitable with cut on sleeves on my busty frame. The folds disappear when I move my arms and I did not want to over fit. Same goes for the crotch length. The crotch felt a little low at first, but a trial run to the supermarket proved the extra length is much appreciated when bending over or reaching for high shelves.
There's one thing I will change for a next version. My front waist seam ended up a little too low as a result of the FBA. The ties automatically sit at my true waist and the waist seam does not. (Back waist seam is fine) For the time being I'm okay with that. Taking out any length will make wiggling into this jumpsuit even harder than it already is. (One of my medical issues was an acute hernia so my acrobatic skills aren't top notch at the moment)
I'm very happy with this style experiment! I'm considering making a navy version for autumn. Perhaps turn the pleats into darts and change the bias tape finish for a facing to create a slightly more formal look.
But now it's harvest time Chez Foxgloves! Apples, plums, raspberries. All kinds of cooking, baking and freezing going on. Till next time!
you look fantastic, and glad to hear you are feeling better. That print is so pretty and a good choice for the style. Just did a blog post with my changes, I raised the crotch by 2 inches and I like it a lot better. Note that if it feels too high when you try on you can always go back and scoop it by stitching lower. Also I put a few belt loops which keeps the waist in the right place.ReplyDelete
Thanks! I just read your post and will add that raised line for the crotch curve next time. I'm pretty sure I need the current length, since my fabric has no give at all. My next fabric has a tiny bit of stretch, so it's definitely worth testing. I like the idea of belt loops! Not sure it will help this time but I like the polished look. My issue is only at part of the front, so once I'm more flexible I'll shorten the front bodice and hope it's fixed.Delete
Sorry to hear you've been having health issues, but happy you're feeling better. You look very well!ReplyDelete
Love the Zadie jumpsuit on you. And that fabric is stunning!
Thanks Evie! I'm fine now and full of plans. I thought my jumpsuit days were over and never imagined I would like this pattern so much!Delete
Glad to hear from you but sorry about the health issues and glad they're solved. You look great in the photos :).ReplyDelete
The jumpsuit looks wonderful on you. Your husband is a good observer: mine would notice a garment being too big, but other details would skip his attention.
It's harvest time at chez Sigrid too: lots of tomato sauce made today ;).
Good to hear from you as well Sigrid. Mr Foxgloves is turning into a fabric whisperer and is really helpful with fit issues. Must be all those episodes of GBSB :) We've never successfully grown tomatoes so I envy you. Homemade tomato sauce is the best!Delete
It really looks great on you! It was well worth making a muslin and working through your fit challenges. I'm sure the fall one will be lovely too!ReplyDelete
Thanks Carolyn! I never thought I would like this so much. I agree, muslins are so worth the effort and I quite like making them.Delete
That's amazing that a few adjustments make the jumpsuit look so much nicer.ReplyDelete
That's why I like making muslins! Amazing to see the difference a centimeter more or less makes!Delete
Glad to hear you are over your medical issues and back to sewing. l love your jumpsuit. It is very flattering and the print is so pretty. I believe I read that jumpsuis typically have deeper crotches so there is room for the torso when sitting. Those apples look delicious.ReplyDelete
Thank you. Yes, the deeper crotch is a must for sitting and bending. (And picking apples!) It's a bit of an ongoing experiment to determine how deep is too deep. I'll try Beth's (Sunny Gal) method next time for fitting on the go.Delete
I'm so pleased to see you back blogging and I'm glad you are feeling well now. Your jumpsuit turned out lovely and I look forward to seeing your further altered navy one in the autumn.ReplyDelete
Thanks Anne. I'll go for my long list of summer patterns first. It ain't over till it's over!Delete
I just found your post and really appreciate it - I finished my first Zadie yesterday, kind of a muslin. Ironically, it's about the same color as your muslin! I seem to be having similar fit issues and think I will size down also and maybe do an FBA....I will also use a more drapey fabric as mine is a twill and pretty structured. Your second version is absolutely lovely and inspiring. Thanks for sharing!!ReplyDelete
Sorry for the late response, just noted your comment. I hope you’ve successfully made a drapery version. My rayon Zadie is still a wardrobe favourite!Delete