tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91731798494772123032024-03-13T15:34:54.379+01:00Foxgloves and thimblesSewing in a gardenMariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.comBlogger190125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-45681452032874714882022-03-17T11:43:00.002+01:002022-03-17T11:47:21.469+01:00Sewing room tour<p>This week an article about my sewing room was posted on the <a href="https://blog.bernina.com/nl/2022/03/de-naaikamer-van-2/">Bernina Benelux blog</a> It's in Dutch, and since Google Translate has the habit of throwing all kinds of oddities in the mix when translating sewing terminology, I thought it would be a good idea to share an English version on my blog.</p><p>So here it is, a long overdue post with snippets of what I've been up to recently.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgWAgGaAbY4-tSCY3KDrKHsM4Pv_C007i0Rr4VMihDL3AcBgcammsSOZTUDAHXLi1rGfQPXqNdKWsNrw1GNM3vfFYVYJDRR0Wka9pMHHYAycb0hJeapoG5Uo8OC_goZ4-GyqkrpUB-2gm0wvmrNzdl2QB5OECQkM440s0eT0ClDv6s3RBRQ73pupdW2hw=s3872" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3872" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgWAgGaAbY4-tSCY3KDrKHsM4Pv_C007i0Rr4VMihDL3AcBgcammsSOZTUDAHXLi1rGfQPXqNdKWsNrw1GNM3vfFYVYJDRR0Wka9pMHHYAycb0hJeapoG5Uo8OC_goZ4-GyqkrpUB-2gm0wvmrNzdl2QB5OECQkM440s0eT0ClDv6s3RBRQ73pupdW2hw=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p>Hi! I’m Marianne, born in 1957 and dressmaker since 1977. It started with hippie dresses during my days at Uni, followed by power suits and a wedding dress in the 80s, baby clothes, children's wardrobes and later prom dresses for my daughters. Each phase presented new creative challenges. Now I mainly sew for myself again. My favourites? Beautiful, challenging patterns with elaborate details. It's wonderful to see the image you have in your head slowly become reality! These days I mainly post my works in progress and finished garments on Instagram (@foxglovesandthimbles)</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi4o3vBDctPynvP70O7gWa7BkV5EbOm8U78rwUAQBv6kYz3jtkrtSY1h0ko2KeysGMnkXErT77P6BxADI13xMCACJonSrfXZiPnK5cW_dUr3YMcqcQrJsxYNx1ir-iriaiUNtSZAB2tEaBQFjE-uVOSk1I9tBGYcKYav5Yqi7aIkvrZP0LF35f5MFtSIA=s3331" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2230" data-original-width="3331" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi4o3vBDctPynvP70O7gWa7BkV5EbOm8U78rwUAQBv6kYz3jtkrtSY1h0ko2KeysGMnkXErT77P6BxADI13xMCACJonSrfXZiPnK5cW_dUr3YMcqcQrJsxYNx1ir-iriaiUNtSZAB2tEaBQFjE-uVOSk1I9tBGYcKYav5Yqi7aIkvrZP0LF35f5MFtSIA=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>For years, the kitchen table was my workplace. My sewing machine was in the china cabinet, the fabrics and haberdashery were in the attic. When I set up a dedicated sewing room as an empty nester, it was my priority to store everything as organised as possible. My sewing room is under the sloping roof, there is no room for tall cabinets. The most important piece of furniture is an old baby dresser, made by my father during my first pregnancy. That baby dresser is packed with fabrics and haberdashery. Both in the open compartments and on top yarn, ribbons, buttons. On the wall above hangs a magnetic strip for storing scissors and other tools. It's incredible how much you can store on a surface measuring just 60 x 120 cm!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEilno9tgqXkOMwtVnM200ap-0zK6njvEMKg_6Xn7lux0JZXwG-gmLnSpKqUeffsOs76WXjHdibBPKoGZArhMasObBqYTYC5hO25_yeehgS6RW_aRqtCI_HfETqBuu2LmZ8scjWeGu9DrD2PIOzzg43cxF-Cz7TGgXBdzAXwwinqAE-4-nZbDm9HUm2P2Q=s3872" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3872" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEilno9tgqXkOMwtVnM200ap-0zK6njvEMKg_6Xn7lux0JZXwG-gmLnSpKqUeffsOs76WXjHdibBPKoGZArhMasObBqYTYC5hO25_yeehgS6RW_aRqtCI_HfETqBuu2LmZ8scjWeGu9DrD2PIOzzg43cxF-Cz7TGgXBdzAXwwinqAE-4-nZbDm9HUm2P2Q=w428-h640" width="428" /></a></div><br /><p>Across the room there are three low bookcases filled with patterns, pattern magazines and sewing books. Shoe shelves are mounted on top so I can display the latest magazines and patterns. Under the shoe shelves there is storage space for rulers and tracing paper, above the bookcases there's a picture shelf with a few magnetic boards for inspiration pictures and fabric swatches.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjMNwdrX2tp4U0LmxMr4kwwsnX5Z9VLN6YABOIx8yQUmgDicaX8GDvKB7jxjVwjvHt6GRaFXU5lL4FuaymV0L-Dn0dQZ08KGL1FOXol2WXTyi-3s0vbgtbo6-X6ZzDkwxgpBGClnh6l72teNZC8K6E_jBqMzYFOgIHSajanD2euLMbxqSJFZTMruzfwNQ=s3872" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3872" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjMNwdrX2tp4U0LmxMr4kwwsnX5Z9VLN6YABOIx8yQUmgDicaX8GDvKB7jxjVwjvHt6GRaFXU5lL4FuaymV0L-Dn0dQZ08KGL1FOXol2WXTyi-3s0vbgtbo6-X6ZzDkwxgpBGClnh6l72teNZC8K6E_jBqMzYFOgIHSajanD2euLMbxqSJFZTMruzfwNQ=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I have two tables in a L-shaped set up. A standard table for the machines, a sit/stand desk for hand sewing, pinning and basting. By using a hand crank that table easily changes to cutting table height for tracing, pattern drafting or cutting fabrics. Magnetic storage boxes and hooks for small tools hang from the metal legs. An old keyboard tray is mounted under the top. Perfect for having everything within reach and still keeping your worktop empty.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgXqplXdyQ3r9BFvF4BWAFEuA2QBrdEE3EVf47J7OTpTHzE3V11WrZe3TKIMcBmVMiUCMEkqsmPgmr6BvU9lInCpG_Tte7I_UNB-DnBboXylAbdLq5hQGUbFqT-ytQN2NRTKH-Ht0UKlgKVrXbtYIQd15hPSB7_j8C23HzWwgxkptH063_RxXJIRtSTFw=s3872" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3872" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgXqplXdyQ3r9BFvF4BWAFEuA2QBrdEE3EVf47J7OTpTHzE3V11WrZe3TKIMcBmVMiUCMEkqsmPgmr6BvU9lInCpG_Tte7I_UNB-DnBboXylAbdLq5hQGUbFqT-ytQN2NRTKH-Ht0UKlgKVrXbtYIQd15hPSB7_j8C23HzWwgxkptH063_RxXJIRtSTFw=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>All furniture is kept white, to create a neutral backdrop. Older elements have been added here and there, such as my grandmother's sewing box, vintage sewing magazines from the year I was born and the painted thread spools I played with as a child.<div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh2r6td4yUSEwb8gTzS1dAFJqqBZJjbvs-5yfhA7i8bteOa3nQdQlnFU8QfIedZ7Xro8eZzcd3hD8ZguO4Rgmh58q6pds9MJ86jH57xk75vUvWphtYd4KcYBMb8slEtAHjrcHAHWm9lC5KxlwKvvaVtFv6pel6Qb5iQvLWRu-wzODXxzQz2jL2iE0cijA=s3023" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="3023" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh2r6td4yUSEwb8gTzS1dAFJqqBZJjbvs-5yfhA7i8bteOa3nQdQlnFU8QfIedZ7Xro8eZzcd3hD8ZguO4Rgmh58q6pds9MJ86jH57xk75vUvWphtYd4KcYBMb8slEtAHjrcHAHWm9lC5KxlwKvvaVtFv6pel6Qb5iQvLWRu-wzODXxzQz2jL2iE0cijA=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I have three machines. A Bernina 570 QE, a Bernina 1100D overlocker and a Bernina 1030. For the first ten years of my sewing career (including the wedding dress!) I worked with a heavy, noisy machine found next to a garbage bin. It was blessed with the subtlety of a bulldozer. Buying my first Bernina made such a huge difference that I was sold on the brand for life. A favourite? I once said that in the event of a fire, I would run to save the 1030 first. After all, it's my first love. But I wouldn't miss the other two for the world!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgPcUKF7NQFK3n81G_gQDd2y8D65IM11P7giV6DDxtf0-tpeQiNCgs99WDDgQCDUv9_ZP2HfpmRtvN05rGjNW6ac0a9oKA0b1SBhAUw7eUxc2rosNZqaoABP8Y_mchOKvrzJq91JA-1YssiagDzQ1tMcpXa6ZPdm8QQPwLtPR2-JdPTRTKoaZXuvVsuWw=s3872" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3872" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgPcUKF7NQFK3n81G_gQDd2y8D65IM11P7giV6DDxtf0-tpeQiNCgs99WDDgQCDUv9_ZP2HfpmRtvN05rGjNW6ac0a9oKA0b1SBhAUw7eUxc2rosNZqaoABP8Y_mchOKvrzJq91JA-1YssiagDzQ1tMcpXa6ZPdm8QQPwLtPR2-JdPTRTKoaZXuvVsuWw=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>What does your dream sewing room look like?</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My dream sewing room is a room where everything has a fixed place and you can find things with your eyes closed. The size of that room is less important, the organization level all the more. For me, the trick is to find (and keep) a good balance between the available space and the amount of stuff you drag into it. It's an ongoing battle to ensure that the doors of the fabric cabinet can still close and the number of patterns remains within limits. Sometimes tough choices have to be made in order to keep my room free of clutter and prevent overflowing drawers. But creating my dream workspace is worth it!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Big projects or quick projects?</b></div><div>Big and captivating please! During the first lockdown I found distraction in making a winter coat. Tailored, using horsehair canvas, a pad stitched collar, bound buttonholes. The kind of project I find it hard to walk away from once the last stitch is made. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjjb0PqgGgh_RdWWRoRZCDaRvMOyunsQkSy63yp7cG5ROTFtL6qYPrt_ZI4_fGFso2jgo3acV70WARt24c3fWpQ3vuhxbJYrPq2FTKiPoJnw2jFSpeLEo0PUJsZvt3ikXhXGc6YbfGxtit5K_-ILBOxhRM2om0s1WtPIb-A1blt6rRB_U_peHEaVhr91g=s3024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjjb0PqgGgh_RdWWRoRZCDaRvMOyunsQkSy63yp7cG5ROTFtL6qYPrt_ZI4_fGFso2jgo3acV70WARt24c3fWpQ3vuhxbJYrPq2FTKiPoJnw2jFSpeLEo0PUJsZvt3ikXhXGc6YbfGxtit5K_-ILBOxhRM2om0s1WtPIb-A1blt6rRB_U_peHEaVhr91g=w640-h640" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>During the next lockdown I worked on a Chanel-style jacket, made with traditional couture techniques. Quilting loosely woven bouclé and silk, using the Bernina walking foot #50. I spent a total of 124 hours on this jacket and loved every minute of it.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgPSsuFr52BOv4LLNeIizwgx41XcxsGgcgYXwceTAQKfsOspg37x7nX_8mYdwtEZOv_9cseZuRwtnVU4bbWZn6f5CcQRejcS2M7kAenpHUj8Tsj0WtRyeuFjlR5RPnblSqH4PTUa0g38rhQsv54ZHwLFj7gmIY2X2MqURB3jqBvxswRJxfUF7pve_d5wQ=s2855" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2855" data-original-width="2855" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgPSsuFr52BOv4LLNeIizwgx41XcxsGgcgYXwceTAQKfsOspg37x7nX_8mYdwtEZOv_9cseZuRwtnVU4bbWZn6f5CcQRejcS2M7kAenpHUj8Tsj0WtRyeuFjlR5RPnblSqH4PTUa0g38rhQsv54ZHwLFj7gmIY2X2MqURB3jqBvxswRJxfUF7pve_d5wQ=w640-h640" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><div><b>Do you mostly sew during the day or at night?</b></div><div>That depends on the season. During summer I spend a lot of time gardening in the cutting garden and mostly sew on rainy days. I often get the best ideas in the middle of the night. Because sewing projects also come along in my sleep!</div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>How many garments have you made?</b></div><div>Uhmm, countless? My wardrobe is 90% handmade. I make what I need, from t-shirts and jeans for working in the garden to evening wear and everything in between. Never a dull moment!</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Is your sewing room chaotic or always tidy?</b></div><div>Don't be fooled by the pictures! When I'm busy it always becomes a disaster area with me slaloming between the piles. But as soon as I finish a project, I put everything back where it belongs and clean the room. And then there's that magical moment, sitting at a completely empty sewing table. Time for the next plan!</div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhBADb-xMfEh4O1jguhF9jQLAT5L6g19XQrVxJAWbTk3Kgbc8xrx-_v0-myC9LElb_rcCsmsH-ghj4GpV-IVy61DGKeMemnDZ_saFIoqkpGW13BSYVH4DxQpqmWMxfuTx94ZRzgM-HYDt_iWlWzGL_mT8mWIeRw5RlWuTTwTyd6zpvJyvVu7wiEJmgA2w=s1619" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1619" data-original-width="1614" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhBADb-xMfEh4O1jguhF9jQLAT5L6g19XQrVxJAWbTk3Kgbc8xrx-_v0-myC9LElb_rcCsmsH-ghj4GpV-IVy61DGKeMemnDZ_saFIoqkpGW13BSYVH4DxQpqmWMxfuTx94ZRzgM-HYDt_iWlWzGL_mT8mWIeRw5RlWuTTwTyd6zpvJyvVu7wiEJmgA2w=w638-h640" width="638" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>—————————————————————————————————————————-</div><p><br /></p></div></div>Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-15160481774053966342020-02-07T13:40:00.001+01:002020-02-07T14:21:53.278+01:00The sleeves of my dreams <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAR-sJwGwBGHX8hJrMLVgDc9oq96QQarXKB5zWJlAviAo7txdBpIz1aMOwfdVWapwA1XDIaOtHb0Vw6ZGtk7zFXRneXZTQ1vRCXfcmVGWpWpznP8NFiT5wtoiiOd5NEZ7i7YrP3EvPQSb_/s1600/IMG_1332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAR-sJwGwBGHX8hJrMLVgDc9oq96QQarXKB5zWJlAviAo7txdBpIz1aMOwfdVWapwA1XDIaOtHb0Vw6ZGtk7zFXRneXZTQ1vRCXfcmVGWpWpznP8NFiT5wtoiiOd5NEZ7i7YrP3EvPQSb_/s640/IMG_1332.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sleepwear with statement sleeves? Yes please!<br />
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Several years ago I discovered the fun of sewing my own sleepwear and I find it extremely rewarding. It's the part of my wardrobe that I wear 30% of the time, and the first thing I see in the mirror when I get up. Once I started looking at sleepwear as a serious part of my wardrobe it made sense to incorporate my favourite colours, prints and style elements and create a comfortable and pretty nighttime collection. And bonus: it's a nice way to try new silhouettes, like in this case a t-shirt dress.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ottobre 5/2018</td></tr>
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The pattern is from Ottobre magazine 5/2018 and comes in a dress and sweatshirt version.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLrW_BqosrrEC8Rf0gdo71Kg0UjGZqJoh2lY5q2j9GUuwU_OMtZ97FFRzi6dwXyAQF1vLkUD4j8C8NOz0BCtNKjMznjGkolJ7VgEyYn5T0vyeUqEkY_ytl_PzR6JLWhsWK67ryZ7HFbFg/s1600/IMG_1310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLrW_BqosrrEC8Rf0gdo71Kg0UjGZqJoh2lY5q2j9GUuwU_OMtZ97FFRzi6dwXyAQF1vLkUD4j8C8NOz0BCtNKjMznjGkolJ7VgEyYn5T0vyeUqEkY_ytl_PzR6JLWhsWK67ryZ7HFbFg/s640/IMG_1310.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fabric is a beefy cotton double knit. I used the wider stripes for the bodice and sleeves and the smaller stripes for the cuffs and the bands. I made size 48 and lengthened the bodice (5 cm/2 inches) as Ottobre patterns are drafted for a height of 168 cm/5'6'' and I'm 173 cm / 5'8''. Next time I'll go down a size as the shoulders are a bit roomy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwyCbiUhoNOWf1zBKJMRlwAxWClEj6_GCOm7rsijFb5rr8DRMXM22lV4-bkaF0U_sxpzE-IPTbL0_hACRugn_03K_-AbWf9u5BHuD2334J4VI1-tAIjlPP2-wM_jKjbxWsthc4Yk4veflB/s1600/IMG_4994+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1090" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwyCbiUhoNOWf1zBKJMRlwAxWClEj6_GCOm7rsijFb5rr8DRMXM22lV4-bkaF0U_sxpzE-IPTbL0_hACRugn_03K_-AbWf9u5BHuD2334J4VI1-tAIjlPP2-wM_jKjbxWsthc4Yk4veflB/s640/IMG_4994+%25283%2529.JPG" width="436" /></a></div>
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I love the sleeves. There's a little shoulder dart and the pleats start just above the elbow. Of course the cuffs keep all that extra fabric in place, much appreciated when brushing teeth or making breakfast. The overall style is a bit too sporty for my taste for daytime wear, although with a few changes like a v-neck it might work as a sweater. I couldn't be happier with the colour, it's a perfect match with the <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/01/simplicity-1563-pink-kimono.html">kimono style robe</a> that I made in 2018.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtIdb0AbhITjOLJvkkaHkIigNdW6nzD_fTgjqGYf74Mg4V24xS7cIQBTu-OVh8R6PTwsvvHmC91wFxcaSXz1nMH7CNJSJbIIO7Em-qmMWyd9KJUOmskaDtjzZ8aE_jA0BLjtFDoaNZiP83/s1600/kIMONO.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="428" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtIdb0AbhITjOLJvkkaHkIigNdW6nzD_fTgjqGYf74Mg4V24xS7cIQBTu-OVh8R6PTwsvvHmC91wFxcaSXz1nMH7CNJSJbIIO7Em-qmMWyd9KJUOmskaDtjzZ8aE_jA0BLjtFDoaNZiP83/s640/kIMONO.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 1563</td></tr>
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I'm not as brave this time so a few barefoot bedtime shots will have to do!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeym9-NlCVTnbq-J_BZcaok_DIyUBDM3bqwbkiHvbtFOtVVcKE-v2m_HMxUR_nvR3ZxsUgAhy-Qv5tuQOttfiKNQ3IU7wb9-aGaZjao-_wwqTnFDRY6hNjZf42z-J6TRmbSggx7EmHpqNO/s1600/image2+%25282%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeym9-NlCVTnbq-J_BZcaok_DIyUBDM3bqwbkiHvbtFOtVVcKE-v2m_HMxUR_nvR3ZxsUgAhy-Qv5tuQOttfiKNQ3IU7wb9-aGaZjao-_wwqTnFDRY6hNjZf42z-J6TRmbSggx7EmHpqNO/s640/image2+%25282%2529.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJOaSsZgHQM6uebcbB-52IPedDbmc7CzBH_UdMAuw1FFLq2iUknyQytQmzEwLkWbNCbevoY1am1tlHmsa38dVsef437Vh4m3CKdXnBQBXX1HcpfeV5TxEVkddiD6r8wi3FZt3nohDh2PB/s1600/image0+%25282%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJOaSsZgHQM6uebcbB-52IPedDbmc7CzBH_UdMAuw1FFLq2iUknyQytQmzEwLkWbNCbevoY1am1tlHmsa38dVsef437Vh4m3CKdXnBQBXX1HcpfeV5TxEVkddiD6r8wi3FZt3nohDh2PB/s640/image0+%25282%2529.jpeg" width="638" /></a></td></tr>
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Now I'm off to organise a birthday party for my creative photographer, aka mr Foxgloves.<br />
