Tuesday, 7 February 2017

Finished winter coat!


Hi all! Can you tell I'm pretty pleased with my new winter coat?



In my previous posts about fabric, pattern and design choices and inner structure I've discussed about everything worth mentioning about this project so this post will be rather picture heavy, ending with a round up of the changes I've made to the pattern (Knipmode 10/2016-104)








After sewing on the buttons, anchored by small buttons on the inside, I pulled a satin tape through the buttons that matches the satin used for the piping and bound buttonholes.



The inserts on the back are purely decorative, on the front they are hiding pockets that are deep enough to carry my phone, keys, coins, dog treats and other miscellanous stuff that mysteriously ends up in there.



A peek of the insides, right before the final press. This coat is very easy to accessorize!
I added extra length to make it more versatile. Can be worn with both pants and dresses.







Soft and cosy on the outside, a warm layer in between and a shiny satin lining. Coat love!

Things I've changed to the design
- Omitted the zipper
- Added overlap and underlap at centre front
- Redrafted the collar
- Four bound buttonholes
- Added flat piping to the design lines at front and back
- Added flat piping (green satin) between facings and lining
- Added a hanging chain

Construction changes
- Added underlining
- Added chest plates and shoulder pieces
- Added a back stay
- Reinforced the insert corners
- Added silk organza to the collar

Fit changes
- Added 12 cm to the bodice
- Added 3 cm to the sleeves

Final thoughts: I really enjoyed sewing this coat. The fabric looks prettier in real life, the colours are much deeper. My camera had a hard time focusing on the dazzle print and some pictures are over exposed to show the details. A lovely print to work with on dull and grey winter days!

I was after a coat with a relaxed fit, without being oversized. One of my other winter coats is very fitted in the shoulders. Although I love that look, it's impossible to wear a jacket underneath. My new coat fits well over chunky sweaters and structured jackets, without having dropped shoulders or raglan sleeves. Win!

The only changes I've made regarding the fit were length adjustments. I like my sleeves slightly longer to keep my wrists warm while cycling. I'll do some test runs, maybe I'll end up shortening them by 1 cm.

So, that's one down for the #KnipmodeChallenge2017!



35 comments:

  1. Stunning and Happy. Beautiful work.

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  2. great use of that unusual fabric. looks fantastic on you and love the touch of piping.

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    1. Thanks, Beth. I liked how the style lines add a hint of a waist but without the piping all details got lost in the print.

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  3. Oh, this is so beautiful, the fabric and your details are incredible. You should be very proud.

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    1. Thank you. It's definitely one of a kind!

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  4. Fantastic, beautiful coat! Great fit, gorgeous fabric!

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  5. Absolutely stunning. I love this fabric. I've enjoyed hearing about the details. Looks like you've got the fit perfect. Enjoy!

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    1. Thank you, Anne. It took some time but I'm very happy with the result.

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  6. GORGEOUS COAT! I love it. It is beautiful. Great fit and all of the changes you made were just right.

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    1. Thanks! I'm so glad I made a muslin. Imagine how it would look 12 cm shorter!

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  7. Stunning coat! Love the style, fit, fabric and reading the details about the changes you made.

    Sue

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    1. Thanks, Sue. I try to keep track of all changes for future reference. I'm glad you like reading this kind of posts. So do I on other blogs. I like to read about the choices made and the problems solved. I think it's a bit more informative than just showing fabric, pattern and end result.

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  8. Beautiful work and beautiful fabric. I would wear that! :)

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    1. Hehe, so do I! Wearing it every day!

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  9. lovely coat and great details really suits you as well

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    1. Thanks, Valerie. Sometimes I come up with silly details first. When I bought this fabric I didn't yet have a pattern in mind but I knew this coat needed black satin bound buttonholes!

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    1. Thanks! Sew all details, just because we can!

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  11. This coat suits you perfectly. The extra details you added elevate it to a true couture piece, and I am so impressed that you were able to manipulate the "nubby" fashion fabric so successfully! You look fabulous in it!

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    1. Thanks, Karen! It took a bit of patience, a lot of steam and a sturdy clapper!

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  12. I love your coat and I love that you decide to look bright and cheery in the middle of the coldest months of the year.

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    1. Thank you. From now on I'll only sew bright fabrics in January! Last night I discovered another advantage: finding my coat on a restaurant's coat rack was really easy :)

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  13. Absolutely beautiful coat and testament to your exemplary sewing skills. You should wear this with pride.

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    1. Thank you! I'm really drawn to more complex projects lately. I don't think it requires more skills, just a bit of patience to go through a gazillion steps.

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  14. Your button detail is so lovely!!

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    1. Thanks! The buttons had ridiculously large openings that shouted for something extra.

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  15. Beautiful coat, beautifully made. I'm sure it will be a long time favourite.

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    1. Thank you. For a few days I thought winter was over but today is a snow day and I'm happily strolling around in my new favourite coat!

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  16. The coat is absolutely lovely and the changes you made to the pattern were spot on! Lovely fabric + perfect coat = amazing finished garment.

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    1. Thank you, Carolyn! The fabric was love at first sight and it was a pleasure to work with. I'm very happy with the outcome!

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  17. What a lovely coat, I liked the fabric as well..the combination of colours peacock green with bright pink looks too good on you.

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