Wednesday, 15 February 2017

Review Knipmode March 2017



Spring is in the air! I've always had a soft spot for March issues of Knipmode and this one is no exception. Nothing beats the first peek at those spring fabric collections!

Patternwise this issue has a lot to offer: 25 sewing patterns, 1 knitting pattern and 11 bonus patterns in a special.

This month's mix & match pattern is for jackets. The basic pattern has bust darts, a shaped seam at centre back and two piece sleeves. The pattern comes with different necklines (collar, bowtie, round), straight and bell sleeves, five different pocket options and three lengths.




The menswear pattern on the other hand comes in a single view only:


A missed opportunity. How hard could it be to add an extra view with a regular collar? If I remember correctly the previous pattern for a button down shirt was released in 2014, it's not like men are spoilt for choice.




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Looking at the overview I see a lot of useful basic patterns. Nothing I wouldn't wear (except for dress #19, been there, done that in the 70s).

From left to right: dress 22, cardigan 18, top 10, skirt 9



Robe manteau 3, top 10, skirt 5 and dress 1

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 On the left blouse 7 and pants 11, on the right blouse 8 and trousers 4

I really like these outfits. I'm tempted to make both blouses, two views of basically the same pattern. One muslin, one FBA for two very different looking garments.

Speaking of FBA's: starting this month Knipmode features a fitting topic. The first fitting issue addressed is adjusting for larger cup sizes. Sadly a rather peculiar FBA technique is demonstrated. A one dart bodice is slashed from top to bottom, leaving a hinge at the shoulder, instead of going up to the bust point and then sideways towards the armscye. Not a method I would recommend. Well, whatever, it's a first!
All Knipmode patterns from size 34 till size 54 are drafted for a B-cup. 
Never before did Knipmode suggest to pick a size based on high bust measurements for those with a larger cup size. A major breakthrough. And not only that, they even added a corresponding size chart. 



Something else that's new is that all patterns are now available as pdf, not just a selection. While I was browsing the shop I even noticed a bundle for all patterns of the February issue. I follow Knipmode on all social media platforms but I can't recall this being brought up. Was it a trial balloon? No sign of a March bundle so far.

Some changes seem to silently come and go. We just got used to having a page where all garments were shown from both front and back, and now it's disappeared again. Very annoying. Take for instance the line drawing of dress #24, you'll notice an interesting back detail. The dress is shown no less than six times in the magazine, in six different fabrics. Non of these pictures shows the back. Please, editors. Fashion shoot style photography is fine, but in a sewing pattern magazine we need more information. Details matter!

Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own.

9 comments:

  1. I can't wait to get this issue. I just started my subscription and I hope it begins with this issue.

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    1. Fingers crossed! The bonus issue has some pretty patterns as well!

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    2. I found out my subscription starts with April but they let me order the March issue separately so I'm thrilled to have it on its way to me.

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  2. Such pretty patterns. Yes, that high bust measurement is extremely useful for those of use who must make bust adjustments.

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    1. It is! I've been working with Knipmode patterns for over 40 years now and so far basically the only advice on bust adjustments they gave was to blend between sizes. According to latest research the average Dutch cup size is between C and D and still going up, so this affects lots of us.

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  3. I like that all patterns are now available as PDF. That's awesome! And, you're right. There isn't much for menswear. A Dutch friend gave me the last men's collection. I should maybe make something from it. Maybe.

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    1. Do you mean the April 2014 bonus issue? Then you should! That's a bunch of nice patterns that would look so good on Jordan!

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  4. Thank you. Some nice patterns. I was reading an old fitting book I hadn't read previously (name escapes me) and it had a rather unusual FBA treatment. I thought it might be worth trying. Agree not dress #19! I'm likely to be stuck on pants for a while yet, though.

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    1. This FBA is very vague on how much length is added, and where. Some readers seem to be confused by it but sadly their questions are ignored. I strongly believe there are more ways to solve fitting issues so who knows, it may work for someone though definitely not for the me!

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