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Happy weekend!<br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-68767529699836708002020-01-31T11:50:00.000+01:002020-01-31T11:50:50.768+01:00A silk Burdastyle blouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMP0kdEgtZmpS_DiSi8e9IMQ2oAvXsxCXytgik9V-nIvbKOyBBREHcs7n36kAn7jlbBY4XAMsQhKdbxOWCQnpB7AEXLhDnNNUmQbWpO03f7QrJhPer_TvwE_wTyIVci4mip4HiKrcjrA8/s1600/IMG_4957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMP0kdEgtZmpS_DiSi8e9IMQ2oAvXsxCXytgik9V-nIvbKOyBBREHcs7n36kAn7jlbBY4XAMsQhKdbxOWCQnpB7AEXLhDnNNUmQbWpO03f7QrJhPer_TvwE_wTyIVci4mip4HiKrcjrA8/s640/IMG_4957.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This blouse started out as a multi-purpose experiment. I wanted to check the fit of Burda patterns on my ever changing shape and I wanted to work with a variety of fabrics to get to know my new sewing machine, a Bernina 570QE. Slippery striped silk gave me the opportunity to test the built in dual feed vs the walking foot and I figured twelve buttons would give me plenty of practice in the buttonhole department as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNBI3k3J8M_gWpUkcHoxK7ozIdxubjeRSKxJ9HJ4cDdR0n44c0HfHBmCgkqXBz1b4WTspGuLyTdGEklABP4L6NCArJNFlGqg_hGrAkFX62IctxjWCSjN5JYCIsUMdPedBqCzOKbLVJa6jG/s1600/IMG_1773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNBI3k3J8M_gWpUkcHoxK7ozIdxubjeRSKxJ9HJ4cDdR0n44c0HfHBmCgkqXBz1b4WTspGuLyTdGEklABP4L6NCArJNFlGqg_hGrAkFX62IctxjWCSjN5JYCIsUMdPedBqCzOKbLVJa6jG/s640/IMG_1773.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The pattern is Burdastyle 11/2016-131, with shoulder princess seams, puffy sleeves and cut-on ties. The fabric is silk that I bought for a steal, in fact is was cheaper than muslin fabric so I bought plenty of it and put half of it in the washing machine. There was no visible difference between new and washed fabric. Good to know I won't be sponsoring the dry cleaner by making this garment!<br />
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I cut the side panels and the cuffs on the bias, just for the fun of it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrd51FqTHpbUGvz3cB8blQMR_3P_ByAbFxCtYBJyzyrooYoTIQK1rztRgiJ1QJ-wFihxwtztldKuYlWnjOldQJYlbvavtGexr6u2fYG3lOsga7pvOqIIJHiy_xAlNZeInUAclziJ9N429u/s1600/BeFunky-collage+%252811%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrd51FqTHpbUGvz3cB8blQMR_3P_ByAbFxCtYBJyzyrooYoTIQK1rztRgiJ1QJ-wFihxwtztldKuYlWnjOldQJYlbvavtGexr6u2fYG3lOsga7pvOqIIJHiy_xAlNZeInUAclziJ9N429u/s640/BeFunky-collage+%252811%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The front was cut on the straight grain, but as you can see in the cutting layout that meant the ties ended up on a weird angle with the stripes in a rather non-distinct direction. So I cut off the pattern pieces for the ties at center front and recut them on the straight grain. This created a tiny seam which completely disappears in the knot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMeSzlozZSwG93z_JLgVgSYkbo2gRUwxP0jHRwAJQx0B9HElbwOVtVnVz8iQIbvCYgY-Kz1r0JMiR84Czs83PSKvVgp1EPjx8hos8splPdABkQi1kNMGDrt-ZTdCyDvQz0dtzejjry_Z6/s1600/IMG_1793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMeSzlozZSwG93z_JLgVgSYkbo2gRUwxP0jHRwAJQx0B9HElbwOVtVnVz8iQIbvCYgY-Kz1r0JMiR84Czs83PSKvVgp1EPjx8hos8splPdABkQi1kNMGDrt-ZTdCyDvQz0dtzejjry_Z6/s400/IMG_1793.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Stripe matching on the side seams was partly successful, due to the fact that not all stripes had the same width. Very noticeable in close-up, not so much from a distance. The dual feed worked nicely and I really enjoyed playing with the adjustable presser foot pressure.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUpFk3aFEuNuPmLHoFazDBoV0rIwORVXLIjQ6HxVByM2jKD30N5ucJBT2pOJqYnOvTH8FEwImsUNxM6pY6teA0vhyphenhyphen5pSzhE7pOk5WEQAdsfyqGtbt3CeoZlmrDBxzhgGxmP_eXpkW2i5BP/s1600/IMG_1824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUpFk3aFEuNuPmLHoFazDBoV0rIwORVXLIjQ6HxVByM2jKD30N5ucJBT2pOJqYnOvTH8FEwImsUNxM6pY6teA0vhyphenhyphen5pSzhE7pOk5WEQAdsfyqGtbt3CeoZlmrDBxzhgGxmP_eXpkW2i5BP/s640/IMG_1824.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sewing the buttonholes was fast and easy, although it was challenging to find the right type of interfacing. Firm enough to keep things straight, but not too much or it would interfere with the drape of this very lightweight fabric.<br />
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The insides, with covered shoulder pads.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYjs5hnaao0EbrIuhwMWpCDBMmD5n7cib0XaVUVNmateYo9WKfOIl6P34UtpvuICEPHwkThIqqkd89bbwfFDLuZsv-9EfgJRU8jLNYIY8Oq4WSAITJ0IjohxWLS6AwlwW7laqAbIBJYQI/s1600/IMG_1826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYjs5hnaao0EbrIuhwMWpCDBMmD5n7cib0XaVUVNmateYo9WKfOIl6P34UtpvuICEPHwkThIqqkd89bbwfFDLuZsv-9EfgJRU8jLNYIY8Oq4WSAITJ0IjohxWLS6AwlwW7laqAbIBJYQI/s640/IMG_1826.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burdastyle 11/2016-131</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXcSpx7fBE4oL1r5q1XPdWLu1UgeIuLfyXglPTMaxAyNayJnK9rPvK9PETaL-ZYZ-242ecmUxfCyiG17as2RdhcyPO6TBucnxGbRdTZ3KG80uF3KTPO-OtvJ79AunZl7s3rvQ5asg-oBse/s1600/IMG_3848+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXcSpx7fBE4oL1r5q1XPdWLu1UgeIuLfyXglPTMaxAyNayJnK9rPvK9PETaL-ZYZ-242ecmUxfCyiG17as2RdhcyPO6TBucnxGbRdTZ3KG80uF3KTPO-OtvJ79AunZl7s3rvQ5asg-oBse/s640/IMG_3848+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sorry for the sad bathroom pictures but the weather is dull and grey and I want to get rid of that long list of unblogged projects. So, what's the verdict? Well, I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this wearable muslin. These pictures were taken after a festive dinner and there is some wrinkling going on, making it hard to judge whether I could take out a bit of fabric in the upper bust, but I think I will next time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkTu4Ku93xIPAHR6dNkC5WgVP-GLQclnUovcMKfJnwX4vH1cHWDQGpWttxUfVbOeHZtsZTFiB_0GJXiTV8IjXWafronThyhW4thYy4nOQkS_eSOWipgepF2imDkv52IEgdrH0EwMFoJg9/s1600/IMG_3849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSkTu4Ku93xIPAHR6dNkC5WgVP-GLQclnUovcMKfJnwX4vH1cHWDQGpWttxUfVbOeHZtsZTFiB_0GJXiTV8IjXWafronThyhW4thYy4nOQkS_eSOWipgepF2imDkv52IEgdrH0EwMFoJg9/s640/IMG_3849.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This blouse is a lovely addition to my wardrobe, both on its own and as a layering piece with a navy suit.<br />
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Now does anyone know what type of silk this is? The seller had no clue and I hadn't worked with a similar fabric before. The blouse feels crisp and almost weightless. The silk has a subtle sheen, is easy to work with and presses well. It has slubs in the weave, but not as much as silk dupioni. I have a few yards left and I would like to label it correctly.<br />
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Wishing you all a happy weekend with plenty of sewing time!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-3796005914178268552020-01-05T21:19:00.001+01:002020-01-06T15:02:52.302+01:00Reflections and plans for 2020<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHf1fn4hH3gbkx0PHf91rKe49YkWAcPUTB6vgQG6cG1Kf8hVUQkwKSeIvKWHzQuLCetTVzvaDJht7OE5NZ6yhVBSeb_qO1yoIr34yGwjQWoEdKICOGKuLtecOdqbe85E7Td6i54V-nc6gf/s1600/IMG_6860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHf1fn4hH3gbkx0PHf91rKe49YkWAcPUTB6vgQG6cG1Kf8hVUQkwKSeIvKWHzQuLCetTVzvaDJht7OE5NZ6yhVBSeb_qO1yoIr34yGwjQWoEdKICOGKuLtecOdqbe85E7Td6i54V-nc6gf/s640/IMG_6860.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Don't you love the tradition of looking back on the sewing year that just came to an end? So let's dive into my best 5 makes, my top 5 misses, and.....o, wait. Who am I fooling? I only documented the grand total of 5 garments here in 2019!<br />
The picture above shows what I added to my winter wardrobe, a <a href="https://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2019/01/casual-winter-wear-half-zip-sweatshirt.html">Knipmode sweatshirt</a> and a <a href="https://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2019/02/a-plaid-designer-dress.html">Knipmode designer dress</a>. Both big hits and often worn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9SCNa0ApMB0C2TyQYRqTL4PaN0fdjpxXuRDAOPeAuUEmmMEa8Jx0M1ztOqLYh4NZEGoawbre1HNPLqiz3CW7gkPPjIJ6em2yaYihLqwhYKDtjEYAiHWu1XsNkY2q_8ERIv26Pq-kZvQQn/s1600/IMG_6861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9SCNa0ApMB0C2TyQYRqTL4PaN0fdjpxXuRDAOPeAuUEmmMEa8Jx0M1ztOqLYh4NZEGoawbre1HNPLqiz3CW7gkPPjIJ6em2yaYihLqwhYKDtjEYAiHWu1XsNkY2q_8ERIv26Pq-kZvQQn/s640/IMG_6861.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here's my summer output: <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2019/08/back-with-zadie-jumpsuit.html">a Zadie jumpsuit</a>, a summer version of the <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-blackwood-cardigan-with-34-sleeves.html">Blackwood cardigan</a> and a <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2019/09/the-last-summer-sewing-burdastyle-top.html">Burdastyle top</a>. Again all incredibly popular wardrobe additions!<br />
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And, although a bit silly given the numbers, the annual pie chart sorted by pattern company.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpHQtaixgXqIIxSpieWOq6Nw4UsN4zQXPTiS1yTNfCH3Typ9MEXKy25kfitcD0aRmUDl9FIE4I5Cj-8hP3s9cLWLk6_2JrKVzSRVmXO9Qqnqcbqw0yhpGEijKo3feiHYgomLFdf0fqKbPa/s1600/FullSizeRender2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="1536" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpHQtaixgXqIIxSpieWOq6Nw4UsN4zQXPTiS1yTNfCH3Typ9MEXKy25kfitcD0aRmUDl9FIE4I5Cj-8hP3s9cLWLk6_2JrKVzSRVmXO9Qqnqcbqw0yhpGEijKo3feiHYgomLFdf0fqKbPa/s640/FullSizeRender2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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On the upside I can celebrate a 100% success rate, but what happened to all those plans?? </div>
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In short: life. </div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">As you may remember I <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2019/01/five-changes-that-will-affect-my-sewing.html">started the year</a> with an improved sewing room layout, a sorted stash and a new sewing machine. I was not very satisfied with my sewing in 2018 and wanted to make more adventurous choices. And I did! A year ago I could not have imagined sewing a jumpsuit and actually LIKING it. Both the plaid dress and floral top are new to me styles as I have been experimenting with different shapes.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">The sewing room layout worked like a dream and after some cursing and threats to throw the new machine out of the window we became best friends. We bonded over working with many different fabrics. I sewed with sustainable fabrics from <a href="https://en.enschedetextielstad.nl/">Enschede Textielstad</a>, made a silk blouse, a linen jacket, cozy sleepwear in double knit jersey, experimented with decorative stitches and am now working on a boiled wool winter coat. My new Bernina passed every test with flying colours!</span></div>
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So I did in fact sew more than I showed here. But if it isn't recorded on the blog, it didn't happen.</div>
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Last year wasn't the best of years for me health wise. It's one thing to be sewing when on antibiotics or painkillers, but posing for blog pictures is something else. So one of my plans for 2020 is to deal with this this back log as soon as I can and have all my sewing notes up here, well documented and in a safe place. Those sticky notes in various notebooks drive me crazy! I hope the weather will be cooperative to take decent blog pics, and if not I do have some indoor action shots of a few of those garments that will have to do.</div>
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Of course I have a long list of sewing plans. (And too much fabric, as you didn't think I only bought fabric for five lousy projects, right?) First I'm going to pick up where I left a month ago with my winter coat. I made a muslin, altered the pattern where needed, cut all three layers and basted fashion fabric and underlining together. Somewhere in the mess that is my sewing room there must be a pile of lining pieces waiting to be marked....</div>
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When my coat is finished I hope to fill a few wardrobe gaps. I could use some summer dresses, tops, pants and sleepwear and I have a lovely fabric waiting to become a spring coat. I'll keep working on improving my sewing skills, both online in the Susan Khalje Couture Sewing Club and in real life as one of my birthday gifts is a workshop with a tailor. I'm really looking forward to that.</div>
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Here's to a wonderful and creative new sewing decade where we make all our sewing dreams come true!</div>
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-51145641790448814922019-09-30T15:06:00.000+02:002019-09-30T15:06:17.477+02:00The last summer sewing: a Burdastyle top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikTMTXBFjyl-B5xpHxaCqyIfyhK9894qG-RfRSsTQLRfJcNYy_5IcomT-yw9QLHKQiP8Cq8f6WEDqwTgoPc5gZdcjnStbiL7SE6gZjKIDS366yTUcndrY7D46Oyr3iHKHAD-4ngo4cDSeX/s1600/DSC_0551+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikTMTXBFjyl-B5xpHxaCqyIfyhK9894qG-RfRSsTQLRfJcNYy_5IcomT-yw9QLHKQiP8Cq8f6WEDqwTgoPc5gZdcjnStbiL7SE6gZjKIDS366yTUcndrY7D46Oyr3iHKHAD-4ngo4cDSeX/s640/DSC_0551+%25282%2529.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>
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We have been spoiled with a few glorious September weekends, pushing all thoughts of autumn sewing aside. So, just before putting my summer clothes and sandals away, I'd like to share one last breezy summer top I've made.<br />
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The pattern is from the Burda plusmagazine, spring/summer 2019. It's a very good one in my opinion. For this edition the designer collaborated with a German Plus size model who specifically asked not to hide but to highlight her curves. The result is a very nice and balanced collection of tops, pants, skirts, dresses, jackets and a jumpsuit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IfXYDZSz1dQr3WAexikvSk3yc6C7RgiJKS2TJ2TDmsN31lowoL8ivVWTTnJhMMby3Re11KRll7TgE96C1RTUH3yQaZwby1Xzu17Mra0px9LvjqHOT7h495V3nSBBfkZLH683nMQZAW5r/s1600/burda_PLUS_Fashion_1_2019__Wow_Effekt_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="647" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IfXYDZSz1dQr3WAexikvSk3yc6C7RgiJKS2TJ2TDmsN31lowoL8ivVWTTnJhMMby3Re11KRll7TgE96C1RTUH3yQaZwby1Xzu17Mra0px9LvjqHOT7h495V3nSBBfkZLH683nMQZAW5r/s320/burda_PLUS_Fashion_1_2019__Wow_Effekt_.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
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When I was younger I never had much success with Burda patterns. Burda drafted for a shorter and straighter shape than mine and Knipmode was a much better fit for my tall hourglass shape. Well, surprise! Since my waistline left the building I secretly morphed into a Burdagirl. The loose fitting top I'm modelling here may not be the most convincing example but I've made a few Burda blouses and a jacket for further proof. And of course that leopard dress from this magazine cover is high on my list as well!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burdaplus ss/2019, pattern 401</td></tr>
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Pretty sleeves, and a winning shoulder line that showed some skin without showing bra straps. During a trip to Rotterdam I found a lovely cotton voile in my favourite fabric shop: Schroder Modestoffen.<br />
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For the shoulders and sleeves I cut size 46 and went up a size for the bodice. In hindsight I don't think going up was necessary but I decided to leave it as I didn't feel like undoing all those tiny French seams.</div>
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Changes I've made: I self lined the flounces for a neater look. Obviously one cannot inspect one's plums without showing the insides of said flounces.</div>
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Also: Burda tells you to use grosgrain ribbon for the shoulder straps. It worked well for the striped sample but for my floral print I preferred matching straps. I finished the top, including the elastics on the top of the sleeves and then, with the help of mr Foxgloves, decided on the placement and length of the straps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhqov89kqJLX3KkxSDbFpZE10gyLJRsZCau1ws2TxwVX57twmZb-G8RcbjuFR7t5c8eEulw2AS_liLUJbn8u8KNbMJ08FKIK9NfAjARmlBi58e8L47qku9Fhp9pSliPCEkcFLfsbOIH185/s1600/DSC_0546+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhqov89kqJLX3KkxSDbFpZE10gyLJRsZCau1ws2TxwVX57twmZb-G8RcbjuFR7t5c8eEulw2AS_liLUJbn8u8KNbMJ08FKIK9NfAjARmlBi58e8L47qku9Fhp9pSliPCEkcFLfsbOIH185/s640/DSC_0546+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see below the front and back of this top look confusingly similar. The only difference being the darts, which are pretty invisible against this busy print.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqtnR0k9l2-pcytXs2t828ZqwR3U50UWWnX8K7EGKhvuiR_g1h5hoRZNUss3Zg2nk6kEkFKVXs2iFfsTzoG5XIpY_oxXlcupTNW8cDQB-a9OiVU7lRLjwZ5yXvUwRn6aClHOI_v05VmBjA/s1600/Top+front+and+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqtnR0k9l2-pcytXs2t828ZqwR3U50UWWnX8K7EGKhvuiR_g1h5hoRZNUss3Zg2nk6kEkFKVXs2iFfsTzoG5XIpY_oxXlcupTNW8cDQB-a9OiVU7lRLjwZ5yXvUwRn6aClHOI_v05VmBjA/s640/Top+front+and+back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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To make early morning dressing a little easier I added a row of decorative stitches to the back facing.<br />
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Pretty and effective. I'm so sorry to see this top go into hibernation. <br />
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I'm just terrible at sewing for a different season than the one we're in. This morning I got a little worried, knowing that I most definitely need a new winter coat. Better start planning!<br />
<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-40110772430364882862019-08-20T23:17:00.000+02:002019-08-20T23:17:00.111+02:00A Blackwood cardigan with 3/4 sleeves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEjN5AfgnO6jKIXwfkbDJ_odI6WhcHx1hiBU_WADO0U4wc5cSrQVngTvkjaJz-tLWbgxVp_PqiaLywHK01QEon9X-buaI_oGYFtGrq1rLOsKvphhFq8dn2iry3zV1VXJpUPp-FemdcHVIi/s1600/DSC_0461+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEjN5AfgnO6jKIXwfkbDJ_odI6WhcHx1hiBU_WADO0U4wc5cSrQVngTvkjaJz-tLWbgxVp_PqiaLywHK01QEon9X-buaI_oGYFtGrq1rLOsKvphhFq8dn2iry3zV1VXJpUPp-FemdcHVIi/s640/DSC_0461+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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One day I woke up with the urge to sew something yellow. Don't ask me why, as I hadn't worn yellow in ages, but I'm glad I listened to that inner voice.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiSbbomQWlS1wsF0Om3Tk9N8KclkgEfZaEeo9nBc2QAUq0CG2gmdu3E-p14eoop4tvpjMz9r4W4kT5pqeWaNkYWSP97xd1nr1k8_DZfa4irfbt3SNTi_1qxM8e3cuV0wHRO3zXfcrxhERH/s1600/IMG_2618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiSbbomQWlS1wsF0Om3Tk9N8KclkgEfZaEeo9nBc2QAUq0CG2gmdu3E-p14eoop4tvpjMz9r4W4kT5pqeWaNkYWSP97xd1nr1k8_DZfa4irfbt3SNTi_1qxM8e3cuV0wHRO3zXfcrxhERH/s640/IMG_2618.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This sight made me smile everytime I entered my sewing room.<br />
