Sewing with knits, a beginner's evaluation

Back in February, when I finally unpacked my second hand serger, I was not convinced I would enjoy sewing with knits. Seven months after this Start the serger post, and twelve knit garments later, it is time to make up my mind. Do I like sewing with knits? Place your bets!

Let's start with my thoughts on the Bernina 1100 D. It behaved well, from the very first moment on. Which is more than can be said about it's owner, who may or may not have used some inappropriate language in the sewing room while threading the beast. 

Really, I felt like the biggest klutz in sewing history. Determined to master the situation I kept threading and threading over again for about two hours until I got the hang of it. I never had a threading issue after that. Also: no breaking needles, no fabric eating or other incidents during those seven months of serger joy.

So technically it was a success. Yet I'm not completely sold.

As I said at the start of this experiment, I don't like fast sewing. After making some easy skirts and shirts I was missing the feeling of accomplishment, of making bespoke one of a kind garments with nice details. That's when I started to bring some of my favourite techniques into the mix. After whipping up a Moneta dress in a few hours, I wanted my next dress to be more of a challenge. And it was! Stretch lace, underlined bodice, french seams for the skirt and a hand stitched hem.

It's the most 'me' garment I made during this test period and I'm wearing it whenever I can. 

Although I may not get overjoyed by sewing knits, I do like wearing them.

Initially I thought sewing simple tees was a waste of time. Why bother? But after making a Deer&Doe Plantain shirt I completely changed my mind. This was so different! A relaxed (and forgiving) fit, sleeves that ended where I wanted them to end, nice details and a loud print. Just because I could pick whatever I fancied!

When it comes to fitting with knits each fabric will behave differently. Lots of variables have to be taken into account. The amount of stretch, mechanical- and yarn stretch, vertical stretch, weight of the fabric and more. In The Colette guide to sewing knits the advice is to fit as you work. I find that hard, especially when it comes to creating the right neckline. With my frame I look massive when the neckline is too high, on the other hand a neckline that drops too low can be pretty indecent when you're blessed with a large bust. Fitting a bodice can not be done properly without knowing how much the neckline and waistline will drop once you've added the skirt. It's interesting to compare pictures of Moneta dresses, made by bloggers in different fabrics. Fabrics with little stretch result in high necklines and short skirts, too much vertical stretch and you'll end up with lots of cleavage, a dropped waist and a midi skirt! Making a test garment is only useful when you use the same fabric you're planning to use for your final garment. That's not a very cheerful thought when you lay your hands on some beautiful but expensive knit fabric!

All in all I've learned a lot about sergers and knits and there's a lot more to investigate. And I will! The serger will stay for sure. Must make more Mabels and Monetas.

And Plantains, and... Yet, I don't know how to put it, something is missing. 

If you force me now to push one of the three buttons above I'll pick the middle one. I like the garments I've made so far cause they're easy to wear in everyday life. But when it comes to sewing, for me it's not the destination but the journey that counts. Seeing a garment come to life little by little, going through your reference books to find a new technique. Nothing beats daydreaming with a fine needle in your hand!

Maybe I need to find a balance. Sew up some knits for quick wardrobe fixes, alternated with slow and mindful sewing projects? 

Lekala 8004, a faux wrap knit top

What to do with an end of the bolt piece of lightweight knit in deep purple? Back in March BT (Before Tripod) I tried my first Lekala pattern. More on the construction and thoughts on sizing can be found here. What the pictures did not show clearly (duh, no wonder when you're not modeling your garment!) is how wide the neckline is. The shoulder seam is barely existing, the v-neck practically ends at the top of the arm.

As much as I liked the look, the combination of long sleeves and bare shoulders wasn't very practical. It was often too hot or too cold to wear this top. Time to get the pattern out again!

In brown the extra length added for a vertical only FBA, in red the extra inches now added to the neckline, front and back. It may not look like a big difference but it's much more comfortable when you're not feeling like you're sitting in the middle of a draught all day long. 

Excusez the weird look, it's the best close up shot of the new neckline....

And the back. Looks like I'm directionally challenged when I'm trying to take pictures of my back side. Always missing some limbs or even my head.

Looking at these pictures it may appear like I could go down a size. I pinned the side seams in to check and although it improved the fit, it did not improve the overall look. This fabric is so lightweight that the belt loops and button of my jeans show through it if I go any tighter. 

I do recommend this free pattern to anyone who wants to try a customized sewing pattern. Instant gratification: just minutes after sending my measurements the pdf was in my mailbox. 

Someday soon I will try one of Lekala's skirts to check the fit on my bottom half.

Did you try a Lekala pattern? Did you like it?

Multiple Monetas and a sewing machine on fire

For OWOP 2014 (One Week One Pattern) I picked Colette's Moneta as my pattern. The aim of the challenge was to wear your favorite pattern throughout the week and show it's versatility. Hundreds of sewists all over the world joined in and it was fun watching those countless pictures on Instagram.

