It was love at first sight. Coat fabric with felted roses in vibrant colours! My projects usually start with a pattern, followed by a long search for the right fabric. This time it was the other way around. I immediately envisioned a simple coat with black accents. Piping, bound buttonholes? During the drive home from the fabric market I thought about some of my favourite coat patterns that either needed more drape or had details that would get lost in the busy print. Then I remembered a very simple Knipmode pattern that only needed some minor adjustments to fit the bill.
|Knipmode October 2016 #104|
I liked the panels and the two part sleeves but found the zipper too casual for the fabric. I added an overlap and underlap tat centre front and made a muslin, using badly faded 20+ years old wool from my stash. I'll draft a new collar, taking inspiration from the asymmetric collar on my husband's Hugo Boss coat.
The fit was fine. Maybe a bit roomy, but I always find that hard to judge on a coat muslin. Lining, underlining and inner workings take up space, but how much exactly? To be on the safe side I marked all stitching lines and added generous seam allowances. Fitting on the go will still be an option.
I underlined with a soft olive green flannel for extra warmth. Cutting all pattern pieces in wool, flannel and lining resulted in piles of fabric on every surface of the sewing room. Basting outer fabric and underlining together already reduced the mess considerately.
To accentuate the side panels I added black satin flat piping. Sewing inset corners with two layers of wool, two layers of flannel and piping was challenging. I started with the back panels, the easy part.
At the front I needed to incorporate the pockets in the insets. That's when adding piping became a puzzle that kept me awake at night. Catch stitching the seam allowances of the vertical seam to the underlining really helped getting a clean finish and a sharp corner.
I've done a few test runs for the bound buttonholes as soon as my buttons arrived. My favourite sewing technique. I'm enjoying this project so much!
|Best colour representation|
To be continued!
Coats are so much fun to sew, aren't they? The black piping detail is going to make this coat very classy. Can't wait to see more progress!ReplyDelete
Coat sewing is the best, I really should do it more often!Delete
That's very special fabric. The black piping is a good contrast. Looking forward to see your progress and result.ReplyDelete
I love wearing colourful florals, so why not brighten up dull winter days? Buttonholes are almost done, next adding some structure.Delete
Can't wait to see it completed! I think the modern, simple pattern will really complement your fantastic fabric.ReplyDelete
Thanks, Siobhan. The fabric is the star!Delete
Wow, this is going to be gorgeous! I can't wait to see your finished product!ReplyDelete
Thanks Ann, I hope so. There is no deadline for this coat so I'm taking my time!Delete
Oh your stitches are PICTURE PERFECT! And the color of your coat fabric - I LOVE it!ReplyDelete
BTW Love your ruler/curve!Delete
Thanks Faye. The ruler is one of a set of two I bought many years ago. They're flexible, really useful tools!Delete
Oh this is going to be fabulous. Excellent pattern choice for that gorgeous fabric.ReplyDelete
Thanks, Jean! I hope the piping will create some visual waist definition as there is not much shaping in the pattern!Delete
Oh goodness...what a beautiful fabric. This coat is going to be GORGEOUS!ReplyDelete
Love your fabric; fabulous choice of pattern. I look forward to seeing the progress of your coatReplyDelete
That fabric it absolutely stunning! I'm so excited to see how this turns out :)ReplyDelete
Where did you find fabric like this?ReplyDelete
I bought it in a small Dutch fabric shop. Never seen anything like it ever since!Delete
It's gorgeous. I'm glad you're enjoying the projectReplyDelete