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The only fabric I could find in a shade that worked for me was a lightweight cotton jersey. So the fabric determined what I would make: Blackwood cardigan #5.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gDrgZWdjlXSeVxFXOgAw8Tnr2kgCysP15ZQs37bOD-NLjhgVZbVA9yXOp1ZxiAVABfOyMFSG-eCfc6oZTLYcv2A0HUYLPDskJtM-7Zdb7-u33hNCsxwGZh5mMLhiOsNJnBCIgLSbLvv9/s1600/blackwood-cardigan-illustration.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gDrgZWdjlXSeVxFXOgAw8Tnr2kgCysP15ZQs37bOD-NLjhgVZbVA9yXOp1ZxiAVABfOyMFSG-eCfc6oZTLYcv2A0HUYLPDskJtM-7Zdb7-u33hNCsxwGZh5mMLhiOsNJnBCIgLSbLvv9/s320/blackwood-cardigan-illustration.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/blackwood-cardigan-pdf-pattern/">Blackwood cardigan by Helen's Closet</a></td></tr>
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<br />I started with big plans. The long version with trumpet sleeves, or ruffles? When I draped myself in the fabric the amount of yellow was ... overwhelming, so I decided to make the shorter version. Statement sleeves were still an option. <div>
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I had made the shorter version twice before and did not like how the horizontal line of the wide bottom band hit me at the high hip. So the first change I made was cut the bottom band the same width as the front bands. Then I added the difference to the length of front and back bodice so the overall length stayed the same.</div>
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For the sleeves I experimented with a half circle flounce, a pleated band and a gathered ruffle, all starting just below the elbow. None of it worked. The Blackwood has rather strong and clean style lines with those parallel front bands and the 90 degrees angle with the hem band. Just doesn't blend well with a softer sleeve finish. So I made the next logical change and cut sleeve bands that had the same width as the other bands. And all of a sudden it looked like a balanced hack!</div>
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I've shared most of my thoughts about this pattern in earlier posts (<a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/04/two-blackwood-cardigans.html">Blackwood 1&2</a>, <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/09/blackwood-in-braga.html">#3</a>, <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/12/a-4-in-1-remake-roundup.html">#4</a>) and I like how they all look so different. This summer edition gets tons of wear. The short sleeves are very practical in the kitchen and in the garden (see top picture). Instead of a static photo shoot I'll end with a few action shots of this new favourite. </div>
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During a city trip, with a sleeveless Ottobre top and Cashmerette Ames Jeans.<br />
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Enjoying music and Mexican food at a bluegrass festival<br />
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And in the sewing room, celebrating the first anniversary of Sewover50.<br />
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Speaking of the Sewover50 birthday, a small group of sewists was interviewed by Susan Young and I was one of them. You can read the interview <a href="https://susanyoungsewing.wordpress.com/2019/08/18/its-our-birthday-sew-over-50-12-months-on/">here</a> if you're interested.<br />
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That's it for now. My head is spinning with sewing plans and summer is coming back at the end of this week. No fall sewing for me yet!<br />
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Till later!<br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-87233575519924947352019-08-11T14:52:00.000+02:002019-08-21T18:01:15.625+02:00Back with a Zadie jumpsuit!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3YU9qaqbFpaKHBvjlUSRVRxlRdkRgZvtk-T1r9SKVoDy77YSD5bA7Xe-a9epRb9KokWlmejfAWhage-fOxsKOOV-j1PBj3zVqsAVibrm5zplRIoErp6Rd0xvpNHGl40dgHWynRPwRnz9Y/s1600/DSC_0397+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3YU9qaqbFpaKHBvjlUSRVRxlRdkRgZvtk-T1r9SKVoDy77YSD5bA7Xe-a9epRb9KokWlmejfAWhage-fOxsKOOV-j1PBj3zVqsAVibrm5zplRIoErp6Rd0xvpNHGl40dgHWynRPwRnz9Y/s640/DSC_0397+%25284%2529.JPG" width="638" /></a></div>
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Hi! It's been a while! In my previous post I was standing in the snow having zero intention of putting this blog on halt for over six months. But then a string of unrelated medical issues interfered with my plans. I kept sewing, but it's not hard to imagine that when you're on a diet of painkillers and antibiotics taking selfies is not high on the list. I'm as good as new now and happy to be back!<br />
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At the beginning of the year I promised myself to make 2019 more adventurous sewing wise. Ah, little did I know... Well, I did manage to make a few unexpected choices in recent months. Who knew I'd want to sew a jumpsuit? I checked, and the last time I did was in 1982!<br />
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I think it was the wrap that got me interested in the <a href="https://www.papertheory.com/zadie-jumpsuit?tag=environment">Zadie Jumpsuit</a> by Paper Theory. My wrap dresses are firm favourites, so why not try something related?<br />
My measurements put me in a size 20 and I decided to make a quick toile.<br />
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Uhm, no. Unfinished and unpressed, as I was about to throw it in the bin at this stage. I decided to give mr Foxgloves a good laugh first but much to my surprise he saw the potential of this garment. The verdict: overall too big, fabric on the heavy side and 'weird spoilers' above the bust. All excellent observations!<br />
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I decided to go down a size, do a small FBA and add darts. I found the fabric of my dreams during a trip to Rotterdam. It's a drapy rayon from <a href="https://www.schrodermodestoffen.nl/?fbclid=IwAR2u_a9oIP7Plx51bWKIWwZmARlsaPT07VH3Ayrf6RzVWp25iFUMOtnlcZE">Schroder modestoffen</a>.<br />
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Apart from the FBA / bust darts I made a few other changes. I used lightweight interfacing to give the ties a crisp look and angled the ends. I also changed the finished width of the ties from 3 to 4.5 cm for better proportions and lengthened them by 10 cm.<br />
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Sizing down was a good call, and perhaps I could have gone down another size. Hard to tell with these loose fitting styles. When does a wide leg turn into a too wide leg?<br />
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Despite the FBA and bust darts there is still some folding above the bust. Probably inevitable with cut on sleeves on my busty frame. The folds disappear when I move my arms and I did not want to over fit. Same goes for the crotch length. The crotch felt a little low at first, but a trial run to the supermarket proved the extra length is much appreciated when bending over or reaching for high shelves.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTH_mw60G7IUkg3RQ5aQnYaxuauJAbijM3ijd1B1vKWFeD0It1ARMN3Ttacoa4XL9k8fo5PzoEExUMIRLF5DOvy4L4AltKRY7ty377ZNPbPB-5XTdI3Fj1R63ITkKS8RXIjoRMt-R2oYk/s1600/DSC_0437+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTH_mw60G7IUkg3RQ5aQnYaxuauJAbijM3ijd1B1vKWFeD0It1ARMN3Ttacoa4XL9k8fo5PzoEExUMIRLF5DOvy4L4AltKRY7ty377ZNPbPB-5XTdI3Fj1R63ITkKS8RXIjoRMt-R2oYk/s640/DSC_0437+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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There's one thing I will change for a next version. My front waist seam ended up a little too low as a result of the FBA. The ties automatically sit at my true waist and the waist seam does not. (Back waist seam is fine) For the time being I'm okay with that. Taking out any length will make wiggling into this jumpsuit even harder than it already is. (One of my medical issues was an acute hernia so my acrobatic skills aren't top notch at the moment)<br />
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I'm very happy with this style experiment! I'm considering making a navy version for autumn. Perhaps turn the pleats into darts and change the bias tape finish for a facing to create a slightly more formal look.<br />
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But now it's harvest time Chez Foxgloves! Apples, plums, raspberries. All kinds of cooking, baking and freezing going on. Till next time!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-91682226963820930382019-02-02T14:43:00.000+01:002019-02-02T14:43:43.586+01:00A plaid designer dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's only the first of February and I've already matched last year's dress production! And what's more, I've made an A-line dress (last worn by me in the late 70s) and I used a plaid fabric. I've checked my wardrobe and this is officially the only plaid garment I own. So, quite adventurous for someone who made too many safe sewing choices in 2018. In retrospection I worked on automatic pilot last year and got a little bored by my own sewing. For instance, that <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/06/roses-all-over-vogue-8379.html">one and only dress</a> I made last year was my sixth version of Vogue 8379. All the more reason to do things differently this year!</div>
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I want to try new silhouettes, work with a wide range of fabrics, colours and prints and use different pattern brands. It's been ages since I've sewn Burda or Butterick, to name a few.</div>
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And of course I'm going to sew ALL the dresses.</div>
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The pattern I chose for my first dress of 2019 is a Knipmode designer dress from the 'Jurken van Janice" collection. It appeared in the November 2018 magazine and is also available online as <a href="https://knipmode.nl/shop/patronen/jurk-21-knip-november-2018/">pdf or paper pattern</a> in European sizes 34-54 (bust 83-131 cm / 33-52 ", hips 92-138 cm / 36-54 ")<br />
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What caught my attention were the pretty design details. The bodice is cut on the bias, sleeves on the straight grain. A collar with ties and fringe at the bottom of the sleeves. There were no specifics given for the fabric that was used for the sample and I had a length of wool blend suiting that looked like a perfect match. I made a quick toile, mostly to check dart placement and to determine on the length so I had the best possible start for matching the plaid.</div>
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Everything came together well until I constructed the collar. Note to self: Shortcuts will backfire. Always include collar to test model!</div>
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Per the instructions I used lightweight fusible interfacing and the collar collapsed. I tried extra interfacing, a layer of silk organza and even a strip of horsehair canvas but the collar still looked limp, no matter what. I could make it look like the Knipmode sample for five seconds, but the slightest movement would throw the neckline off. </div>
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I checked social media for other versions of this dress and everyone mentioned the same issue with the collar, except for sewists that were using a more firm fabric like ponte. But then of course the fabric lacked the drape needed for the bias cut bodice. </div>
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I took the collar off and tried a few different options, like a cowl and an asymmetric collar. Nothing looked good, or in line with the rest of the design. I slept over it and then decided to go for what looked like the most obvious route. I reduced the neckline width by taking in the raglan seams and finished the neckline with bias tape and more fringe.</div>
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The dress is unlined. If I made it again I would probably use some type of very lightweight underling for the bodice, although it wears well as it is.</div>
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Making the fringe required some patience as this fabric has such a fine weave.</div>
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The threads were pulled out with a pin, right up to a line of zigzag stitches, placed to stop any further unravelling. And then I made another layer because I wanted more volume. For the sleeves I made a double strip and used it as a facing. The strips were serged together, stitched on the sleeves with right sides together and then understitched on the inside of the sleeve. A little press was enough to skip the topstitching as I liked the clean look of the pattern matched plaid and fringe.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside (left) and right side of the sleeve hem</td></tr>
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Although this dress is not my usual style and I absolutely prefer brighter fabrics and some kind of waist definition, I quite like it. The plaid was a nice experiment but it feels a little too classic for me, especially when styled with pantyhose and heels. Tights, ankle boots and a chunky necklace make it work and I've already worn it for a variety of occasions. Apart from the initial collar issue it was a joy to make and the fabric was lovely to work with. </div>
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Many thanks to Mr Foxgloves for patiently taking pictures in the snow and to the Furry Assistant for being the best support act during this production.</div>
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On to the next sewing adventure!</div>
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-88939629560890099492019-01-26T20:56:00.000+01:002019-01-27T14:30:19.571+01:00Casual winter wear: a half zip sweatshirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnuRWPrtLzMMHqHdSMygde7c5XLj36xj20IzBin4akkbZ3DLqLFtih2YNIjFFKDK_DUUimGJtYdC2SnY2oIE71csII0fglsj_MZSf_72eIGsEEmn2IJI_t4ISrrj74kgPK9dbUNw_D5LNh/s1600/IMG_1579+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnuRWPrtLzMMHqHdSMygde7c5XLj36xj20IzBin4akkbZ3DLqLFtih2YNIjFFKDK_DUUimGJtYdC2SnY2oIE71csII0fglsj_MZSf_72eIGsEEmn2IJI_t4ISrrj74kgPK9dbUNw_D5LNh/s640/IMG_1579+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Winter is here! And what better time to model your new sweater than during a snow shower?<br />
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When the January issue of Knipmode arrived there was one pattern that immediately attracted my attention. It reminded me of one of my all time favourite sweatshirts and I had not seen anything like this pattern in the last decade. At the same time I noticed many RTW brands carrying this type of half zip sweater, which was reassuring as apparently the style was on trend and I was not just recreating an image from the past.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBeOnk1gvzWrIC9_12HrWuwZ80_IDofGXcoBL3BtiCGFew1M6x2WBsAlgzMT-xgd9uWBe16j4_Y8N1pWstgaPMucc6cS6GXa5Y8pwiSEr2isQqnGuUK1jEJTHcigHUyOSAR5P7YCd6ILFj/s1600/line+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBeOnk1gvzWrIC9_12HrWuwZ80_IDofGXcoBL3BtiCGFew1M6x2WBsAlgzMT-xgd9uWBe16j4_Y8N1pWstgaPMucc6cS6GXa5Y8pwiSEr2isQqnGuUK1jEJTHcigHUyOSAR5P7YCd6ILFj/s640/line+drawing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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KM1901-15 is online available <a href="https://knipmode.nl/shop/patronen/jurk-15-knipmode-januari-2019/">as pdf or printed pattern</a> in the Knipmode webshop.<br />
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Although it looks very comfortable as a dress as well (and I've seen a few pretty versions with contrasting fabric for the under collar pop up on Instagram), I really wanted a sweater version first. I'm not of fan of pockets in knits so I just cut off the pattern at my desired length.<br />
It was easy sailing from there on, as the oversized nature and dropped shoulders meant that there were no fitting issues of any kind. The only adjustment I made was lengthening the sleeves with 5 cm, and then taking 1 cm off again after the final fitting round.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JwiJUHhkpH1MlGUBhTPc0iRi9XrrLOD_OiEdZsG6ZLrUCZAdUCzHzUJnWqerOQIuKazQ3ZXTz-FF7KdKEy52ugwUhSSPtq7jkyy7Y_GTdHU_aB1NrvJk7p0PH6uMIQhEhfyJGKXBlbnc/s1600/IMG_1472+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JwiJUHhkpH1MlGUBhTPc0iRi9XrrLOD_OiEdZsG6ZLrUCZAdUCzHzUJnWqerOQIuKazQ3ZXTz-FF7KdKEy52ugwUhSSPtq7jkyy7Y_GTdHU_aB1NrvJk7p0PH6uMIQhEhfyJGKXBlbnc/s640/IMG_1472+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fabric is a lovely pine green cotton knit with a brushed back. It is almost impossible to capture the shade, as inside it looks rather grey and in the garden it is, well, as green as the taxus and pines in the backdrop.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKkS9EkQko4LvC2kRAvN9dKX4RVvC8gsOs7PC2cYrY7fsRgYsl1nwElZ0bbkefXhc0Dcj_Ylq3nDywp64QIh9l3qeqOlQsONJ2oyKXEMfsM4ocAqH5788k8fNUi-apucqVLcTtqGdqm2ZP/s1600/IMG_1497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKkS9EkQko4LvC2kRAvN9dKX4RVvC8gsOs7PC2cYrY7fsRgYsl1nwElZ0bbkefXhc0Dcj_Ylq3nDywp64QIh9l3qeqOlQsONJ2oyKXEMfsM4ocAqH5788k8fNUi-apucqVLcTtqGdqm2ZP/s640/IMG_1497.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm pleased with the metal zipper as it provides a subtle focus point, like adding piping to the collar. This was one of the first garments sewn on my new machine and it was a perfect project to try out different feet, play with presser foot pressure and practice topstitching with the wider feed dogs. Very happy so far!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMC9jFJUbsrvdGDRS47TbVoaJp90gUk7ADQqxuIRFMfP-Li6YKYBSTQOAdXoZkOoHCudzAllPKmLbxIXvFtF2yYjJAJsE74c1QNuk3lnJRqhdb-g8chi5FxIG12PLURNYCVszKrQf4qLYn/s1600/IMG_1599+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMC9jFJUbsrvdGDRS47TbVoaJp90gUk7ADQqxuIRFMfP-Li6YKYBSTQOAdXoZkOoHCudzAllPKmLbxIXvFtF2yYjJAJsE74c1QNuk3lnJRqhdb-g8chi5FxIG12PLURNYCVszKrQf4qLYn/s640/IMG_1599+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZBXML8zIc7NntqCydHqnLJYCqURWDilPxBaisUWyfo7UY17RKNmbifVzHLAr_YZk1kuUcGXLyqKS-I0X9s1uzcS-CrM1t2xv3WIUZz9GQn6TiGY6lziZPbD4ZxJxTIk7qqyYqHyGiEsI/s1600/IMG_1608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZBXML8zIc7NntqCydHqnLJYCqURWDilPxBaisUWyfo7UY17RKNmbifVzHLAr_YZk1kuUcGXLyqKS-I0X9s1uzcS-CrM1t2xv3WIUZz9GQn6TiGY6lziZPbD4ZxJxTIk7qqyYqHyGiEsI/s640/IMG_1608.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view<br />