Day 1: Wearing my Monet inspired Moneta during a relaxed day in the sewing room.

Day 2: gardening in my Floral frenzy Moneta

Day 3: disaster day. As I was sitting in my sewing room, quietly pinning some pieces together, I heard a strange noise coming from my sewing desk. Then there was smoke. Lots of smoke. Coming from my beloved Bernina, yikes! More on that story in another post. Needless to say there was no finished Moneta peplum top at the end of that black day.

Day 4. What's a girl to do? Keep smiling, get dressed, in a repeat Moneta, and take the sewing machine for an emergency visit to the repair shop.

Day 5: I posted my 'if only' Moneta on Instagram. If only my Bernina had not been overnight in intensive care, this would have been my fourth Moneta dress. Now it was 3 meters of fabric, draped convincingly. Fooled anyone?

Day 6: look who's back! (Another repeat, now worn with a cardigan)

Day 7: The Grande Finale! For the last day of OWOP I picked my lace Moneta.

So, although things did not exactly go as planned, I enjoyed wearing these dresses and styling them with or without cardigans and with different accessories. For sure my Moneta collection will  get some new additions in the near future.

Day 8: OWOP, I can't stop! Lace, for a night at the ballet.

Cheers to Jane of Handmade Jane for hosting this inspiring edition of OWOP!

Giveaway winner

It's happy hour chez Foxgloves and Thimbles! Cocktails ready to drink to the start of a brand new blogging year. And let's not forget there's a lucky winner!

Oww! I've learned a lot over the last year, but putting a random number generator on the blog apparently is not one of my most successful new tricks. I made a nice composition, in foxglove pink, added the numbers, generated the winner and then I got stuck. 

How to get that thing up here? Copy/paste left me with a mysterious HTML message in the middle of this post. So here's a picture of my screen.

And the winner is.......... Evie of Pendle Stitches.

Congratulations!

Knipmode magazine will be on it's way to England soon.

Now to cheers to all new sewing friends all over the world!

Blogiversary and giveaway

It's time to celebrate! September 10 will be the first blogiversary of Foxgloves and Thimbles. 

It's been a wonderful year and I've really enjoyed being a part of the online sewing community. Thanks everyone for your inspiration, support and thoughtful comments!

My blogiversary coincides with the 45th anniversary of Dutch pattern magazine Knipmode so I thought it would be nice to send a copy to one of you, happy to send worldwide.

The September issue contains over 40 different items in regular and plus size ranges. Tops, tunics, sweatshirts, trousers and more.

Coats Knipmode 9/2014

Skirts Knipmode 9/2014

Dresses Knipmode 9/2014

If you would like to win a copy of this magazine leave a comment before Wednesday, September 10. 

The winner will be picked randomly. 

Sundress addition

To get some more wear out of my summer dress I refashioned a cardigan. It was a long and oversized RTW cardigan that just wasn't working for me. I forgot to take 'before' pictures, but the wonky hemline hit sort of just above the knee. I shortened it about 20 inches / 50 cm and used the cut offs for a 2 inch / 5 cm wide band to finish the hem and to make the ties. Easy job, but I'm really happy with the result.

Have a nice weekend!

All's well that ends well

Speaking of lousy timing! Just when temperatures dropped to an all time low for August I finished my sundress. Well, as you all know, Murphy was to blame for that. But never mind, at last we have a dress to discuss! It's a Moneta. Again? Yes! And thank you Handmade Jane for giving me an alibi to use this pattern for the third time this summer. I've been wearing my Floral frenzy Moneta to death and my Lace Moneta has been out for special occasions like ballet performances, concerts and dinner parties. So why not make another one? 

The fabric is a lightweight cotton jersey. I lined the bodice to get a clean neckline finish and I changed the sleeves to capsleeves. I lowered the front neckline (about an inch) and looking at the finished neckline I wish I'd lowered it a bit more.

The picture on the left shows there is hardly any difference between the front and back neckline. To make dressing less confusing in the foggy state of mind before my double espresso I added a little landmark. A simple cross stitch would do, but I'm such a fool for silly additions. For me this kind of detail transforms an ill fitting, grossly overpriced RTW garment into a must-have in the blink of an eye. 

Well, construction wise this flower was the only highlight worth mentioning. Some pictures of the inside:

Waist seam, stabilized with clear elastics and hemline, serged, folded and hand stitched

I asked my husband whether he liked my new dress. "New dress? You're kidding me! I've seen that one before!" I'd like to think this means I've nailed my signature style but maybe it's a sign I've used this pattern one time too many. Ouch!

I hate being predictable. So let's end with an innovation! Instead of kicking my tripod just outside the kitchen door and take some pictures on the usual spot I experimented. Yeah. That's why there are no pics of the back available, all out of focus or headless. But to show I'm no one trick pony I even tried a new pose! See?

Happy sewing!