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I prefer to wear the collar open and I like the look of some of my scoop neck Concord and Plantain tees underneath. </div>
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But when it's -8 Celsius it's nice to zip up!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGy5D1p5SNcG801L_U38Zfa_VvvCrJ0klVg0AHmtZwAmminCMXsRvpTPkhnyTDSK5S-QmApXc42ip1_w8P6uiAPmJe3W8-rBPH6m8-fUE1BjGtvBwAx6wmn56fYF4IEaEGzlmu4da6_Z8X/s1600/IMG_1614+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGy5D1p5SNcG801L_U38Zfa_VvvCrJ0klVg0AHmtZwAmminCMXsRvpTPkhnyTDSK5S-QmApXc42ip1_w8P6uiAPmJe3W8-rBPH6m8-fUE1BjGtvBwAx6wmn56fYF4IEaEGzlmu4da6_Z8X/s640/IMG_1614+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Whatever the weather, happy weekend!<br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-4880280851222812482019-01-24T14:35:00.000+01:002019-01-24T14:35:53.191+01:00Giveaway winner<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHmLdyl9_tFAnaW1vFpUyxYufg5ki-wt_bPbNyXu6DcIgSo6SGPMaP03YSlYPY21dYe_NWBPRVp-BxAXCWkB3k6up0280kwlTt1S-C2vOQoTN3hmK4Cj9MPwggIrfRv76XN88gPvQNNIA0/s1600/IMG_1665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHmLdyl9_tFAnaW1vFpUyxYufg5ki-wt_bPbNyXu6DcIgSo6SGPMaP03YSlYPY21dYe_NWBPRVp-BxAXCWkB3k6up0280kwlTt1S-C2vOQoTN3hmK4Cj9MPwggIrfRv76XN88gPvQNNIA0/s640/IMG_1665.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And the winner is.......................................<b>Mary-pdxsquared</b>.<br />
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Congratulations Mary! Time to roll up your sleeves and start tracing!<br />
If you contact me on foxglovesandthimbles@gmail.com the January Knipmode magazine will be shipped to you as soon as possible.<br />
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The winner was selected by numbering the comments from those of you who wanted their name in the hat, in chronological order. The randomizer did the rest.<br />
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Thank you all for your comments!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-15730579973530944442019-01-17T01:38:00.000+01:002019-01-17T09:54:11.137+01:00Review Knipmode January and February 2019 and a giveaway<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Back by popular demand: the monthly review of pattern magazine Knipmode. A double edition, because although we're barely two weeks into 2019 I'm already two months behind!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pattern overview Knipmode January 2019</td></tr>
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The January issue offers a few winter coats, as well as jackets and cardigans.<br />
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The long camel coat comes with separate pattern pieces for a large detachable faux fur collar for a dramatic look. The line drawing for the jacket on the left (#25) suggests more of a flare in the peplum than the sample shows, something that is seen more often lately. (I just put the toile for a Knipmode blouse aside where the statement sleeve wasn't making much of a statement at all)</div>
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Plenty of useful basics in this issue, some of them are pictured in a 'seven days, seven ways' mix & match collection. Nice way of showing how to make a capsule wardrobe by choosing coordinated colours and fabrics.</div>
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This month's designer dress (21) is on trend with Victorian style pintucks, bowneck and puff sleeves. Not sure why the designer chose a busy cat print for such a detailed design?</div>
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The new quick and easy category is aimed at young beginners. The dress and hooded cardigan share the same pattern pieces and there's also a sweater version with a cowl in the mix. I like this idea of offering an easy to fit pattern with the option to learn new skills like adding pockets or a zipper on the next version.</div>
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A sleek jersey dress, a romantic skirt and high waisted stretch pants with a side zipper. All nice patterns that could be wardrobe staples when paired with the right fabric.<br />
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For me the January highlight was the sweater dress on the left. So much so that I'm already wearing it as we speak. I made a sweater version in a pine green sweater knit and that zippered neckline is wonderful.<br />
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Read on for a giveaway of the January magazine!<br />
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But first more on the February edition.<br />
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This issue seems to be in the 'love it or hate it' category. On social media readers are either saying they want to make absolutely everything, or they won't bother to take out the pattern sheets at all. </div>
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I'm surprised by these strong reactions as so many different styles made it into this magazine.</div>
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The first impression is that of a rather sporty vibe.</div>
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A solid active wear collection. At least the accessories suggest this is meant to be worn in the gym. </div>
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Or not?<br />
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Hybrids? The most puzzling of this lot is the dress on the right, which has a kangaroo style pocket that goes all the way from waistline to hem. Imagine your phone ringing at knee level! Not to mention diving down your skirt to track down tiny dog treats. </div>
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And now for something completely different: Parisian chic. A classic dress, Chanel style jacket, also in a longer robe manteau version, and a silk pussy bow blouse.</div>
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And in the miscellaneous section there are several pants, tunics and skirts.</div>
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Last but not least the designer dress (21). A beautiful wrap bodice and a pretty ruched skirt.</div>
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Earlier I mentioned a giveaway. One that marks a special, albeit forgotten, occasion. </div>
<i>I completely forgot to celebrate my first lustrum as a blogger! </i><br />
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In September 2013 I started my blog, mostly to document what I made and as a way to remember the pattern adjustments I made. Blogging may be a wee bit more time consuming than writing on a sticky note, it's also much safer. I've never lost my project notes again!</div>
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Five years ago I could never imagine I would still be blogging today. And I certainly could not foresee how this blog would lead to meeting so many wonderful sewing friends from all over the world, both online and in real life. </div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">To celebrate this milestone I will send a copy of the January Knipmode magazine to one follower of this blog who is</span><span style="text-align: center;"> brave enough to trace, who is not easily scared by pattern pieces without seam allowances and who will fearlessly tackle that other <span style="font-size: xx-small;">(sorry!)</span> minor roadblock, formed by Dutch instructions.</span></h4>
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Just let me know if you're in for the challenge, I will send worldwide.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Your comments and support are always much appreciated. </span>Thank you all so much for following along!</div>
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<i style="background-color: white; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;">Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copies and all opinions are my own. Patterns are available as pdf or printed pattern in the Knipmode webshop. Photocredits: Knipmode</i></div>
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-62453909617209539272019-01-05T18:48:00.003+01:002019-01-05T21:04:45.617+01:00Five changes that will affect my sewing in 2019<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is what my sewing room looked like at the beginning of 2018. Many things have changed, both in- and outside the sewing room and these changes will all affect my sewing in the coming year.<br />
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I'm not much of a planner so I thought that instead of doing a #makenine or show a list of patterns I want to make any time soon I'd tell more about those small and not so small changes to picture the context of my sewing choices for 2019.<br />
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<b>#1 Changing the layout of my sewing room</b><br />
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At the beginning of the year mr Foxgloves helped me create a cutting table by changing the legs of one of my tables for Ikea Skarsta sit/stand height adjustable legs. More on that <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/02/sewing-room-improvements.html">here</a>.<br />
This makes me more productive as my back doesn't need a few days to recover from tracing or cutting.<br />
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What else could be improved? I'd been using this room for six years and I decided it was time for a comprehensive evaluation. I started by moving the furniture around.<br />
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The L-shape worked much better! I always thought I wouldn't like looking at a wall but I was wrong. It feels like my workspace has doubled, since I can use the cutting/handsewing table for extra bits and bobs while I'm sewing.<br />
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I also moved my sewing books. They were out of reach behind the ironing board, not the best place for easy access. So I moved some wooden boxes with older pattern magazines to that spot and now have my reference books right where I need them. It only took me six years to come up with this brilliant plan.<br />
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Next. Well, you can't overhaul the sewing room and ignore the fabric collection, right? So I took everything out.<br />
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<b>#2 Sorting and measuring my fabrics</b><br />
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Back in the days when the systems weren't as refined as they are now, I had my colours done and one of the things I took away from that was that blue was a good colour for me. Over the years I bought all kinds of blue fabric. I loved them all, but they didn't all love me back. I found out the hard way when 100+ hours of handsewing on a <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2017/06/vogue-7975-finished-french-jacket.html">Chanel jacket</a> ended in a garment that looked better on the hanger than it did on me.<br />
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Last year I scheduled a new appointment with a colour consultant who asked me to bring a few garments. I bended the rules a little by bringing a suitcase of <i>potential</i> garments in the form of fabrics. She had never had a dressmaker come in for a consult before and we had some interesting discussions about the freedom to create your own style and the challenges that come with making a garment from scratch. She acknowledged it was a waste of precious sewing time to work with fabrics that did not fully suit me and we tackled that suitcase, one piece at the time. At the end of the day I knew the distinction between warm and cool blue, muted, bright and dark blue and what worked for me and what didn't. And of course I learned a lot about other colours, colour depths and levels of contrast as well.<br />
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I used my newfound knowledge to sort my stash. I put fabrics aside to use for toiles and donated a few pieces to friends with different colourings. Some of these fabrics had been there for two decades and I knew I'd never use them. Can you picture me in beige? Me neither.<br />
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While all the fabrics were out of storage I thought I might as well measure everything before it went back into the closet. I now have a binder with swatches, lengths and other relevant information of all pieces. After 42 years of collecting fabrics the penny finally dropped.<br />
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My fabric cabinet is an old baby dresser that is 60 cm deep. I fold the fabrics over a piece of cardboard to make the best use of the limited space.<br />
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The curated collection. Not perfect yet, but slowly getting there. (These are all woven fabrics, there's also a smaller cabinet with knits)<br />
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<b>#3 Joining Susan Khalje's Couture Sewing Club</b><br />
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Then, at the end of the summer, I realised I didn't challenge myself enough sewing wise. As nice as it is to have well fitting tees and cardigans in my wardrobe, making them hardly gives me a sense of accomplishment. I wanted to learn new skills and make better use of the skills I already have. Right at that time Susan Khalje launched her <a href="https://susankhalje.com/pages/susan-khalje-couture-sewing-club">Couture Sewing Club</a>. I jumped on board immediately!<br />
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So far it's been wonderful to be part of this group and I have learned a lot, both from Susan and from other members. The reason I have not started my first project, a couture skirt, has to do with yet another set of changes.<br />
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<b>#4 Weight loss</b><br />
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In July I made a few lifestyle changes. As a result I have lost over 10 kg/22 lbs during the second half of 2018. Although I don't think I look that different, I can go in and out of my jeans without using the zipper. I have put off using my best fabrics for a while, but now I really need to make a few things that don't fall down when I move. The question is: will I make a fitted skirt, at least one that fits temporarily, or shall I wear wrap dresses until I know where my waist measurements will end?<br />
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<b>#5 A new sewing machine</b><br />
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While I couldn't decide on what to make next I made another big change, at least for me it is. After sewing on my (mechanical) Bernina 1030 for 31 years I bought a new Bernina 570 QE.<br />
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Here she is, right after the unboxing ritual. Protective plastic and all, oops.<br />
It's my first computerized machine, and there most definitely is a learning curve. We gave each other the side eye more than once, but after a few weeks I can say we're bonding.<br />
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I've made a start on creating a stitch library and am now exploring the endless possibilities of this beautiful machine. Dual feed, adjustable and automatic presser foot pressure, the pivot/hover function, it's all new to me. I'm working my way through the manual and I found a workbook and plenty of videos online, which is a nice way to get acquainted with this machine at my own pace. My dealer suggested I'd schedule my lessons at a later time so we wouldn't waste one-on-one time on the basics that I could easily find out myself. Sound advice! I'm creating a little list with subjects I'd like to delve in deeper during my lessons. I will write a sewing machine review, as some of you have asked for on Instagram, in a few weeks time when I hopefully master all ins and outs.<br />
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Now how will all these changes influence my 2019 sewing plans?<br />
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With the improved sewing room flow, sorted stash and new machine everything is ready for action!<br />
The weight loss means I need to take in my clothes where possible and start building a new wardrobe later on. Ideally I'll alternate quick and practical projects to fill wardrobe gaps with more involved projects and I aim to use couture techniques on a few timeless pieces.<br />
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I'm really excited about this new sewing year!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-76030042943879717462018-12-31T20:12:00.001+01:002018-12-31T20:12:05.246+01:00My year in patterns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is what my sewing year looks like in line drawings. The bare bones of what I made.<br />
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It's interesting for me to look back on this very last day of the year as what I made is always a reflection of what my year looked like. I sew what I wear and I wear what I sew.<br />
So if I made sleeveless tops that's a sign of a warm summer, or a holiday in southern Europe (actually both, in 2018) No new evening wear or party dresses means there were few formal or festive events this year. No coats, as my winter coats were still in good shape and I barely wore coats during summer.<br />
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In 2018 I made twenty garments. Nineteen for me, one for mr Foxgloves.<br />
Let's take a closer look. I won't bore you with a ton of links but if you want to go to the original blogpost you'll find the links on the top of this page under 'Sewn'.<br />
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Clockwise:<br />
1) a pink Knipmode sweater (KM1801-25) with a lovely neckline. It's soft, warm and comfortable and I wear it a lot.<br />
2) The black midi skirt Knipmode KM1711-08) is not worn that often, but it's a timeless classic and good to know it's there I want something dressy.<br />
3) A pair of black Cashmerette Ames Jeans. It initially had wrinkles at the back of the leg, an issue that was fixed by taking the legs apart (imagine ripping serged-stitched-topstitched seams, all black on black), reducing the length of the back leg above the knee and adding the same amount at the hem. Worked incredibly well, worn very often.<br />
4) Simplicity 1563. Very happy with the decision to line this robe with satin. Feels luxurious and I've worn it every morning, except during heatwaves. By far the most worn garment of 2018!<br />
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5) McCalls 6436, a button down shirt in viscose. No gaping at the bust, by far the best fitting shirt I've owned in the last decade. Note to self: make a plain version next year.<br />
6/7) Two Helen's Closet Blackwood cardigans. Wardrobe staples.<br />
8) A Cashmerette Concord Tshirt hack. V neck in the front and back with ties. An absolute summer favourite. The only downside: the rayon knit is growing and the shirt got longer and longer with each wear. I need to take up the hem when it comes out of winter storage.<br />
9/10) Two knit tops from Ottobre 2/2014. The tops are lined, which gives them a very clean finish. Both tops are mostly worn under jackets or with a cardigan, perfect layering pieces. If I make them again I will alter the armholes and go down a size.<br />
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11) Vogue 8379. A wrap dress in a loud floral print. Definitely a winner!<br />
12) A breezy blouse, Knipmode KM1708-24. Can't wait for the first sunshine to wear this again.<br />
13/14 Two Helen's Closet Blackwood cardigans. The pink version is the least succesfull of the four I have made this year. The cotton jersey has barely enough stretch for the pattern. The emerald version is the best of the lot. Lovely colour that goes with everything and a super leightweight drapey rayon.<br />
15) Fail! Nice Knipmode pattern, peasant blouse KM1803-103, beautiful broderie Anglaise in the most perfect royal blue. Just not a winning match between pattern and fabric.<br />
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16/17) Two renditions of the Cashmerette Concord T-shirt. A nightgown, finished with lingerie elastics. A refashioned blue and white tee with elbow length sleeves. Both in heavy rotation.<br />
18) A navy Deer and Doe Plantain shirt. Very basic, very useful around the house.<br />
19) Menswear! A Knipmode bomber jacket (KM1704-23). Mr F likes it, but due to my unseasonal finishing of this light summer jacket in late autumn it did not get much wear so far.<br />
20) A peplum top, Knipmode KM1803-12. Nice pattern, lovely print but sadly the fabric is not wearing well as it is prone to snagging and pilling.<br />
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All in all a rather succesfull year with one fail out of 20 garments, and two cases of disappointing fabric. All garments but one (the failed peasant blouse) have been worn often or very often or probably will be worn often in the right season. In addition to the 19 items I've sewn for myself I only bought one pair of RTW jeans.<br />
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To keep my wardrobe balanced it's good to look at what I did NOT sew this year. I already mentioned the lack of coats, also no jackets for me. Next year I need a new winter coat and I can certainly use a few jackets. With just a single dress and a single skirt sewn in 2018 I'm looking forward to sewing more skirts and dresses next year! <br />
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It's only a few years ago that I started sewing with knit fabrics on a regular basis. Things have changed, his year the knits are winning.<br />
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And finally some statistics for the patterns I've used:<br />
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O dear, that's not adding up to 20! Knipmode should be 6, but it's New Year's Eve and the traditional 'oliebollen' are waiting for me so this will have to do.<br />
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Thank you all for following along and for your support, helpful tips and wonderful comments.<br />
Being part of this worldwide sewing community has truly broadened my horizon!<br />
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Happy New Year!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-75037081749928459522018-12-21T15:46:00.000+01:002018-12-21T15:46:19.512+01:00Sewing for men: a bomber jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sewing menswear is one of my favourite things to do. Finding interesting patterns is often the hardest part, so I was very happy to see a men's capsule wardrobe pop up in pattern magazine Knipmode last year.<br />
The April 2017 issue had a pattern for a bomber jacket that I wanted to make straight away. Well, sort of. It only took me 18 months to actually start ;)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4UVRxZElNNFjonCyyINVlmmyl4tmx8HYR3nCHVAZv06KlBncGyQe4ezuF9wmg83yn0dLZM_NCpT9X_PWzWz-jeJlUrmGKgxFcgHhg5WIeyNTWv8k9l1zFpFbh0SifAwSoEdiJQ2hPHzqb/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1443" data-original-width="1502" height="614" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4UVRxZElNNFjonCyyINVlmmyl4tmx8HYR3nCHVAZv06KlBncGyQe4ezuF9wmg83yn0dLZM_NCpT9X_PWzWz-jeJlUrmGKgxFcgHhg5WIeyNTWv8k9l1zFpFbh0SifAwSoEdiJQ2hPHzqb/s640/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KM1704-23</td></tr>
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The pattern is still available as pdf or printed pattern here in the <a href="https://knipmode.nl/shop/patronen/bomberjack-3/">Knipmode webshop</a><br />
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When I'm sewing for mr Foxgloves I always need to make length adjustments. He is 1.96 m tall and the pattern is drafted for 1.84 m. So before ordering the zippers I made flat pattern adjustments, followed by a muslin.<br />
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The muslin gave rise to mixed reactions. On IG someone mentioned it would make a nice garment for a 80-year old, while others (including mr F) liked it. Given the lack of plaid matching - amongst other flaws - I decided that no husband of mine would be seen out in public in this garment. I had to act fast and deconstruct it immediately, as mr Foxgloves had already declared this his perfect gardening jacket.<br />
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We had a little debate about the best length for a bomber jacket, which was settled when we saw the tv weather man sport two different bomber jackets on consecutive days. We agreed that one was obviously too long, while the other version was just right.<br />
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For the outer shell I used a navy cotton twill. The jacket is half lined and there was a request for a colourful paisley lining. I searched high and low but couldn't find it. We went for a flannel plaid in matching shades of blue from the stash, but there definitely needed to be more colour on the insides. Hong Kong seam finishing was the way to go!<br />
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When you go to the trouble of sewing over 9 meters of Hong Kong seams it's nice to see the recipient appreciates your efforts!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See?</td></tr>
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<br />The pattern has a few nice details, like padded and quilted shoulder yokes, large pockets and a smaller zipped pocket on the left sleeve.<div>
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Except for the length adjustments and adding a hanging loop I didn't change a thing.<br />
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The tiny pocket is perfect for a bank card or some coins and is used on Saturday morning's bike run for freshly baked buns.<br />
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What more is there to say? Perhaps you're wondering about arm movement?<br />
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Check!<br />
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The back?<br />
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Yeah. When your model starts frolicking around you know the session is over.<br />
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One last one, just because.<br />
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Mr Foxgloves is very happy with his jacket and I'm planning to sew for him more often. On weekdays he's always wearing serious business attire so it's nice to have casual garments with a fun and personalized twist.<br />
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Ehm, did I mention serious business attire??<br />
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Happy holidays!<br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-17546262196683644922018-12-11T11:36:00.001+01:002018-12-11T11:36:39.426+01:00A floral peplum top <br />
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As some of you will know I'm a gardener who often disappears from the blogosphere during the summer months. Summer is for the foxgloves, winter for the thimbles. Except, this year we had what felt like a never ending summer, followed by an Indian summer, and then some more fine days. Less sewing, but lots of outdoor fun!<br />
On one of these glorious days in early autumn we were invited to a garden party in the woods.<br />
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I always struggle when part of the dress code says casual. Casual, casual chic, business casual....Definitely not a party dress and heels, but also not my lawn mowing-type casual outfit. Invite me for a formal event and I immediately start planning and sewing an outfit, but I've been terrible at this casual stuff all my life.<br />
For this occasion inspiration finally came from a piece of floral fabric.<br />
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A scuba knit with a pretty digital rose print on a dark navy background. It was my first time working with scuba and I did not know what to expect. Because I did not want to break up the pattern in too many places I started looking for a top with cut on sleeves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPanea5v8X8db3jj_10gqDrfVNveJ3I0AMR-coMZVNmS1w0rldhWBBeHsZe74g5TuWZMO5TGHrfW73ignU_NX0tkUl1cyT-oddKuvFJ00q1mdXr5_cU6Rznhcx9Vv6VkMYlPVbmz6hwBOT/s1600/IMG_6015.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1033" data-original-width="1033" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPanea5v8X8db3jj_10gqDrfVNveJ3I0AMR-coMZVNmS1w0rldhWBBeHsZe74g5TuWZMO5TGHrfW73ignU_NX0tkUl1cyT-oddKuvFJ00q1mdXr5_cU6Rznhcx9Vv6VkMYlPVbmz6hwBOT/s640/IMG_6015.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knipmode KM1803-12</td></tr>
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<a href="https://knipmode.nl/shop/patronen/top-liese/">This dolman sleeve top</a> from Knipmode March 2018 (available as pdf) more or less fit the bill. This type of top can look massive on me, but I liked the fact that the waist seam would probably provide a hint of waist definition. I cut center front on the fold and skipped the drawstring. The line drawing suggested extra length in the front, but the pictures of the finished garment showed that the front became shorter than the back when the drawstring was used. There was hardly any extra length in the front bodice so I figured I could use that scant centimeter to serve as a tiny built-in FBA.<br />
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I did my usual 1.5 cm low neck base adjustment, made the V neck 1.5 cm higher and added 4 cm to the hem.<br />
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I mentioned it was my first time working with scuba and I can safely say it'll be the last time as well. Pressing was a nightmare! Scuba is spongy and it was not easy to get a nice and sharp V, not even with the firm use of a clapper. But the biggest disappointment was that this fabric is rather prone to snagging. Luckily I was not yet aware of that fact during the first outing of this top.<br />
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The location of the party was so beautiful. We arrived at this dreamy forest (glad I wasn't wearing heels!)<br />
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After a short walk we reached an open spot with the entrance to one of the most fabulous gardens I've ever seen. A beautiful cutting garden, a maze formed by Verbena plants, a small open air theatre, stunning ponds, sculptures and a large glasshouse. The garden once was part of an estate that was destroyed during the 1944 Battle of Arnhem. Only the foundations of the large country house remained, and part of the garden walls. Fifteen years ago a group of volunteers started restoring the garden. They did an amazing job and created a peaceful oasis on what once was a battlefield in a region where many lost their lives during airborne landings and fights for strategic bridges.<br />
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One more picture of my new top with a gorgeous backdrop of magenta Phloxes.<br />
I always find it funny to see myself from the perspective of Mr Foxgloves, like I instantly shrink 8 inches!<br />
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It's been a long and wonderful summer, even though sewing was on the back burner.<br />
Now, with the garden set safely stored in the shed and the chimney sweep's job done I think it's time to officially declare the garden season over and snuggle up in my sewing room.<br />
Or? Even on the 10th of December there are still a few roses and marigolds in bloom, and I picked raspberries for lunch!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> December 10, 2018 chez Foxgloves</td></tr>
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-92090203623956195722018-12-05T15:40:00.002+01:002018-12-05T15:40:43.579+01:00A 4-in-1 remake roundup<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_uZiAyJQvSne9lgFsuLXtJqZWdPME7v43lQ5BKaGdu8Y9_Sm-jqMx8YRuM_s1Xwt8rrCb2dQvy9VB6HwDX2YdWEU2pzjyuex4SrNls6vN1NXovaD6Y3Hc1qUgcG4iJZXCrjz5jVVTxZyH/s1600/DSC_0070+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_uZiAyJQvSne9lgFsuLXtJqZWdPME7v43lQ5BKaGdu8Y9_Sm-jqMx8YRuM_s1Xwt8rrCb2dQvy9VB6HwDX2YdWEU2pzjyuex4SrNls6vN1NXovaD6Y3Hc1qUgcG4iJZXCrjz5jVVTxZyH/s640/DSC_0070+%25282%2529.JPG" width="638" /></a></div>
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I've always considered taking pictures to be the bottleneck when it came to creating new blog posts. Apparently that's not entirely true, as I've had these pictures waiting for ages. So, what kept me from blogging for so long? Honestly? I sewed myself to sleep!<br />
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It's not that I didn't sew at all in recent months. But my choices were boring, like I was sewing on automatic pilot. Once I realised what was happening I made a few changes that will have a positive impact on my sewing for the coming years, but that's a subject for another post. For now I do have a few of those boring things to share. After all I use this blog to keep track of what I made, and when, and for the sake of keeping it real I think it's best to document less inspired moments as well.<br />
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So let's get this out of the way!<br />
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In June I made a <a href="https://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/20-plantain-t-shirt-pattern.html">Deer and Doe Plantain</a>, a t-shirt that is fitted at the shoulders and flares at the hips. I had used the pattern a few times and wanted to recreate the look of one of <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2015/01/deer-and-doe-in-snow.html">my favourite versions</a> that I made in January 2015. That tee has been in heavy rotation since then and can no longer be worn in public as it's almost see-through now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSrExakQ5ylFDzbMoBZVsSXfghPKE_LYZvdWpxJ06BZARFW7Hs6MdHJUzifVALWpo8Ooo5bfgjb0FTPRjEUyrDR8WypmWFvYQhziYZmkcaYiCPb5E1f_uotjCC6nfyIsLakUeG548Q9fM/s1600/IMG_9079+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSrExakQ5ylFDzbMoBZVsSXfghPKE_LYZvdWpxJ06BZARFW7Hs6MdHJUzifVALWpo8Ooo5bfgjb0FTPRjEUyrDR8WypmWFvYQhziYZmkcaYiCPb5E1f_uotjCC6nfyIsLakUeG548Q9fM/s640/IMG_9079+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's a close up of the fabric. A sturdy textured knit, perhaps a bit too stiff do do justice to the flared hipline, but all in all a versatile garment that makes retiring its predecessor much easier.<br />
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Next: a refashioning project.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTSpFqZPCiJ5M-Fk8Q3bmB4BD9ul-8S0qkKx2Akz1cBpou3UMKJl4T0tmvGWRIl2_cMbqomvQZgI0GgsNXCx1-4a6mOSbt9mmLFW0VxY0WIruDIuEEUPFi4Vj91rzbryQmeTTj-1cuWIgY/s1600/IMG_9863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTSpFqZPCiJ5M-Fk8Q3bmB4BD9ul-8S0qkKx2Akz1cBpou3UMKJl4T0tmvGWRIl2_cMbqomvQZgI0GgsNXCx1-4a6mOSbt9mmLFW0VxY0WIruDIuEEUPFi4Vj91rzbryQmeTTj-1cuWIgY/s640/IMG_9863.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ConcordTShirt in the Portuguese mountains</td></tr>
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I'd been wanting to make a navy and white striped <a href="https://www.cashmerette.com/products/concord-tshirt-pdf-pattern">Cashmerette Concord T-shirt</a> but just couldn't find the right fabric. One day I discovered this monstrosity in the back of my closet:<br />
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A long forgotten RTW top with a neckline that would only look good when the ties were pulled so tight that the V ended up at belly button level. But the fabric was exactly what I had in mind and the top was tunic length, so plenty of fabric to play with. For a short moment I considered keeping as much of the top intact as I could, but I ended up taking it apart to start from scratch. The sewing was horrible! </div>
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RTW hem on the left, hand stiched hem on the right.<br />
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I cut off just enough from the bottom to create a neckband (navy on the outside, half white/half navy on the inside) and ended up with what turned out to be one of my favourite travel shirts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCxzBR7n7QsFyCYpcGJvMJdSe6CWS2L2CEojGf5tq0ltuPgsPVDUhfxxmTP2lrSs6FiHMtyrOUKyfxSTWCisyWe2dychv9f_CNwtQQ-1IAeOP0ak53Jcgo1beqV5EMpdvA4_gsk3mWFTK/s1600/BeFunky-collage+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCxzBR7n7QsFyCYpcGJvMJdSe6CWS2L2CEojGf5tq0ltuPgsPVDUhfxxmTP2lrSs6FiHMtyrOUKyfxSTWCisyWe2dychv9f_CNwtQQ-1IAeOP0ak53Jcgo1beqV5EMpdvA4_gsk3mWFTK/s640/BeFunky-collage+%25286%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Working with the Concord pattern reminded me of the time I used this pattern to make <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2016/10/a-concord-tee-nightgown.html">sleepwear</a>.<br />
Apparently our high summer temperatures were killing my creativity as not only did I use the same pattern, I used the same print again as well.<br />
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In order to prevent a total deja vu effect I used a different colourway of the fabric, drafted cap sleeves and used matching lingerie elastic not only to the neckline but also along the sleeves and hem.<br />
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The last remake of this summer is another Helen's Closet <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/blackwood-cardigan-pdf-pattern/">Blackwood cardigan</a>.<br />
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It was my fourth version of this pattern and I call it Murphy. Everything that could go wrong did go wrong. The fabric, a lovely cotton jersey, had a faded line down the middle. I was so happy to finally find the shade of pink I was looking for that I failed to notice this flaw. I managed to mostly work around this issue, only to discover later that there was barely enough stretch for this pattern. And it is wrinkling like crazy. Then, right in the middle of this project, my serger knife hit a pin so Murphy's insides looked wonky and frayed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYwUtJXfceL1gBWO-BCRHZCsZimTWWG7ijmS2TVZKfy1IpkXNW7dMIjTc_DDIUlOEV47QS2B75RRoScYQ6YlOxGdN1HJSNVoQHOP-HpdMs9oomqQfKKmxdatq3EUBIwKn0-1rnRz0xwpx/s1600/IMG_9691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYwUtJXfceL1gBWO-BCRHZCsZimTWWG7ijmS2TVZKfy1IpkXNW7dMIjTc_DDIUlOEV47QS2B75RRoScYQ6YlOxGdN1HJSNVoQHOP-HpdMs9oomqQfKKmxdatq3EUBIwKn0-1rnRz0xwpx/s640/IMG_9691.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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By this time the only thing that kept me going was that gorgeous pink.<br />
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When I first made <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2018/04/two-blackwood-cardigans.html">this floral Blackwood</a> I wasn't too happy with the horizontal seam hitting me at the widest part of my high hip. I considered making the band the same width as the front bands, but suspected the counterweight was needed for a correct hang. So I kept the band at the original width and added 7 cm length to the bodice. Guess what? That looked odd. When I asked Mr Foxgloves for his opinion, without mentioning the length issue, he took one glance, raised an eyebrow and said: 'That cardigan is either too long or too short.' I did not want to restart the now blunt and misbehaving serger so I simply folded the hem band over and hand stitched it to the seam, thus enclosing the frayed edges.<br />
Smaller hem band, same weight, shorter length. Still far from perfect, but much better.<br />
And pink :)<br />
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Next up: a few new patterns, sewing for men, Christmas dresses, a brand new sewing machine and exciting sewing plans.<br />
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Thanks for stopping by!<br />
<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-71991937451370914382018-09-18T22:33:00.000+02:002018-09-18T22:33:30.249+02:00Blackwood in Braga<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLyMj0wL3kFr7ByZDp2Ebh3WaoHMUWBicxwkEasoJfDazSF4cg9bRfApfpnwjkeq8BxiuobGQxDYXmWxp8Wd_WcKbxz90AhiNdNL_sFdqgu6gwcpfJp6sKkYCpNbpdp8DUe7RCNu1eEbl/s1600/IMG_0197+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLyMj0wL3kFr7ByZDp2Ebh3WaoHMUWBicxwkEasoJfDazSF4cg9bRfApfpnwjkeq8BxiuobGQxDYXmWxp8Wd_WcKbxz90AhiNdNL_sFdqgu6gwcpfJp6sKkYCpNbpdp8DUe7RCNu1eEbl/s640/IMG_0197+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This cardigan, here worn during our holiday in Portugal, is a top competitor for the title 'most worn garment of the year'. It's the long version of the Blackwood cardigan, made in a very lightweight rayon knit. The ideal garment for layering on an overcast day!<br />
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I'm sitting on one of the many balustrades of the baroque sanctuary Bom Jesus do Monte near the city of Braga.<br />
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Zigzag staircases are leading to a church on top of the hill. Pilgrims are encouraged to climb those steps on their knees! If you're not a pilgrim you can use a water balance funicular or go by foot, as we did.<br />
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Here I am posing in the bottom circle from the picture above.<br />
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But back to the sewing part!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxKJDNz17OvbjnIexYoJ9XZDVHNXJTIhHhewN3Ke47KrJGT-fDLcGAfWjZkhSUmk91GSXfGhG69cDpiQ0deMPMvkuS3jZ2JATUC6ijrsKeGp7ra-sttz_mrzhUA6jZznUBN0aR6cgzDkrA/s1600/blackwood-cardigan-illustration.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxKJDNz17OvbjnIexYoJ9XZDVHNXJTIhHhewN3Ke47KrJGT-fDLcGAfWjZkhSUmk91GSXfGhG69cDpiQ0deMPMvkuS3jZ2JATUC6ijrsKeGp7ra-sttz_mrzhUA6jZznUBN0aR6cgzDkrA/s320/blackwood-cardigan-illustration.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/blackwood-cardigan-pdf-pattern/">Helen's Closet Blackwood cardigan</a><br />
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I had made both the longer and the shorter version before so this time I could skip the fitting part. Not that fitting was hard the first time around. The only changes I made were shorting the sleeves by 6 cm (and I have long arms!), and omitting the pockets. I don't like pockets in knits and in this particular fabric even the weight of a museum ticket would probably distort the hang.<br />
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This cardigan is a very versatile addition to my wardrobe as it can easily be dressed up with a silk scarf and heels, can be worn over dresses as well as pants and the colour has chameleon style qualities. It looks very different and really fresh when paired with white.<br />
One of the best features is that it can be rolled up into a very small bundle. I'm tempted to sew a little drawstring bag as it can easily fit in my handbag.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMVNIBRdB8UmfmokyNwEr4jt5hd8l2OVEepiWpTxZiJB8H0E6v69BNDLQGZEI7WCx8cbvh9VqwZqeKOup8mU-nrn6f0zW8-8Mkm3b5ZKzYX4eNEfZp5jZ3F3cES6HT0hWBpYCmsO-61yK/s1600/BeFunky-collage+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMVNIBRdB8UmfmokyNwEr4jt5hd8l2OVEepiWpTxZiJB8H0E6v69BNDLQGZEI7WCx8cbvh9VqwZqeKOup8mU-nrn6f0zW8-8Mkm3b5ZKzYX4eNEfZp5jZ3F3cES6HT0hWBpYCmsO-61yK/s640/BeFunky-collage+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice accessory when flying to a different climate zone</td></tr>
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Just for the record, and because I can as mr Foxgloves patiently took the photos that are always out of focus when I take them with a remote, some pictures of the inside and the back:<br />
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More holiday outfits in pretty settings coming soon.<br />
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Happy sewing!</div>
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-4313720184727006132018-08-23T16:47:00.000+02:002018-08-23T17:11:38.576+02:00A peasant blouse in Porto<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Nothing like upcoming summer holidays to get me into planning and sewing mode! During spring and early summer I've sewn quite a few garments with our trip to Portugal in mind. I managed to take some in-progress shots and made construction and fitting notes but just couldn't find the time for shooting blog pictures. However, after going through our 1500+ holiday pictures I thought perhaps y'all would welcome a change from my boring old back drop and see some action shots instead!<br />
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First up is a Knipmode blouse from the supplement of the March issue (KM1803-103)<br />
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The fabric I used is a royal blue embroidered cotton lawn, known here as broderie anglaise.<br />
I used French seams and finished the neckline with a bias strip. For the ties I cut a strip on the straight grain from that particular 5 cm wide part of the fabric close to the selvedge that isn't embroidered. I figured this would make my ties more even.<br />
The sleeves originally were in one piece, with a tunnel for elastic just above the elbow. I cut the sleeve pattern right below that tunnel in order to make the lower part of the bell sleeves a little wider, without ending up with extra width in the upper arm.<br />
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The only other change I made was straightening the curved hem. I can't recall why I did that and I don't think it's an improvement. Maybe I had a plane to catch and made a shortcut?<br />
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Here's an action shot, taken right after we crossed the famous Ponte Dom Luis I, which is no sinecure for someone who suffers from fear of heights. The neckline may or may not have shifted while I was frantically clamping the railing with both hands....<br />
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Well, the view was worth it. And even better, we were now on the river bank where all the port houses are located. After tasting a few port wines that bridge didn't look half as scary!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicIlxm8C95m3JlKZuXYCEcijXtG-bszMgEmBQz8CfVPwkQBkks2c9QL655cO9pgWTRYSQupJCfJQGdhtphrBIC4ZIru2ujmcJlA3VNfz7v8YGj2jsm6cThdzBSNg4tzsvcSFAlgytIEX2y/s1600/Ramos+Pinto+BeFunky-collage+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicIlxm8C95m3JlKZuXYCEcijXtG-bszMgEmBQz8CfVPwkQBkks2c9QL655cO9pgWTRYSQupJCfJQGdhtphrBIC4ZIru2ujmcJlA3VNfz7v8YGj2jsm6cThdzBSNg4tzsvcSFAlgytIEX2y/s640/Ramos+Pinto+BeFunky-collage+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But I digress, we're here for the sewing. What's my verdict on this blouse?<br />
I like the colour.<br />
Anything else? Ehmm, nope.<br />
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It's not the pattern. Everything came together nicely, instructions were sparse but okay.<br />
It's not the fabric, which is lovely.<br />
The pairing of the two was less successful. The embroidery gives the fabric a firmer hand compared to regular cotton lawn and affects the drape. Together with the absence of shaping this results in a rather unflattering square silhouette.<br />
Maybe this blouse would look better when made in rayon or silk but I'm not volunteering to test that.<br />
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Here are a few more pictures, mostly to remind myself that I'm done sewing boxy tops.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghpYuwtnK1_PgSmtZ_pVzDhnmqi6VOPDYt5DLXWMpgqf9ecTZh2kUjboUOxHA2w3_A5NLnamUfwskZisINPU_RJIQLkPJQIa3Zr5ZYgKVy-CrXrlFifW__CjpmGUgeNnf35xAZm2uDWHA6/s1600/IMG_0533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghpYuwtnK1_PgSmtZ_pVzDhnmqi6VOPDYt5DLXWMpgqf9ecTZh2kUjboUOxHA2w3_A5NLnamUfwskZisINPU_RJIQLkPJQIa3Zr5ZYgKVy-CrXrlFifW__CjpmGUgeNnf35xAZm2uDWHA6/s640/IMG_0533.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I can't deny that the colour is a perfect match with the beautiful tiles in the Sao Bento train station, which is about the most positive thing I can come up with before I donate or refashion this wadder ;)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXzb4aPB40AWMEIz4ftXr6L0hCknkjhKQ3POQOzqWjKBFvxhgmSlKtcrEa1HjycDf8wO0-OtOpuZ__eBrinn4skwqje3AiDcwiivA9zhMDUaDZfHEk2aFp6zFc93TUA4Oro2c91qP4dE6o/s1600/IMG_0460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXzb4aPB40AWMEIz4ftXr6L0hCknkjhKQ3POQOzqWjKBFvxhgmSlKtcrEa1HjycDf8wO0-OtOpuZ__eBrinn4skwqje3AiDcwiivA9zhMDUaDZfHEk2aFp6zFc93TUA4Oro2c91qP4dE6o/s640/IMG_0460.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMf920qBqqY4lBsejjPVitpybXxXM6QdTgtTlm11DJfweBQqF7rFB7jBL5fvCUUvhRtbHuy3lNzvsMCka7aDmPuoY5vh0qMsQsEd368PThRjMqZ5qO_1_ikhdGN3IBsZElSkpIL4Dxd468/s1600/IMG_0469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="417" data-original-width="1600" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMf920qBqqY4lBsejjPVitpybXxXM6QdTgtTlm11DJfweBQqF7rFB7jBL5fvCUUvhRtbHuy3lNzvsMCka7aDmPuoY5vh0qMsQsEd368PThRjMqZ5qO_1_ikhdGN3IBsZElSkpIL4Dxd468/s640/IMG_0469.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Showing up <strike>one last time</strike> twice</td></tr>
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You can't win them all. At least the one and only day in the life of this top was a very good one!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-383680678010333332018-08-08T17:29:00.002+02:002018-08-08T19:15:10.830+02:00Heatwave sewing: a breezy Knipmode blouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi all! Although I vanished from the blogosphere during an unplanned two month hiatus everything is well and I have a lot of new sewing projects to document here.<br />
Soon after my previous post mr Foxgloves and I went on holiday to the north of Portugal. We had the best of times and we managed to take some blog pictures of freshly sewn summer wear in a few beautiful spots. Coming soon. The weather in Portugal was lovely and sunny, but much to our surprise we heard it was even warmer in The Netherlands. Turned out this was the start of an unprecedented heatwave. When we returned the garden desperately needed our attention and up till today we didn't get any rain. If you've ever experienced a Dutch summer you'll know how unusual that is. After nine weeks of drought with temperatures rising to 38 Celsius this picture sums up the state of our country rather well:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhac_j9BbOxeLSGkb5jdd49pvnzFsUcdAdj0qwIMW7KZWa1WEJJmyq0CgE1amGHs47nGlrZbkAH0JuIcosS21uQAVVenvHYeBJJie6kNeAaWCIpDb2LojpsPSms_r7w7_750JlA8jJ-_eqK/s1600/IMG_5725+%25282%2529.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhac_j9BbOxeLSGkb5jdd49pvnzFsUcdAdj0qwIMW7KZWa1WEJJmyq0CgE1amGHs47nGlrZbkAH0JuIcosS21uQAVVenvHYeBJJie6kNeAaWCIpDb2LojpsPSms_r7w7_750JlA8jJ-_eqK/s640/IMG_5725+%25282%2529.PNG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photocredits: De Telegraaf</td></tr>
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Our infra structure is designed for keeping the water out, keeping the water in is something else!</div>
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Amidst the struggle to keep the garden alive I felt the need to sew a lightweight cotton top to stay as cool as possible. I found this lovely floral and dots fabric (two prints in one, winner!) that almost feels like batiste. It has a lovely drape and I decided to pair it with <a href="https://knipmode.nl/shop/patronen/top-75/">this Knipmode pattern</a> that was on my to-sew list ever since I first saw it in August 2017.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFjjxSBQY00prOvYc5Wy17iTvKUAR6LNWNKSJG1Qb8mAPVeOKUR1NMxsCzfMm2M00ehde4ERDxZ4FflyTjL-hix1pmFFKbK3-5uPn72K9nO0sSATkKfPlgB_r8LQxUYa9GJE_7MbVbQIl/s1600/IMG_5732+%25282%2529.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1548" data-original-width="1352" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFjjxSBQY00prOvYc5Wy17iTvKUAR6LNWNKSJG1Qb8mAPVeOKUR1NMxsCzfMm2M00ehde4ERDxZ4FflyTjL-hix1pmFFKbK3-5uPn72K9nO0sSATkKfPlgB_r8LQxUYa9GJE_7MbVbQIl/s400/IMG_5732+%25282%2529.PNG" width="348" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KM1708-24</td></tr>
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Simple, but with a few nice details like the v-neck insert, a self lined back yoke and high/low hem.<br />
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Based on my high bust measurement I was in between size 46 and 48. I chose the smaller size, did my usual 1 inch FBA (which resulted in adding a side dart) and made a muslin which turned out too big at the bust. I pinned out all excess fabric and much to my surprise that equalled completely undoing the FBA and getting rid of the dart. Must have something to do with the release pleats coming from the shoulder and the loose fit in general. Okay then, taping the slashed pattern piece back together. Fine by me! The only other flat pattern adjustment I made was adding 2 cm length to both front and back. From there on it was easy sewing, even with a melted brain.</div>
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Not mentioned in the Knipmode instructions, but always a highlight: the burrito!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHj0VsFmPbvXjG25pqYDEj5Nl1g6xgg_eRAjzQ6w_Nrnklry8TLJ2twUCSUeON0dX20JAXNyu0yHj02Fpk5lfDl-FoYUHV4gFnZM4ZlpdBh2MGhEjhOhMejCx-zfl_EZv9DapvFBQ51JqC/s1600/IMG_0805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHj0VsFmPbvXjG25pqYDEj5Nl1g6xgg_eRAjzQ6w_Nrnklry8TLJ2twUCSUeON0dX20JAXNyu0yHj02Fpk5lfDl-FoYUHV4gFnZM4ZlpdBh2MGhEjhOhMejCx-zfl_EZv9DapvFBQ51JqC/s640/IMG_0805.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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My fabric perhaps wasn't the best choice for showing the details. I'm tempted make this top again in a solid crepe for autumn.</div>
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The shape is definitely more boxy than I usually prefer but it is a joy to wear on hot days. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSpmPo5lg3op6y97duzTl2K0KvMD-ZX_LaZuBzlt87-WeOZoHVBwTxApp1qmYbSsz784bnU49OWgQSbDdNUsTfKL0OHDFMlHlnT5LIlCdwwiQa1Huf78Sd_K9m5TV18VgP4N-0NPkZqd29/s1600/DSC_0093+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSpmPo5lg3op6y97duzTl2K0KvMD-ZX_LaZuBzlt87-WeOZoHVBwTxApp1qmYbSsz784bnU49OWgQSbDdNUsTfKL0OHDFMlHlnT5LIlCdwwiQa1Huf78Sd_K9m5TV18VgP4N-0NPkZqd29/s640/DSC_0093+%25282%2529.JPG" width="638" /></a></div>
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The back, showing the curved hemline.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpjwOQZFB4DMYK2cpbhF4sSWKz0a6kvuScg7bY3_8m7wjoyhUNkjixl0ZnhihwMI-ILBo2EDEMvPjH4yCAT8JsnudU6Q8ea4cSeipOFPEGywVG5dbyebeI-xnulzhyTjheWKujowBHpIq_/s1600/IMG_0800+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1180" data-original-width="1181" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpjwOQZFB4DMYK2cpbhF4sSWKz0a6kvuScg7bY3_8m7wjoyhUNkjixl0ZnhihwMI-ILBo2EDEMvPjH4yCAT8JsnudU6Q8ea4cSeipOFPEGywVG5dbyebeI-xnulzhyTjheWKujowBHpIq_/s640/IMG_0800+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And a close up of the back yoke and pleat.<br />
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One last picture of the blouse 'out in the wild' on a trip to Germany:<br />
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To everyone enduring a heatwave: keep it cool!<br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-1623382056912858772018-06-09T17:39:00.000+02:002019-02-02T14:30:57.447+01:00Roses all over: Vogue 8379<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfd86UmEHThg2XjEC3iO-L2xg7tvyFgjBurmfo7zl0o-57zAvNJwlI2F3D0XQvlEj95OVzHMWN4PWYjha2gl_M3H45wV0MdMqQDEjm8zvAzk9psYrdg6RiuxjXWXi3_B1PT7iJBO3VgavO/s1600/DSC_0050+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfd86UmEHThg2XjEC3iO-L2xg7tvyFgjBurmfo7zl0o-57zAvNJwlI2F3D0XQvlEj95OVzHMWN4PWYjha2gl_M3H45wV0MdMqQDEjm8zvAzk9psYrdg6RiuxjXWXi3_B1PT7iJBO3VgavO/s640/DSC_0050+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Around this time of year I often feel the urge to sew all the rose prints. This is probably triggered by my view from the breakfast table, which is so beautiful in June.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FdWpHccjeAG-OENVjHuo6728-IskOuISHf-yytaf-fWw-HgeZ9K8cUQWYqrpMB0KFSu3Wh7opX6HgM2juOmKOuNeFuMcBm2CIZMWzVEg49RVo0rn6cjbOq8Cy4VmfLQuzUoOmQaanruO/s1600/BeFunky-collage+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FdWpHccjeAG-OENVjHuo6728-IskOuISHf-yytaf-fWw-HgeZ9K8cUQWYqrpMB0KFSu3Wh7opX6HgM2juOmKOuNeFuMcBm2CIZMWzVEg49RVo0rn6cjbOq8Cy4VmfLQuzUoOmQaanruO/s640/BeFunky-collage+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View 2018 and 2015 (Knipmode top)<br />
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My most recent rose print summer garment is this <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2015/07/good-year-for-roses.html">Knipmode top</a>, made in 2015. The reason why it took me three years to add another rose covered outfit is that's it's quite a challenge to find a bright print with the right scale. As much as I like Liberty, Laura Ashley or Cath Kidston rose prints on others, they're just not working on me. Imagine my jump for joy when I discovered this (now sold out) large print in the online shop of <a href="https://www.stoffenbestellen.nl/en/">TST stoffen</a>:<br />
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Rayon jersey with a lovely drape meant the pattern was a no brainer: Vogue 8379. I've used this pattern before for four dresses and a top.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjij4vEhkpSvbP4ci-FrdNROF47KOKdJBRv_NZlKT0SS83R-pVJ2a8aLR9haTr8LLyv9VJ9pC-H0abhORUQtm7FyuJjaaaddZC0q1avDyYfJZwbqUIOHoksnVo9Ua4Oh1NVLyUTO4F4Lgz/s1600/v8379.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="514" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjij4vEhkpSvbP4ci-FrdNROF47KOKdJBRv_NZlKT0SS83R-pVJ2a8aLR9haTr8LLyv9VJ9pC-H0abhORUQtm7FyuJjaaaddZC0q1avDyYfJZwbqUIOHoksnVo9Ua4Oh1NVLyUTO4F4Lgz/s320/v8379.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
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This new wrap dress is basically the same as my <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.com/2016/02/vogue-8379-jungle-edition.html">jungle dress</a>.<br />
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Adjustments I've made to the pattern:<br />
* Lengthened the bodice by 2,5 cm<br />
* Used interfacing for the ties<br />
* Lengthened the ties by 25 cm<br />
* Omitted the facings. Turned under and stitched the seam allowances instead.<br />
* Left off the cuffs and shortened and slightly tapered the sleeves<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH6ze9MveCttAN4x4fmoZjtSlxKDSkieiN63zgJSU9-MAskG82CJyqzcuQ7A_Y7UUztwO7o1LTHBCHJvZQ2V2Sr8aD4Ue5_nweUA7VDESfLxeLNcbEcqr5sL7HX1UvxSbJ8hjCk98MO8Vu/s1600/DSC_0055+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH6ze9MveCttAN4x4fmoZjtSlxKDSkieiN63zgJSU9-MAskG82CJyqzcuQ7A_Y7UUztwO7o1LTHBCHJvZQ2V2Sr8aD4Ue5_nweUA7VDESfLxeLNcbEcqr5sL7HX1UvxSbJ8hjCk98MO8Vu/s640/DSC_0055+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm very happy with how this turned out. The ideal summer dress that rolls up to almost nothing in your suitcase!<br />
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Totally ready for summer!<br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-31706642801467115332018-05-14T22:57:00.002+02:002018-05-14T22:57:52.486+02:00Floral party in the back Concord <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4J4FY3FhG0Kosrxp8BrQQ4KzB9AR4acFgwiXJwIdtvIBM1FZpJcNCCuTPtVHkKMDLOVGTSep4dSAHfi_UQ0llzHxbSxP3tL44h9NnvocXFqX9pIdI42ST_1ISKSA8udMViV3zotxGSZR1/s1600/IMG_9024+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4J4FY3FhG0Kosrxp8BrQQ4KzB9AR4acFgwiXJwIdtvIBM1FZpJcNCCuTPtVHkKMDLOVGTSep4dSAHfi_UQ0llzHxbSxP3tL44h9NnvocXFqX9pIdI42ST_1ISKSA8udMViV3zotxGSZR1/s640/IMG_9024+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is my latest version of the Cashmerette Concord tee. I've lost count, but I've made this pattern at least a dozen times. Not bad, considering I was firmly in camp 'why sew a t-shirt if you can just as well buy one' for decades.<br />
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One of the many things I like about sewing is the planning stage. The hunt for the right fabric, deciding on a colour, finding notions and adding little details. Step by step the project that only existed in your head comes alive, resulting in a one of kind garment. For years I believed this approach was only worthwhile for special projects. Coats, evening wear, jackets. But once I started making t-shirts I was amazed by the number of design choices you could make for such a simple top.<br />
All Concord tees I've made have different necklines, lengths, and sleeves. I know find that picking fabric for something I know I will wear till it's worn out is even more fun than selecting fabric for a seldom worn special occasion dress. Long story short: once I started making my tees I've never looked back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbzqJfL14s670O3oLt7mou133H-oOd-A-1kTgnbxWS5tN6_MPRVYMoMeWZNeP6JT83QV3IbJMtdpdaxqU06wVdfCcLD9ZGMSFLHLwOS9nq7kYLpPP7Le_9CwKRGHi_uOfyx3whgF1T7yV/s1600/IMG_8906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbzqJfL14s670O3oLt7mou133H-oOd-A-1kTgnbxWS5tN6_MPRVYMoMeWZNeP6JT83QV3IbJMtdpdaxqU06wVdfCcLD9ZGMSFLHLwOS9nq7kYLpPP7Le_9CwKRGHi_uOfyx3whgF1T7yV/s640/IMG_8906.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fabric for my umpteenth Concord tee is a rayon jersey from <a href="https://www.stoffenbestellen.nl/nl/tst-stoffen/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw8HI94CG2wIVRPlRCh1PjAgdEAAYASAAEgICbvD_BwE">TST stoffen</a>, a Dutch online fabric shop. It has a lovely drape so I wanted to make a flared swing top, just like <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.nl/2017/10/the-last-of-summer-sewing.html">the blue one</a> I made last year. I kept the sleeves at elbow length because it turned out that's what gets the most wear during our rather unpredictable summers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9e5iQ6EufClCLyh3iFmOCUR1qBoZjzZKGBCOACUlA9a1nfXmk8M0viprVvSEih7Dv7pRWA5Eg70v81jF3dGfRsccvzZo7wNO4yJZ1450bJ6VRSptkMgYJ271ht-r_iy7jOp4KujGEPnlQ/s1600/IMG_8943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9e5iQ6EufClCLyh3iFmOCUR1qBoZjzZKGBCOACUlA9a1nfXmk8M0viprVvSEih7Dv7pRWA5Eg70v81jF3dGfRsccvzZo7wNO4yJZ1450bJ6VRSptkMgYJ271ht-r_iy7jOp4KujGEPnlQ/s640/IMG_8943.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Because the blue top is still going strong I didn't want to make an exact copy and I used every last bit of the leftovers to create ties for the back. When mr Foxgloves first saw my tee he said: 'Oh, nice.' And when I turned around he said: 'Oh! That's really, really nice!' So I guess the ties do indeed add a little interest.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-8OgPv7HfayW6vzcUqhLbf_m7Bxa6nk6EgwqO-J2D0zwk9yh6M8MTU2o_90rCUbHYiPAtw49v9gKPey_U3-v70DdDQQPWssVjkiyz5kj7SLerB4abzS_YGEImK2Y-giIoRkNL7qOrBD-/s1600/IMG_9028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-8OgPv7HfayW6vzcUqhLbf_m7Bxa6nk6EgwqO-J2D0zwk9yh6M8MTU2o_90rCUbHYiPAtw49v9gKPey_U3-v70DdDQQPWssVjkiyz5kj7SLerB4abzS_YGEImK2Y-giIoRkNL7qOrBD-/s640/IMG_9028.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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There's nothing more to tell that I haven't discussed previously when it comes to this <a href="https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/cashmerette-patterns/products/concord-tshirt-pdf-pattern">curve friendly pattern</a> that comes in cup sizes and has become a true wardrobe staple for me.<br />
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So I'll end with a few more pictures of the shirt taken out in the wild during a trip to Germany last week, starting with the obligatory Schnitzel und Bier moment.<br />
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That's the first of summer holiday sewing done.<br />
Till next time!<br />
<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-47604223248952200012018-05-13T22:02:00.002+02:002018-05-13T22:02:30.872+02:00Review Knipmode June 2018<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUWc-du8a_iagg8dOa6Cf7ohdmh4xzeZRA8ABZmxG1TdM-HLyo68N28mrImJf4ZmrL7pFrSNmoNV0vYjO1WGLfgwCWykYl0i7HPEIr-9FgeNhV5EhWw0DCDCpoj-28C6NVFng4r9i0SAgf/s1600/IMG_9071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1082" data-original-width="1082" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUWc-du8a_iagg8dOa6Cf7ohdmh4xzeZRA8ABZmxG1TdM-HLyo68N28mrImJf4ZmrL7pFrSNmoNV0vYjO1WGLfgwCWykYl0i7HPEIr-9FgeNhV5EhWw0DCDCpoj-28C6NVFng4r9i0SAgf/s640/IMG_9071.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Just a quick post for those of you interested in the contents of the Knipmode 6/2018 magazine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMt1aQAcuXYYz8k1Znnsldxqf7418BuPjvmH85AhVQkcwegS9plzUH2dmU7M7SQHfJ6w-z0F2sOdX8UbX_V6a90EsCY98eLbwkd8AdlMoZIFaOIljippphGmfuc7RYaHjEDg_mhFRvkGv/s1600/overzicht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1289" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMt1aQAcuXYYz8k1Znnsldxqf7418BuPjvmH85AhVQkcwegS9plzUH2dmU7M7SQHfJ6w-z0F2sOdX8UbX_V6a90EsCY98eLbwkd8AdlMoZIFaOIljippphGmfuc7RYaHjEDg_mhFRvkGv/s640/overzicht.jpg" width="514" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pattern overview Knipmode 6/2018</td></tr>
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The emphasis is on dresses. Many different styles and lengths, and, apart from a few exceptions, all necklines look very modest. Peter Pan collars, fully buttoned up shirt dresses and neck ties. No halter necks or strapless dresses for the beach, but if you're looking for an office approved summer dress there may be something in here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi33UxfLAvkK9hyphenhyphenNH30Iwgr4sTUZ-ixeggEp1gmJgaIEzb0A6RV16418PI110gViDe3ihSeTlO0wP1aihWX1ZgnRkLw_4azYa_iAsuZOrv4EYjlbibLFUrJcvAeJtEzb7p0PZ782qduVoO_/s1600/BeFunky-collage+jurken+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="990" data-original-width="1600" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi33UxfLAvkK9hyphenhyphenNH30Iwgr4sTUZ-ixeggEp1gmJgaIEzb0A6RV16418PI110gViDe3ihSeTlO0wP1aihWX1ZgnRkLw_4azYa_iAsuZOrv4EYjlbibLFUrJcvAeJtEzb7p0PZ782qduVoO_/s640/BeFunky-collage+jurken+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Dress 5 on the left doesn't exactly look like a summer dress to me, the autumn vibe we've seen in all spring Knipmode magazines this year is continuing. And so demure. Is that a fashion trend?<br />
Dress 15 (middle) is a combination of tunic 14 and skirt 16. Looks like separates, but the pieces are sewn together and have a long zipper at center back. Not sure why you would want to do that as those individual pieces would be much more versatile. (In the picture below you see the tunic on the left and the skirt on the right)<br />
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These garments are all part of a mix & match holiday wardrobe. The pants are a repeat of the same shapeless variety we've seen in previous magazines and I've seen better versions of a cold shoulder dress. But the cropped jeans jacket looks good, either paired with shorts or over a dress or jumpsuit on a chilly night. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mix & match holiday capsule</td></tr>
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Although it's not my usual style there is something about this month's designer dress (23) that makes me want to sew it immediately. With a v-neck perhaps.<br />
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These linen trousers (7) are also on my to-sew list. It's a simple pattern with a v-shaped yoke at the front, slash pockets and a side seam zipper. Not too many details so the focus will be fully on perfectioning the fit.<br />
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All in all I'll rate this issue as a useful one. The longer I look at it, the more I like it.<br />
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Happy sewing everyone!<br />
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<i style="background-color: white; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;">Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own. Photocredits: Knipmode. All pdf and paper patterns can be found at <a href="https://knipmode.nl/product-categorie/patronen/knipmode-nieuwste-patronen/">the Knipmode shop</a></i><br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-3974506781057288012018-04-25T12:36:00.000+02:002018-04-25T12:36:08.693+02:00Two Ottobre Design tops<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another finished duo! Lately I seem to be making my garments per two, not sure why? Maybe it's a sign that reality is starting to sink in. The combination of a long RTW fast, combined with my slow sewing pace, is now causing serious wardrobe gaps. Using a pattern that's already gone through the fitting process is considerately speeding things up.<br />
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This top started out as a Knipmode dress. That didn't work very well, to put it mildly The knit fabric was too clingy and the tiny print didn't do me any favours. It was both a matter of scale and colour. Up close I liked the mix of chocolate brown, turquoise and white. From a distance the overall colour looked rather muted and there were just too many mini daisies all over me in a knee length dress. The dress was out of sight until it resurfaced during a recent sewing room cleaning.<br />
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Before tossing the fabric I checked if it would go with any existing garment in my wardrobe. And it did! Dark brown linen trousers, brown Mabel skirt, white jeans and a turquoise RTW cardigan. This fabric could be turned into the missing link for three different outfits. I figured that as a layering piece the clingyness wouldn't bother me so much, extra colour could be added by the cardigan and the daisy overkill would be reduced to an acceptable level. Triple win!<br />
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The top is #9 from Ottobre Woman 2/2014. It's the only Ottobre magazine I own, and it was bought for the pattern of the <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.nl/2015/05/finished-coat.html">trench coat</a> I made three years ago. I always flip through the pages of new Ottobre issues but haven't bought any in the last four years. Too many hoodies, leggings and t-shirt dresses. The patterns may lack interesting details, the drafting does not! At a closer look this basic looking top came with a few surprises.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9rdY36tOdHxRHmIQ6PoEFulDM0HaQlQUO3KM5XfYKGXLm-qozjdjgmcDRliqKiQ-OsrA07tkAttUxkWCq8K_fitbQQNhq57zbiQe8CGXmjWT9kmKoIbYpZd-4IKS3cv9RKYzm08kicsqv/s1600/%2521cid_75B99B4E-511E-4835-9A3C-BB6DFAFBF0F3+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9rdY36tOdHxRHmIQ6PoEFulDM0HaQlQUO3KM5XfYKGXLm-qozjdjgmcDRliqKiQ-OsrA07tkAttUxkWCq8K_fitbQQNhq57zbiQe8CGXmjWT9kmKoIbYpZd-4IKS3cv9RKYzm08kicsqv/s640/%2521cid_75B99B4E-511E-4835-9A3C-BB6DFAFBF0F3+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The pattern is half lined. The lining ends just above the waist and the bottom is finished with clear elastic. For European sizes 44 and upwards there's a built in cheater FBA. The front bodice is slightly longer between the arrows to provide extra room for the bust. The extra fabric is gathered before sewing the side seams.<br />
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And it worked! No drag lines indicating a bigger FBA was needed. I really like the polished look of the neckline and armholes. No bands, no visible stitching.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside (back)</td></tr>
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I also made this top in white. Instead of the half lining I used a full length lining as I feared the end of the lining would be visible. Now I'm tempted to line all my tops as it feels so luxurious! With the half lining you still notice the button and belt loops of my jeans poking through, the full lining is more forgiving and smoothing out lumps and bumps.<br />
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As you can see I used off white for the lining as I had only just enough fabric for the outer shell. A good way to use up scraps. This top is waiting for warmer weather to be worn sleeveless with a bright floral skirt. But you have already seen me wear it my previous post, together with a Blackwood cardigan.<br />
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I can see myself make a few more of these tops. Maybe change the neckline to a square neck, sweetheart or any kind of neckline you won't be able to create with a neckband. I'm not a fan of facings in knit garments but I sure am a fan of lining from now on!Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-4494466602332347922018-04-16T11:41:00.000+02:002018-04-16T11:43:20.131+02:00Two Blackwood cardigans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0eywAjgVSx35ZVDBeOjD-l4moaQ1hWAy1NGKYZTi7adfIqAuvMPNRHeboEQJaNRRgRC_aBVX5dc24Js64fa1dslId0Vrajqll2j1wauSC1H49353FmSj_Ifgz5ZxI-juCNDzJ9AkcHUfA/s1600/DSC_0015+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0eywAjgVSx35ZVDBeOjD-l4moaQ1hWAy1NGKYZTi7adfIqAuvMPNRHeboEQJaNRRgRC_aBVX5dc24Js64fa1dslId0Vrajqll2j1wauSC1H49353FmSj_Ifgz5ZxI-juCNDzJ9AkcHUfA/s640/DSC_0015+%25282%2529.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>
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I don't know why it took me so long but I finally made my first Blackwood cardigan, immediately followed by the second version.<br />
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For those of you not familiar with the pattern, it's a PDF pattern, designed by Helen Wilkinson of Canadian pattern company Helen's Closet, and can be found <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/blackwood-cardigan-pdf-pattern/">here</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvLv7DPcFO4ldBzDZoIDRDldHnSbiLFgX6-ynWTDH_CMlZkW1kvdBXHUBhG2t6aJnVRieXuTd65HtyJbrDY3ajdYDhCqKxJ02BCCR8K6rzwJiPFTjdeiDaO_hq83DGADs3koMQIYFRS416/s1600/blackwood-cardigan-illustration.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvLv7DPcFO4ldBzDZoIDRDldHnSbiLFgX6-ynWTDH_CMlZkW1kvdBXHUBhG2t6aJnVRieXuTd65HtyJbrDY3ajdYDhCqKxJ02BCCR8K6rzwJiPFTjdeiDaO_hq83DGADs3koMQIYFRS416/s640/blackwood-cardigan-illustration.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blackwood cardigan</td></tr>
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<i><span style="color: #626262; font-family: "open sans"; font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: 0.26px;">The Blackwood Cardigan is a cozy and versatile addition to your wardrobe. Designed with layering in mind, it has minimal excess fabric in the front and a close fit around the neck and shoulders. Its fitted shape and extra long sleeves make it perfect for wearing under jackets and vests, while also looking stylish over tank tops and dresses. View B ends at the hips, while View A extends down to the mid-thigh and includes patch pockets at hand level.</span><span class="Apple-converted-space" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #626262; font-family: "open sans"; font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: 0.26px; transition-duration: 0s; transition-timing-function: ease-in-out;"> </span><span style="color: #626262; font-family: "open sans"; font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: 0.26px;">The Blackwood is intended to be worn open and is not designed to close at the front.</span></i><br />
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Actually now that I'm writing this blog post I can suddenly see why I wasn't convinced by the looks of this cardigan when it first came out. I don't like those extra long sleeves (reminds me of ill fitting RTW) and I hate pockets in knitwear. When the Blackwood first popped up on blogs and Instagram everyone seemed to be raving about the features that I knew would make me look frumpy.<br />
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After a few less than stellar results with the popular <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/62689">M6844</a> cardigan pattern (not yet blogged) I took another look at the Blackwood and decided to give it a go. Without pockets of course, and with considerably shorter sleeves.<br />
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I had an end-of-the-bolt piece of wool knit, just enough for the shorter version (view B). It's a good thing I shortened the sleeves by 6 cm, otherwise I would have ran out of fabric.<br />
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I love how this pattern came together. The shoulder fit was so much better straight out of the envelope than I ever achieved with the McCall's pattern, despite making several adjustments. I like the overall length of the cardigan and the cuffs are a nice way to finish the sleeves.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDJf7cSoCh_NgflKgWhsBybxkILMSPXJV1hGjAnbliD_E7DiCTbQXVP7U88jlJPvcsyine3E9pnkGpLsEo_SFrDz4kT5_Ioo-IEU148A7SwpXv8xrHPvrSospcZ1IUDKQD1BFQrennV1u/s1600/DSC_0012+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1194" data-original-width="1194" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDJf7cSoCh_NgflKgWhsBybxkILMSPXJV1hGjAnbliD_E7DiCTbQXVP7U88jlJPvcsyine3E9pnkGpLsEo_SFrDz4kT5_Ioo-IEU148A7SwpXv8xrHPvrSospcZ1IUDKQD1BFQrennV1u/s640/DSC_0012+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The only thing I will change when I make this view again is the width of the hem band. I'm just not fond of that horizontal line across the high hip, which unfortunately highlights my widest part. I'll make the hem band the same width as the front band and add extra length to the bodice to compensate.<br />
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While the pattern was still on my sewing table I decided to have a go at view A as well.<br />
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This time the fabric was a rather lightweight wool/rayon knit. I kept the hem band at the original width, thinking the hang would benefit from the extra weight. In fact I do like the wide band on the longer version.<br />
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Now that's my kind of outfit! Ames jeans, Concord Tee and a colourful cardigan.<br />
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I equally love both lengths of this pattern but I prefer the look of a plain cardigan/print tee over the print cardigan/plain tee. It took me a while to find my perfect cardigan pattern but nothing will keep me from sewing a rainbow of Blackwoods now!<br />
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<br />Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9173179849477212303.post-74126617875990597912018-04-12T15:16:00.000+02:002018-04-12T15:26:29.072+02:00Review Knipmode May 2018<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Bamm! Another 25 sewing patterns and 1 knitting pattern just landed on my doormat. I can hardly keep up writing these reviews, let alone keep up with the sewing! Although Knipmode made the latter easier by producing a few boring issues in a row. Let's see what this magazine brings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Pw0VaW4q8_RaDnfqqfB1gNls6UyWvuueYh0cFFdTiQFpqmAUeytEaIDwbQUXlx_9XchxdU1P5jnPMjgv-3D3PIQ0mS6lYeVipB-b78eeYEtj9jsnqK5sRJmgSjp2iinEsoJTmE6KlbWZ/s1600/IMG_5587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1263" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Pw0VaW4q8_RaDnfqqfB1gNls6UyWvuueYh0cFFdTiQFpqmAUeytEaIDwbQUXlx_9XchxdU1P5jnPMjgv-3D3PIQ0mS6lYeVipB-b78eeYEtj9jsnqK5sRJmgSjp2iinEsoJTmE6KlbWZ/s640/IMG_5587.JPG" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pattern overview Knipmode May 2018</td></tr>
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For a mid- to late spring collection again a lot of long sleeves. And just like last month, many drawstrings and belts to suggest shape in otherwise shapeless patterns. But the overall vibe is certainly less depressing and a wider range of colours, prints and shapes makes this edition definitely more interesting than its predecessor.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXbEpo1-8ETJ15F33yhBnmrNjF0FAOCRw3DPfpiTvv4Sr9yNZF227haAyOruy9LkrKAZBQS7FcApI4ed95TkUlcOHm4TPr8TUdzHNTKi-cXPRbsex2iR89tPknBWiLQ6_DbDOioTgXeXq/s1600/IMG_5564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXbEpo1-8ETJ15F33yhBnmrNjF0FAOCRw3DPfpiTvv4Sr9yNZF227haAyOruy9LkrKAZBQS7FcApI4ed95TkUlcOHm4TPr8TUdzHNTKi-cXPRbsex2iR89tPknBWiLQ6_DbDOioTgXeXq/s640/IMG_5564.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress 7, Jacket 1 and pants 3, tunic 15 (a long shirt with attached wrap)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTY7bztywzUbquX6i6CHFLrc6Mt9Ex9EeWWZcan1sETXNTKJ0If4COtkP3dhg3ZPyp_2t51SBBLlw0aKWiYAY-x6GVd8zpDAhefv9-PD7c66hOkijvaBGH-lnuZjwfYzUx0FMZNia6nonQ/s1600/IMG_5565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTY7bztywzUbquX6i6CHFLrc6Mt9Ex9EeWWZcan1sETXNTKJ0If4COtkP3dhg3ZPyp_2t51SBBLlw0aKWiYAY-x6GVd8zpDAhefv9-PD7c66hOkijvaBGH-lnuZjwfYzUx0FMZNia6nonQ/s640/IMG_5565.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three versions of the same easy pattern, (22, 21 and 20) </td></tr>
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Quite different looks and styles. I like how the belts completely hide the elasticized waists.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfMtkkZi7oWQaVQJwH9skumdoKu9DoSnq4VByph0t6unEKdgJrt8pj9hsVOG_UvrOWuQ9Zh3E2s4ykeYpVwbGT1-nwnYZWsBYXhrRMknJLOOqC0xHQUNTC0hnnKfSSKoG4ZQamcwqONQs-/s1600/IMG_5563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1281" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfMtkkZi7oWQaVQJwH9skumdoKu9DoSnq4VByph0t6unEKdgJrt8pj9hsVOG_UvrOWuQ9Zh3E2s4ykeYpVwbGT1-nwnYZWsBYXhrRMknJLOOqC0xHQUNTC0hnnKfSSKoG4ZQamcwqONQs-/s640/IMG_5563.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress 23</td></tr>
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May's designer dress is a flowy knit dress with piping along the yokes and belt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZNAy5k38mS3tCX4Tx6KH_4PTOAMW0_6LA0ne130lUyrly9ELLS1P9ja9Vaz-VGgrp7PWG0tWVF6bzY-zXJpCdtQ129gHUTCxPqugIDQZ3PFoazWEWslCcMos5_v_01tu-2-oWqsX37DO/s1600/IMG_5562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZNAy5k38mS3tCX4Tx6KH_4PTOAMW0_6LA0ne130lUyrly9ELLS1P9ja9Vaz-VGgrp7PWG0tWVF6bzY-zXJpCdtQ129gHUTCxPqugIDQZ3PFoazWEWslCcMos5_v_01tu-2-oWqsX37DO/s640/IMG_5562.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coat 17, culottes 10, maxi dress 8</td></tr>
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I hope I'm not offending anyone with plans to sew is this yellow coat, but it's a strong contender for the 'Monstrosity of the Month' title. Please prove me wrong!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRFnTCGG5aGSB00NymoEvv_9adDvs38KYpm0r1HjQ8byUH3hN5Z9ttu7jEwZCGpGRKd029ggHpgBrTf_cx5Vh867NT0Cg5dJwo9g_0aW538Ia9kssjwGyRC2Q-Y82DRHGdIIEp_7V7E6au/s1600/BeFunky+Collage+plooien.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="990" data-original-width="1600" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRFnTCGG5aGSB00NymoEvv_9adDvs38KYpm0r1HjQ8byUH3hN5Z9ttu7jEwZCGpGRKd029ggHpgBrTf_cx5Vh867NT0Cg5dJwo9g_0aW538Ia9kssjwGyRC2Q-Y82DRHGdIIEp_7V7E6au/s640/BeFunky+Collage+plooien.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coat 17, jacket 18, pants 4</td></tr>
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Nope. Not getting any better in close-up, and imagine how long it takes to dry after a spring shower with all those pleats! It does look much better as a short jacket. It's not just the shorter length that improves the proportions. The neckline and cuffed sleeves also create a more polished look that goes well will the slim capri pants.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdSMHF3Bj24rUlYqF5Sam7VLb0NKqnvzmcC1jTV_GED1ppu6EobiPulU4EtdkYm5PhTpyTZ1gTd5ddeeD0QSjYpT-QovnIAi6g1WtFTkcfVVgBdBWfasbTcpIamnnAHN7Ayv2vkh5O5YgR/s1600/BeFunky+Collage+rok.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1486" data-original-width="1600" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdSMHF3Bj24rUlYqF5Sam7VLb0NKqnvzmcC1jTV_GED1ppu6EobiPulU4EtdkYm5PhTpyTZ1gTd5ddeeD0QSjYpT-QovnIAi6g1WtFTkcfVVgBdBWfasbTcpIamnnAHN7Ayv2vkh5O5YgR/s640/BeFunky+Collage+rok.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skirt 19</td></tr>
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I had to blink a few times when I first noticed the plaid skirt. Really, Knipmode? 'Let's turn the bottom part of that yellow coat into a skirt! It would be a shame to only use those awesome pockets once!' But okay, if you're into the style I can see how it works in satin with a good drape.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87610-vWENA9LTPOyvYo0GrJt6aaeON-ZOIbHsW2JlGO0Qt00pmjptIrqO2eLZcTz9C1ZprC7Gj76TgrtYjSIvXj3LsTCt-ySO6O7cUT5PFv0IlhTv_CcYOF-8hsbFukgQBbTxEtsXR4t/s1600/BeFunky+Collage+bloes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="742" data-original-width="1600" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87610-vWENA9LTPOyvYo0GrJt6aaeON-ZOIbHsW2JlGO0Qt00pmjptIrqO2eLZcTz9C1ZprC7Gj76TgrtYjSIvXj3LsTCt-ySO6O7cUT5PFv0IlhTv_CcYOF-8hsbFukgQBbTxEtsXR4t/s640/BeFunky+Collage+bloes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four versions of blouse 24</td></tr>
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From crispy white cotton to drapey olive green rayon, these pictures highlight the effect of the fabric on the overall look. A nice and versatile shirt pattern. I'll put this on my to-sew list to compare this to <a href="http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.nl/2018/04/mccalls-6436-shirt-in-rayon-crepe.html">the M6436 shirt</a> I posted last week. I like the slimmer sleeves and it's interesting to see if my usual FBA ends up with a less gigantic dart.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIQNJJ1LcoFBlM1djxX3RfaS-nF7Bjq3XYUJm8g05TUZ4XAKw8jERU_dGlwjlJxBZmLmJk-anptF8LY2cjrNzn03wFQdqRk0Nch99affPhqs4_rCNs8tsLV4cWiDZEUxtsprdWD7XYZqJM/s1600/BeFunky+Collage+jurk+recht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1486" data-original-width="1600" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIQNJJ1LcoFBlM1djxX3RfaS-nF7Bjq3XYUJm8g05TUZ4XAKw8jERU_dGlwjlJxBZmLmJk-anptF8LY2cjrNzn03wFQdqRk0Nch99affPhqs4_rCNs8tsLV4cWiDZEUxtsprdWD7XYZqJM/s640/BeFunky+Collage+jurk+recht.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress 5</td></tr>
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Interesting seam lines! Six darts in the bodice, four in the skirt and one in the sleeve cap. Nice!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqv7fksxlvNsE0umNwxNwG6wpik0kRJzKyemJgPMzyVzxZvRUVJp9aDt5TMgxH-QDq7UWjUkS_wa82i_jQ69CVi3lkQwcPE-AINyPnrFQf_8Vu4JY3emjYCuoJi9jcGGFdfkbGK3vALFa/s1600/BeFunky+Collage+jurk+wijd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="990" data-original-width="1600" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqv7fksxlvNsE0umNwxNwG6wpik0kRJzKyemJgPMzyVzxZvRUVJp9aDt5TMgxH-QDq7UWjUkS_wa82i_jQ69CVi3lkQwcPE-AINyPnrFQf_8Vu4JY3emjYCuoJi9jcGGFdfkbGK3vALFa/s640/BeFunky+Collage+jurk+wijd.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress 6</td></tr>
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Same bodice with a pleated skirt in a lovely mix of fabrics. The pleating looks different from the line drawing, check the unfortunate placement of that pleat on top of the models hip! </div>
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Well, overall not an earth shaking collection, but at least a few patterns that I consider making.</div>
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And now for the latest Knipmode news: remember how back in January the editors announced changing the pattern nomenclature from unique number code to female names? And we wondered how long this silliness would last? Now we know: four months. Back to numbers it is.</div>
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In other news, chief editor Peggy Weyergang will retire in July. It will be interesting to see whether the new editor has a background in fashion, publishing or marketing and whether or not she/he has affinity with sewing. More on that later when the new chief editor is announced.</div>
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<i style="background-color: white; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;">Disclaimer: this review contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own. All patterns are available as PDF over at <a href="https://knipmode.nl/product-categorie/patronen/">the Knipmode shop</a> </i><i style="background-color: white; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"> Photocredits: Knipmode.</i><br />
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Mariannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.com9